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  #901  
Old 09-14-2019
Randy Dupree's Avatar
Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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I have been thinking of this,since Butch had so many issues trying to fix his fan issue.
I think this is a viable mod.
Document it well please!
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2000 LXI 43
Bainbridge,Ga.
Port St Joe Fl.
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  #902  
Old 09-14-2019
ChrisRasman ChrisRasman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badandy View Post
I'm good with toroids, just pointing out that marked difference is all. Good luck with the estate, that's never a good time. My shop is still overflowing with ****, I need to get through it all one of these days.
****, my wife says I have too much in the house. So the new garage, we are already in 'deep' conversation on how much room (and it's tight) she can have and how I am going to get all my stuff out to it too. My hope is I have enough room to work on the coach. Plan right now is to keep one side open so I can turn it around to work on both sides, one at a time lol. But I tempt fate talking about it since we have a long way to go till the coach has a roof over it's head.
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2003 Wanderlodge 40LX
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  #903  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Butch Charpentier Butch Charpentier is offline
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I'd like to see pictures of that mod. with the fan motor and controls if possible.
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  #904  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Andy wants to use the PWM,Pulse Width Modulator.
But you could use the Wax valve to make the fan spin.
Andys a geek,he can program the PWM to come in with low temp and increase as the temp goes up.
A "soft" start if you will.
You would need new hoses,a PWM (like we have on the LXI) and a fan motor.
I think (since i'm not a geek) i would use the Wax valve to turn the fan on and then use the overide like the LX uses for the when you want to use the dash air,or to run the fan by switching on at the dash switch.
The wiring for that is already in place and connected to the existing valve (that butch was working on).
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2000 LXI 43
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Port St Joe Fl.
www.buybyebluebird.com

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  #905  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
ChrisRasman ChrisRasman is online now
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Way to go Andy. I am slowly fighting my way (with the county) to that shop I talked about. They make things so hard. I get that up, I will spending some long days and night with my coach.
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  #906  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
badandy badandy is offline
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The S60 coaches' DDEC directly regulates the fan speed and no other inputs are active on their Danfoss box. If you turn the A/C on the switch is connected to the DDEC, which increases the duty cycle to the Danfoss and speeds up the fan to whatever is programmed in the DDEC, not the Danfoss. The Danfoss PWM control is just sitting there being dumb, really.

The Danfoss module can be had with many hardware inputs and I can reprogram it to do with them as I please. I can connect a temp sensor directly to the Danfoss module and program it to run the fan speed proportional to temperature automatically. I can also configure one of the additional inputs to take the A/C request (mine doesn't need this), and also another one for the override switch.

The way this is supposed to work is you warm up to thermostat temp (170 for me) so they open, then at maybe 175 or 180 you start the fan up slowly. If I program the Danfoss to maintain 175 it will speed up or slow down the fan constantly to keep it dead on 175. It will fluctuate a few degrees, sure. You want to keep the thermostats open and flowing all the time and use the fan to regulate the temperature once you're at operating temp.

In theory I can also spin the fan faster than it did from the factory for more cooling, but I don't know how the fan blade will respond to this. I think the new setup can do 2500 rpm vs 1800 stock iirc.

I'm not going to tear anything apart until after WOG, but I will document it and it should be easy to replicate.
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  #907  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badandy View Post
The S60 coaches' DDEC directly regulates the fan speed and no other inputs are active on their Danfoss box. If you turn the A/C on the switch is connected to the DDEC, which increases the duty cycle to the Danfoss and speeds up the fan to whatever is programmed in the DDEC, not the Danfoss. The Danfoss PWM control is just sitting there being dumb, really.

The Danfoss module can be had with many hardware inputs and I can reprogram it to do with them as I please. I can connect a temp sensor directly to the Danfoss module and program it to run the fan speed proportional to temperature automatically. I can also configure one of the additional inputs to take the A/C request (mine doesn't need this), and also another one for the override switch.

The way this is supposed to work is you warm up to thermostat temp (170 for me) so they open, then at maybe 175 or 180 you start the fan up slowly. If I program the Danfoss to maintain 175 it will speed up or slow down the fan constantly to keep it dead on 175. It will fluctuate a few degrees, sure. You want to keep the thermostats open and flowing all the time and use the fan to regulate the temperature once you're at operating temp.

In theory I can also spin the fan faster than it did from the factory for more cooling, but I don't know how the fan blade will respond to this. I think the new setup can do 2500 rpm vs 1800 stock iirc.

I'm not going to tear anything apart until after WOG, but I will document it and it should be easy to replicate.
Yeah,what he said!
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2000 LXI 43
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  #908  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Butch Charpentier Butch Charpentier is offline
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A quick aside, the Danfoss solenoid I worked on is back in the coach and working perfectly so far. I've got about 500 miles on it.
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  #909  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butch Charpentier View Post
A quick aside, the Danfoss solenoid I worked on is back in the coach and working perfectly so far. I've got about 500 miles on it.
Good to hear,thanks.
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2000 LXI 43
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www.buybyebluebird.com

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  #910  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
badandy badandy is offline
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Got these and a bag of tiny parts to solder on. Then I have some programming to do. This one will all be written in C, but shouldn't be too hard to do. One box should do both the grey and black tanks and then one more for the fresh water. It's about time I got these done.
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