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Caterpillar 3208 Solutions This sub-forum is hosted by Mike Hohnstein who has been at this kind of thing for 50+ years now, guess I'm addicted. The saga has been all about progressively larger shop space since then. Honestly, never wanted to get into the CAT 3208's that were originally considered to be a throwaway engine but that's all that works in a FC in my world. Same thing with my Ford toter, that came with a NA, too much effort to hang in a 6, so been at it with the CAT V-8 for 20 years now. In reality you can get excellent life out of a CAT 3208 if it's built correctly. Post your questions about the CAT 3208 engines here and Mike will try to help you out.

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  #41  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Dieselbird01's Avatar
Dieselbird01 Dieselbird01 is offline
John Wyatt – Administrator/Moderator
 
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I can’t say whether or not you have an engine problem but if this is the coach that I think it is, you might want to double check that the TPS cable is properly connected to the throttle linkage and is working as it should. Also try to make sure that the transmission retarder is not trying to hold the coach back at the same time the throttle is being pushed. I believe those two things caused the coach I’m thinking of to bog down on a couple of occasions yet run fine the rest of the time.
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  #42  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
waterweber waterweber is offline
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John, it is the coach your thinking of. I knew it was a risk picking it up and was prepared for issues, paid accordingly. I told my wife that we either got a smoking deal or totally F++++D. LOL

Here's the current status:

*Its not the retarder or the kick down. Checked those, tested the retarder settings when it drove and pretty quickly could tell how it works and when it was working.
*Shift points seem right, RPMs seem right just no power and no boost. High EGTs under load due to the fact you have to have the thing floored to get anywhere.'
*CAC is an intercooler FYI. Tested all intake piping with no leaks.
*Fulled a few of the injectors and adapters this weekend (4 on trans side of engine)), Adapters seemed fine and flowed air.. Injectors looked ****** on the tips, to be expected i guess though.
*Tested compression on the cylinders i can get to. Had one that held air pretty good, as would be expected. One other seem to have a lot of blow by. The other 2 were in between. Made sure i wasnt in valve overlap.
*Smoke tested the cylinders i compression tested. No smoke on the good one, Smoke in the crack case on the bad one. Not much on the in between 2.

Here are my thoughts: Comment as you see fit.

*The engine needs to come out regardless. I'm not willing to do much more work with it in the coach. Its just too confined in there.
* Once its out I can do a better compression check and go through everything in more detail if I want to.

*I believe this engine has a ton of blow by on several of the cylinders, not bad enough to cause it to run terribly yet, but enough that I'm loosing boost and power every time I'm on one of those cylinders. I think this is likely due to the previous owner / owners repeatedly overheating it. I don't think the guy i bought it from knew anything about what EGTs were and in my opinion should never have owned something like this. Totally unprepared knowledge wise and financially. That being said I knew what I was getting into and took the risk.

I'm inclined to do one of 2 things:

1. Get a rebuilt 3208 that i know will produce full power. If it comes with an IP I will turn it up a bit or I will have the IP on mine rebuilt and turned up a bit. I have a Powershot propane injection system that was going to go in my diesel landcrusier that I don't really need there. Thinking i would drop that in there to give me a little help on the grades out west.
What are my option for a rebuilt 3208? Anyone have suggestions? Mike?
I don't want to rebuild my engine myself, just dont want to spend my time on that.

2. Do a swap to a newer Cummins / trans setup in the 400hp range. I've done this type of thing before (4bt cummins in a 93LC) so I have the tools and skills to do it just not sure i want to spend the time on it. If i went this route i would be looking for at least an engine trans combo and preferably the whole setup out of something similar. Any recommendation on where to go to to find used power plants out of RVs?
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  #43  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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Over heating warps the head/block surfaces, causes head gasket failure. 3208 will run 300k miles no problem if not subjected to excessive RPM or overheating. 3208 is a relatively simple engine as far as diesels go, you should be able to find a rebuilder in CA that can supply the service your engine needs, once it get pulled out and set on the floor. On the other hand if you've done some engine work and read a micrometer and a bore gage, have at it.
2000 bucks will get you into a quality Interstate/McBee 3 ring over haul kit. +.030 pistons, rod and main inserts and all required gaskets.
http://interstate-mcbee.com/diesel-engine-parts.aspx
3208 is a pretty fair engine, much easier to fix on what you have over a retrofit. Do some research, there's got to be a machine shop locally that's familiar with the engine.
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  #44  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
waterweber waterweber is offline
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Thanks Mike. I will give you a call.
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  #45  
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Steelwheels Steelwheels is offline
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What temperature is considered overheated ?

Does a hot turbo, pyrometer temp cause a overheating situation that warps heads or just dangerous for the turbo ?
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  #46  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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220 water, 1050 egt, yes, yes.
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  #47  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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I have a engine and trans out of an M380,400hp Cummins,6 speed allison.
and rearend too.
We can make you a deal on all of it.
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