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  #1  
Old 04-04-2010
K Ridley K Ridley is offline
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Default FC plumbing project

I was out in my coach today tidying up from the last project and looking at starting my new project this coming week. I have some before pictures I took today and will keep pictures coming throughout the project. The project consists of installing a tankless water heater, a reverse osmosis drinking water system, replacing the old copper tubing with pex tubing and fittings, new kitchen and bathroom faucets, and an outside hose bib probably by the propane tank. I am looking forward to tearing into this project however cutting a hole in the side of the bus for the tankless heater is a bit intimidating. Well I'll keep you all informed how it progresses.
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Old 04-04-2010
CEE CEE is offline
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I have been thinking "tankless" too

There are small ones that would safely mount outside high above the kitchen side and only add the the coaches width a 4-8 inches

All the plumbing including propane could run behind the microwave oven.

I hate depending on shore power for hot water
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2010
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Out of curiosity, how much A/C power do the gas tankless water heaters draw and are you going to power it via an inverter?
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Old 04-05-2010
K Ridley K Ridley is offline
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The tankless heater control runs off the 12v DC system so there is no need to run it off the inverter.

This unit mounts in the side of the coach. I wouldn't want to add anything to the width of the Bird, especially something that has propane running to it.
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Old 04-05-2010
mynavion mynavion is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K Ridley View Post
The tankless heater control runs off the 12v DC system so there is no need to run it off the inverter.

This unit mounts in the side of the coach. I wouldn't want to add anything to the width of the Bird, especially something that has propane running to it.

I would be curious of the draw of such a unit. Generating heat with 12V seems to me like high current load? What would this do in the case of dry camping and your batteries? Everyone's tastes are different but I like the motoraid feature of the original water heater and when dry camping I run the generator once a day which helps with reheating the water heater.....
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Old 04-05-2010
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Heat for the water is produced by propane, only controls are run from 12V.
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Old 04-05-2010
mynavion mynavion is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crit Bliss View Post
Heat for the water is produced by propane, only controls are run from 12V.
Oh yeah, I knew that.
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2010
CEE CEE is offline
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You can get a propane safety valve that shuts off everything if there is a gas leak.

We use tankless heaters in Europe for many years. They are safe as long as you use your head.

Bosch has a model that uses a turbine to ignite the propane....

The small camping units have battery ignition.

My thought was to put it high up so added width is a 'non-issue' In most cases units don't stick out as far as the mirrors.

These units are simple and reliable. We have used them for 20 years in places we lived.

Indoor use is possible but they must be well vented (power vent) AND a carbon menoxide detector is necessary.
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2010
K Ridley K Ridley is offline
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Well I'm a week into the project and so far I've removed all of the old plumbing and started to install the new pex. The removal of the old plumbing was a little harder than I'd expected because the fittings seemed to be corroded together. I guess 30 years will do that. There were a few fittings that I couldn't get loose and had to use the trusty hacksaw to get the tubing out. I have a couple of pictures with the plumbing out. I went ahead and removed the front of the street side bed as I am converting that to a double (after the plumbing of course) and I thought it would be easier if I didn't have to stand on my head.
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2010
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Ed Wimberley Ed Wimberley is offline
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Kevin
Tough job will be much better when FINISHED then you can start on something else. I like the lighted magnifing see-em-better eyeball compensation tool.
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