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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #11  
Old 03-02-2020
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Good Ole Bird Good Ole Bird is offline
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The non ducted air distribution unit with "ratcheting side vents" is garbage on the new Brisk Air units...


I blocked off the side vents and built a deflector into the unit where the air was forced straight down causing very loud buffeting. The results were night and day; still loud though but a much smoother sound that's much easier on the ears...
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2020
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Dennis:


Your forklift and big step ladder sure make for a neat setup. Did you custom make the step ladder?


Timothy
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  #13  
Old 03-02-2020
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Does Rare Bird have a generator? (I'm probably off-topic)

What a strange little bus
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1988 FC-35SB 300HP/ZF (2016-current)
1978 GMC Royale 26' (2015-2016)
1982 FC-33SB 250HP (2007-2009)
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2020
Bruce Bruce is offline
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To the OP: Nice thread and especially a description and part#'s for all the components. Very thoughtful. More posters should follow this model.
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kunzelj View Post
Does Rare Bird have a generator? (I'm probably off-topic)

What a strange little bus
I think rare bird is set up like a traditional round headlight FC with the generator curbside. The interior layout matches older side bath FCs.
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  #16  
Old 03-02-2020
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DFB052686 DFB052686 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
To the OP: Nice thread and especially a description and part#'s for all the components. Very thoughtful. More posters should follow this model.
Thanks! I know it sometimes takes a bit of in-depth searching to find part #'s related to things I've researched, so its meant to ease the difficulty for everyone, myself included in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsdevane View Post
Dennis:
Your forklift and big step ladder sure make for a neat setup. Did you custom make the step ladder?
Timothy
I bought the ladder used surplus from some private company online locally, I did modify it to have the pass through on the top for roof access to maintain the birds and I guess maybe other stuff? the forklift is a tiny 2500# CAP model. it's perfect for the type of heavy work I do, without being a huge 10,000lbs dead weight forklift. this setup makes it *possible* for me to do the heavy and/or high up work, not simply convenient

**one strained or injured muscle, one accident -AVOIDED- totally pays for the used forklift, rolling ladder, modifications, and storage considerations imho...**

Quote:
Originally Posted by kunzelj View Post
Does Rare Bird have a generator? (I'm probably off-topic)

What a strange little bus
It is indeed a clone of the older FC35, albeit with a nice light color scheme, and two less closets.

It has the factory Kohler 7.5KW Gasoline in a slide out tray (similar in type and operation to the larger kohler diesel), the tray is actually much smaller than the 35' type. and in addition to not being as "low" it also has nothing under it, the locking mechanism is built into the outside door of the tray with a removable square key. i like the drawer much better in the rare bird. but not a fan of the so far inoperable generator, cleaning it up and getting new gas into the system is on the list of maintenance items.



if embedded video's aren't allowed, link: https://youtu.be/xmk_AM5L8Ew
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-Dennis (direct email please! dennis@wanderlodgeowner.com)
Hesperia, California

1987 FC31 “A Rare Bird”
(300HP 3208TA/ZF)

1983 FC35SB
(225HP 3208T/MT643/Jacobs Retarder/Cruisair

Towables:
2007 Grand Cherokee CRD
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2020
Kb1jkn Kb1jkn is offline
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The air slide out is pretty slick.......
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  #18  
Old 03-05-2020
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Default Generator initial Dust off

I cleaned up the Kohler Gas 7.5KW generator drawer yesterday, replaced its extremely poor condition battery with a new AGM.

Haven't replaced anything else yet, however took a bunch of stuff apart blind, cleaned contacts etc in an effort to get the genset to:
  1. Start
  2. THEN stay running after switch was let go
  3. THEN get voltage down to normal levels/stable

here's the result. (keep in mind, still need to replace fluids, filters, plugs, hoses. I simply checked and topped them all off for now)


at the end of the video, at shut down there is a rattling noise, anyone here familiar with it? as the engine slows to a stop. nothing is interfering externally, I am thinking maybe a bearing in the fan or other?
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-Dennis (direct email please! dennis@wanderlodgeowner.com)
Hesperia, California

1987 FC31 “A Rare Bird”
(300HP 3208TA/ZF)

1983 FC35SB
(225HP 3208T/MT643/Jacobs Retarder/Cruisair

Towables:
2007 Grand Cherokee CRD
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  #19  
Old 03-05-2020
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Sure sounds like it could be the fan...maybe it's hitting somthing when it slows down ??


