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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 07-08-2017
Dog Leg Bill Dog Leg Bill is offline
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Default microwave removal 1984 PT

Since I need to pull my microwave and either replace or repair it I have read all the old threads I could find on the subject. None seem to discuss my bird's particular setup. I have both cruise air and a brewmatic coffee maker which seems to be keeping me from getting the stainless surround off so I can wade through the asbestos to get at the screws holding the oven in from underneath. I can clearly see there are 4 bolts coming up into the unit from below and none from the top. Any suggestions on how to get the stainless piece around the oven loose?
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2017
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most are screwed and held from the bottom, then it slides out, no need to remove the stainless, tight fit and heavy,
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Old 07-09-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dog Leg Bill View Post
Since I need to pull my microwave and either replace or repair it I have read all the old threads I could find on the subject. None seem to discuss my bird's particular setup. I have both cruise air and a brewmatic coffee maker which seems to be keeping me from getting the stainless surround off so I can wade through the asbestos to get at the screws holding the oven in from underneath. I can clearly see there are 4 bolts coming up into the unit from below and none from the top. Any suggestions on how to get the stainless piece around the oven loose?
It's been so long ago that I can’t really offer any pointers for removing the stainless steel case other than to confirm that the stainless steel case around the microwave in my 84 ½ PT-36 did have to be removed in order to remove the bolts going up through the bottom of the microwave.

I’m not sure it would work but have you considered drilling access holes through the bottom of the stainless steel case with a conduit hole saw or similar tool in order to gain access to the bolt heads? You could plug the holes when you’re finished. It might require several hole saws, a good respirator and a hazmat suit.
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1991 40' WLWB-WTB
Body Number F095567
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1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001

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Old 07-09-2017
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is online now
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Like John,i had the mic out of an 84,but it was years ago,and like John,i remember having to remove the stainless cover,but i did not have the coffee maker in mine.
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Old 07-09-2017
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On my FC it was a puzzle, but eventually I got all the pieces off. I had to remove the upper cabinet part to actually get the oven out as it was squeezed in with no wiggle room. Take off the front edge trim and the stainless slides out. I also had to remove the stainless from the side wall so I didn't destroy it sliding the oven out. But mine was an FC so yours might be a little different.

I am not sure, but the insulation may be asbestos so spray it with hairspray to keep the fibers from getting in the air, wear a mask.
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Last edited by gcyeaw; 07-09-2017 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 07-09-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
On my FC it was a puzzle, but eventually I got all the pieces off. I had to remove the upper cabinet part to actually get the oven out as it was squeezed in with no wiggle room. Take off the front edge trim and the stainless slides out. I also had to remove the stainless from the side wall so I didn't destroy it sliding the oven out. But mine was an FC so yours might be a little different.

I am not sure, but the insulation may be asbestos so spray it with hairspray to keep the fibers from getting in the air, wear a mask.
Thanks Gardner... That looks familiar. Another one of those "what were they thinking" designs...
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John Wyatt
Titusville, Florida
1991 40' WLWB-WTB
Body Number F095567
My Location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user1.cfm?user=4

1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001

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Old 07-09-2017
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I should also mention the long screws holding the angled part of the rear stainless piece need to come out and loosen the rest so it pulls away from the bottom of the main stainless cover.
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86 PT-36 Golden Memories (sold)
83FC35 SB $IXTEEN TON$ SOLD
78 FC 33 Happinest (Sold)
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Old 07-09-2017
Dog Leg Bill Dog Leg Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
I’m not sure it would work but have you considered drilling access holes through the bottom of the stainless steel case with a conduit hole saw or similar tool in order to gain access to the bolt heads? You could plug the holes when you’re finished. It might require several hole saws, a good respirator and a hazmat suit.
This may be the route I take. The cabinets above and just forward of the unit are stuffed to the gills with Cruise Air ducting, adding to the dismantling duties. Fours holes from underneath capped with round pop in stainless sink hole covers sounds clean and provides easy access in the future if needed. Thanks for all the answers guys. I will post pictures whatever route I take.
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Old 07-09-2017
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good luck drilling the stainless steel.
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  #10  
Old 07-09-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
good luck drilling the stainless steel.
Due to a screw-up by the fab shop, I had to hand drill dozens of holes through the 16 gauge 304 stainless steel tail light panels that we've been having made.

Slow and easy... I use sharp drills at low RPM to try to keep the cutting edge cool (water, oil, tapping compound, etc helps) - if you let the stainless get too hot it hardens, the drill dulls and stops cutting.
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John Wyatt
Titusville, Florida
1991 40' WLWB-WTB
Body Number F095567
My Location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user1.cfm?user=4

1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001

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