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  #1  
Old 07-31-2010
iamflagman's Avatar
iamflagman iamflagman is offline
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Default Radiator Mister System

I thought that we had discussed this before here on the forum, but I couldn't find it, so it may have been discussed on the old Yahoo forum.

This was a modification that I did back in 2007 and I have changed it some since then.
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AFTER TESTING OUT WEST I MOVED AND RE-AIMED THE ATOMIZERS ACROSS THE RADIATOR, BUT IT WOULD BE BETTER WITH TWO MORE SETS ADDED
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THE HAYDEN RAPID COOL MISTER KIT IS PART #100 I PURCHASED IT FROM ADVANCE AUTO PARTS FOR $85.00 INCLUDING TAX. THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE KIT ARE NOT VERY THOROUGH, BUT I MANAGED TO GET IT TO WORK WITH A FEW MODIFICATIONS, IN ORDER TO MAKE IT CLEAR THE GRILL AND USE EXISTING BOLTS FOR THE MOUNTS. A PERSON COULD MAKE A SIMILAR KIT BY USING A WINDSHIELD WASHER KIT FROM A CAR OR A PICKUP, A FEW FEET OF WIRE AND PLASTIC TUBING, BUT THE RESERVOIR WOULDN’T BE AS LARGE AND THE PUMP POSSIBLY WOULDN’T CREATE AS MUCH PRESSURE. I HAVE NO RESULTS OF THE PERFORMANCE OF THE KIT IN REDUCING RADIATOR WATER TEMPERATURE, BUT I WILL GET TO TRY IT OUT DURING MY UPCOMING TRIP TO THE MOUNTAIN STATES OUT WEST AND I WILL THEN POST RESULTS ON THE FORUM.
YOU CAN FIND MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS KIT BY GOING TO THE HAYDEN WEB SITE AT;
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http://www.haydenauto.com/New%20Prod...m/Content.aspx
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Here is an excerpt from my Blog back in 2007 which was my first test of this radiator Mister system;
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Quote:
http://iamflagman.blogspot.com/2007_06_01_archive.html .........until we got up over 4000 feet and then that was when I could notice a loss of power in my non-turbocharged Caterpillar 3208NA diesel engine, that only has 210 horsepower but over 600 foot pounds of torque, it may not be very fast on the hills, but it is a steady puller and some of the long steadily climbing hills over 5000 feet in elevation had me down to 30-35 mph top speed in second and third gear, but it didn’t get too hot, thanks to the fan override switch that I very seldom had to use.

I had installed a radiator mister kit to spray water onto the front of the radiator to help cool it down, but I’m finding that it makes very little difference in temperature when I use it, as it only has four jets for water flow and I believe that it needs a lot more than that to effectively get enough water onto the radiator to make a difference. The other thing is there is very little difference between where the thermostats open on a Caterpillar 3208NA at 195 degrees and where the over heating range starts at 220 degrees and on my gauge the engine normally runs at 200 degrees on a 95 degree ambient temperature day.
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It was after this trip that I changed the position of the atomizers, but that didn't make much difference either, then Mike Hohnstein sent me this information about his Radiator Mister system;
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Quote:
I do mountains every summer, solved the problem with a spray bar. Spray bar can
be supplied by house water or dedicated "better" system using distilled water.
The spray bar I use is 1/4" copper tube with .040" holes on 2" centers.
Dedicated system can be supplied with a windshield washer pump.
Mike Hohnstein
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That summer trip in 2007 was the last time I needed to use this system, but I have now gone to the spray bar like Mike uses and will be able to test it next year when I head west to race on the Bonneville Salt Flats in September, I'm sure that I will be able to use it then.



While the Mister did make some difference on the trip to Bonneville in 2011, it doesn't do as good as I had expected. I think that Mike has his system plumbed into his house water tank and uses the house water pump for the supply, this would pump much more water than the windshield washer pump that comes with the kit.


I know that there are some of you members out there that have used a system similar to this, so please let us know what you are using and how it performs for you.
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  #2  
Old 07-31-2010
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Default

When I first picked up my coach and experienced 'hot running' problems, I considered setting up a misting system -- especially after I heard that the tour busses running from LA to Las Vegas almost all have one.

