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Caterpillar 3208 Solutions This sub-forum is hosted by Mike Hohnstein who has been at this kind of thing for 50+ years now, guess I'm addicted. The saga has been all about progressively larger shop space since then. Honestly, never wanted to get into the CAT 3208's that were originally considered to be a throwaway engine but that's all that works in a FC in my world. Same thing with my Ford toter, that came with a NA, too much effort to hang in a 6, so been at it with the CAT V-8 for 20 years now. In reality you can get excellent life out of a CAT 3208 if it's built correctly. Post your questions about the CAT 3208 engines here and Mike will try to help you out.

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  #11  
Old 07-17-2019
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Can be a gallon low and not in the danger zone.
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  #12  
Old 07-17-2019
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I agree with the sheriff- half way up without adding till oil change.

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  #13  
Old 07-17-2019
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What you describe sounds like my former troubles, I was blowing about 1/2 per 100 miles or so. When I was parked oil was dripping everywhere at any stop I made while on the road. It never burnt oil it was just blowing it out at the failed seal, right behind the starter. I had a main housing seal failure. It required dropping the front axle and pulling the transmission. Once pulled the rear engine plate was remove, cleaned and resealed. It is not a shade tree job I can assure you. While my transmission was out I took it to Colmar and had it speced & checked prior to reinstall. If memory serve me there have been a couple other folks who had the same issue with their 3208. Lack of use is a demon...
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  #14  
Old 07-31-2019
globetrottin globetrottin is offline
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Default Repairs are happening

Busy shop got the FC in on Monday. They determined that the source of the leak was the gasket between the block and bell housing. New gasket, rear main seal, anything else they see that can be replaced while they are in there will be done. Hopefully next week we will be back on the road. This engine has 100k miles and shop sees no reason to expect less than another hundred thousand if we keep oil changed and regular maintenance. The best guess for this job is $3500 labor and under $500 parts. Not fun or expected but we will be back on the road soon. Dropping axle and oil pan and trans is a lot of work- not stuff I could have done myself. We didn’t cancel our planned trips even with bus down for repair. I can confirm after 10 nights in a tent that tent camping has not gotten any more fun or comfortable in the past few years. I want my bus!
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  #15  
Old 07-31-2019
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What is the labor rate at your shop? At $100 per hour that is only 35 hours. You should be prepared for a much higher invoice.
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  #16  
Old 08-07-2019
globetrottin globetrottin is offline
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Default An update

The shop owner called with an update. He says they broke a couple seized steel-into-aluminum bolts and “welded them out.” That's the faster and better way than drilling them out, he tells me.
He noticed the hole in my exhaust pipe that I had bolted a sleeve on to cover it last year. I told him I didn't want to disassemble the exhaust for a little hole and he says "well, it's disassembled now and sitting in my shop." He will cut out that section and weld in a new segment.
He is flushing out the ZF since he says the fluid looks murky...and putting in new transynd fluid. I had done the ZF filter and fluid change last year but he agrees that you aren't really replacing all of the fluid when you just drain it from the bottom... he will get it all out and fill with new.
He is also fixing the thermostat so the Horton fan doesn’t run full time.
He said there were no surprises and no reason to think we won't have another 100,000 miles at least to enjoy the drivetrain. The transmission goes back in today and all buttoned up in a day or two. Total service charge is still unknown.
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  #17  
Old 08-07-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by globetrottin View Post
The shop owner called with an update. He says they broke a couple seized steel-into-aluminum bolts and “welded them out.” That's the faster and better way than drilling them out, he tells me.
He noticed the hole in my exhaust pipe that I had bolted a sleeve on to cover it last year. I told him I didn't want to disassemble the exhaust for a little hole and he says "well, it's disassembled now and sitting in my shop." He will cut out that section and weld in a new segment.
He is flushing out the ZF since he says the fluid looks murky...and putting in new transynd fluid. I had done the ZF filter and fluid change last year but he agrees that you aren't really replacing all of the fluid when you just drain it from the bottom... he will get it all out and fill with new.
He is also fixing the thermostat so the Horton fan doesn’t run full time.
He said there were no surprises and no reason to think we won't have another 100,000 miles at least to enjoy the drivetrain. The transmission goes back in today and all buttoned up in a day or two. Total service charge is still unknown.

welding out broken bolts is the way i do it.
But it seems hes taking libertys with other work,or maybe i misunderstood.
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2019
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He's doing it right, doesn't want it coming back ever. HOWEVER, I'd suggest you tell him save the syn trans oil and fill with 10/30 or 15/40 engine oil, really.
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  #19  
Old 08-07-2019
flyingjunebugs flyingjunebugs is offline
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Default ZF trans oil.

Hi, Now Mike is far more learned on Automatic Transmissions than I am. But will give out what I did with my ZF.
See what you Folks think.
Per my reading, the ZF engineers designed it for world wide use and variety of oils.
So in my “Blue box”, could see where previous owner used Ford “F” automatic transmission fluid.
So went with fresh Ford F ATF on my trans oil and filer change.
My ZF is rated at 500 hp max, my CAT is 300 hp, so it is not working even near to its limits, nice.
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  #20  
Old 08-07-2019
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Back in the day dogma was type F was superior due to heat resistance, however after a few years of rebuilding racing Power Glide transmissions, it became obvious that Dexron offered superior lubricity. I was replacing front pumps annually for the type F guys, not so much for the guys using Dexron. Read a SFI paper a while later that confirmed that. I doubt there's any good old type F around anymore, and wouldn't recommend using it for anything.
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