Can you check for endplay ??
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  #20  
Old 03-09-2020
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Default Water system Check... NO Water.

Got into the water system checks over the last couple days, slow going, life in the way of endless bird repair work...

A Rare Bird was obviously (and luckily/lovingly?) winterized in Utah, had antifreeze everywhere there should be.

but after the past I have an abundance of caution: I pulled the cabinet back boards, shelves, bed, etc. and panels around all the plumbing and checked at all over, no obvious leaking, no stains, dust and cobwebs = GREAT!

plug a hose in with new gaskets, after cleaning out the 58th hornet nest from another orifice of the bus.

have friend man the hose quick disconnect, explain the tank fill switch, and I set about inside watching for leaks with open windows, full pressure, no leaks. still great. OK!! no water pressure of note at faucet... still hear water rushing in, figure it is filling the water heater, nope it's pouring from the WH Drain port onto the ground... whistler valve stuck OPEN... get a ball valve, and associated parts on way home the next day, because I had played the game before... decide to take some silicone lube to old valve and clean it and see if its fixable. to my surprise; just like new, praise to the better quality water of wherever this bus filled in the last 30 years!!

back to testing while away, turn on fill tank switch, fill tank, unhook, drive bus home. no good pressure from faucet, check everything; pump is cycling continuously, I (stupidly in retrospect) assumed the pump was faulty and replaced the shurflo with a seaflo new pump I had on the shelf. and guess what guys... same thing! get on the WOG, find literally everything I could ever need to know.

I am very sad that I missed the possible opportunity to thank John Finn in person for all the help he was to me and, I suspect, most other WL owners everywhere. RIP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iamflagman View Post
Joe,

Like you have found out the tank fill switch has to be turned OFF for the tank to stop filling, this turns off the Sporlan fill valve, then as has been advised the water should come from the commercial water source. If this doesn't work, with the commercial water source turned on, try exercising the Sporlan valve by turning the water fill switch on and then off repeatedly, as there may be some residue build up in the valve itself that is causing it to stay open. If this doesn't resolve the issue, the Sporlan valve may need rebuilding, or just cleaned. Here is directions on cleaning the Sporlan valves, from my notes, make sure that all water pressure sources are turned off before doing this. I'm sorry I don't have the name of the person that originally posted this;

I have experienced what you describe. Remedy is...place some rags around
the Sporlan valve, strip a rag so it can be inserted into the Sporlan
inlet water line after the top of the valve is removed (keeps the water
from running in for the most part). Remove the top of the Sporlan
valve, insert the rag, clean out the valve(white scale stuff), scrape
the rubber bladder (lightly) to remove the white scale. Then reinstall
all the parts in reverse order. This takes no more than 15 minutes.
Repeat the filling and pumping procedure. Also see SporlanExploded.jpg

Make sure that you have an additional water pressure regulator inline,

http://www.tweetys.com/index.asp?Pag...D&ProdID=11177
like this one that is attached at the water tap to ensure that the commercial water pressure does not exceed the allowable pressure that the 'Birds system can accept, most of them are pre-set around 50-60 pounds of water pressure. There should be one already built into the system, very close to the water hookup on the inside of the coach, but being placed in there in 1987, I wouldn't trust it myself.

I always just fill my tanks and then use the onboard water tanks and pump to exercises it, as if it isn't used, down the road when you really need it, it may not work. By using the onboard tanks you ensure that you will always have fresh water in them, rather than filling them to use only in an emergency. This may not satisfy the water pressure that one feels that they need for that blasting shower, but it also saves on water, when dry camping. There are also newer style water pumps that can supply a greater demand, while still keeping the pressure at a reduced rate, that you can replace the original pump with.
and this indispensable addition from Randy:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
The sporlan valve has a small hole in the rubber diaphram,that hole gets plugged with stuff,use a small wire or something to clean that hole out and you will be fine.
I actually took the valve completely apart, cleaned it, put it back and it made no difference, until i cleaned that little hole. now its perfect. the only thing left to do now is find a screw to attach the sporlan electramajig to the valve body. (the single top center one)**anyone know what thread it is?** fine something.
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-Dennis (direct email please! dennis@wanderlodgeowner.com)
Hesperia, California

1987 FC31 “A Rare Bird”
(300HP 3208TA/ZF)

1983 FC35SB
(225HP 3208T/MT643/Jacobs Retarder/Cruisair

Towables:
2007 Grand Cherokee CRD
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