But after replacing and upgrading the radiator core, I discovered that the coach maintained 180 degree coolant under almost all operating conditions and only rarely climbed to 190. So a mist system became a very low priority. Indeed, the "cooling need" had shifted to the oil temperature (but it usually "hung" at 230 degrees on steep mountain grades). I only would pull over for a cool down if the oil temp started to go above 230 (although the engine manual claimed an operating temperature of 200 to 250 degrees).

I didn't have to pull off much.

I can't say that the FCs might not need a misting system for heavy grades or high ambient temperatures out west -- but the S-60 in the 95 seemed to have adequate cooling with (essentially) the stock system (although the new radiator core was described as "more efficient").

I admit not driving through New Mexico or Arizona during the peak temperatures in July/August ... but that's just common sense.
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  #3  
Old 07-31-2010
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Pete,
Let's see, new radiator core $2000, misting kit $85, Hmmmm
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  #4  
Old 07-31-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
Pete,
Let's see, new radiator core $2000, misting kit $85, Hmmmm

Gardner,

New radiator core $2000, new 60 series (installed) 20,000 (give or take).
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  #5  
Old 07-31-2010
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I dont think the misters work by cooling the radiator with water. I think they work by cooling the air and the cooler air has more result with removing heat from the radiator.
for the mister to cool the air, relative humidity must be low. if the air is saturated ,no cooling of the air that is sent through the radiator takes place.
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  #6  
Old 07-31-2010
davidmbrady
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Show me a Series-60 radiator core for $2000.00 and I'll take it. Mine cost $3500.00. Ouch!
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  #7  
Old 07-31-2010
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I mentioned this in another thread somewhere too. Check out parts/pieces, etc. from your local farm store. Us farmers use spray atomizers all the time (Roundup, etc.) and you can pick and choose standardized nozzles, tubing, 12v pumps, etc. and match the flow and pressure all the way out the spray tip.

And you can even pick how small the water droplets will be, etc. You can make a couple gallons of water go a long, long, way by selecting a spray tip that atomizes enough for wide distribution on the radiator, but not so much flowrate as to waste water by using too much.

If your dripping water, or even if it gets behind the radiator, your using too much water and can get the same cooling with less flow.
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  #8  
Old 08-02-2010
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peteaeonix peteaeonix is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmbrady View Post
Show me a Series-60 radiator core for $2000.00 and I'll take it. Mine cost $3500.00. Ouch!
When I replaced my core, it cost only about $1000. The R&R (Labor) part cost another $2800. (Some other work brought the bill up to about $4500...)

Still, it was a good purchase and proved to be a major peace of mind against a $20,000 engine rebuild.

The point of my earlier post is that a mister may be simply treating a symptom. It's better to look for an underlying problem -- then, if none is found, it may be appropriate to install a mister.

The info about tour busses running misters on the route between LA-Las Vegas is not because those vehicles are in need of radiator maintenance -- but rather that they run hot and heavy across some of the hottest desert terrain in the country. The engine/radiators are "spec'd" for generally cooler conditions, so the supplemental cooling effect of the mister is a practical solution to protecting the cooling system.

We have similar tour buses that travel from the SF Bay Area to Reno or Lake Tahoe -- and, as far as I'm aware, they do not regularly use misters on that run. While its usually rather warm crossing the Sacramento valley (in summer) it cools down significantly once they start gaining altitude crossing the Sierras. So the cooling system is under less stress.
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  #9  
Old 08-02-2010
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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I built a system for use while testing fire pumpers. When a fire engine travels to a fire the air rushing through the radiator is enough to cool it but when it is stationary at a fire, you need some help on really hot days. The system I used sprayed highly atomised water into the radiator and would bring the temp down fast! Back in the day when the drivers used to be aptly called "stationary engineers" they had a valve on the pump control panel called "Radiator Fill" that would put water back in the radiator when it blew off the pressure cap. Kinda like they do in NASCAR, just introducing cool water back into the system to replace what had turned to steam. Testing pumpers took place in the hottest part of the summer so the system was set up and turned on before an engine would overheat. On 3208 turbo motors if you didn't help them they would blow a head gasket. The radiators on all these vehicles had been specced with a standard radiator for a cabover Ford. The custom trucks with V6 and V8 92 Detroit power stayed alot cooler but the radiators were two or three times as thick. A detroit makes power every stroke so a thick radiator is needed to cool the extra power stroke.
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