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Generators In this forum we will try to answer any of your questions about the different model generators that can be found on Blue Bird coach's.

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  #21  
Old 08-11-2015
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Originally Posted by Ed Wimberley View Post
Gardner
Great price !! Our new PowerTech did not come with a control box had to mount old box to new head. Did get new voltage regulator mounted inside box just like old one.
My old Perkins I think rotates clockwise ???? Fairly sure but not positive.
I sent a note to them about relocating the control box, cause it would hit the frame. They responded with another head, with an even taller box. I will try to find out what the issue is, but if it can't be moved it won't work.
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  #22  
Old 08-12-2015
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Gardner
I assisted John Stiles in his generator replacement, we were required to modify his box ,but it would have been possible to relocate IF a spot was open to place it. We figured it was easier to modify box than stretch wiring.and water proof/protect.
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  #23  
Old 08-12-2015
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The latest suggestion from Stamford was a French unit, but even with the drawing I send showing the frame clearance the one they suggested is too tall. And I don't want something no one has ever heard of, if it krumps how do you get parts.

Got a price from Marathon, just under $2300, add 6% for shipping. But it will fit, and I am sure the old rear mounts can be adapted fairly easily. Just gotta think about it
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2015
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Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
Still undecided, like the Marathon (tight fit), nervous about the CGG units quality (dependability)
Gardner, for what it's worth, I haven't found any quality issues with the CGG generator. They have met all American, British and International standards. When I took the Kohler off, I was surprised at how tight the flex plates fit into the recess in the Yanmar flywheel. I thought at the time that if the CGG was one thousandth of an inch off it wasn't going to fit. The new ones fit exactly. I'm not sure about the connection with Stamford, but it came with a very nice Stamford manual and some of the parts, including the voltage regulator, have Stamford part numbers. I have 60 hours on it now and like it much better than the Kohler. It runs smoother and regulates better. JMHO.
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2015
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Originally Posted by alvahall View Post
Gardner, for what it's worth, I haven't found any quality issues with the CGG generator. They have met all American, British and International standards. When I took the Kohler off, I was surprised at how tight the flex plates fit into the recess in the Yanmar flywheel. I thought at the time that if the CGG was one thousandth of an inch off it wasn't going to fit. The new ones fit exactly. I'm not sure about the connection with Stamford, but it came with a very nice Stamford manual and some of the parts, including the voltage regulator, have Stamford part numbers. I have 60 hours on it now and like it much better than the Kohler. It runs smoother and regulates better. JMHO.
John
Could very well be the smartest way to go. I've graduated to looking at a used Onan quiet gen (10 KW) for a lot more money. I must be nuts!

I am assuming you needed to take the Kohler rotor off before getting to the flex plate bolts, right?
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  #26  
Old 08-13-2015
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Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
John
Could very well be the smartest way to go. I've graduated to looking at a used Onan quiet gen (10 KW) for a lot more money. I must be nuts!

I am assuming you needed to take the Kohler rotor off before getting to the flex plate bolts, right?
I'm sure you've considered all options and that's the best. The stator was fairly easy to remove but the rotor was a son of a gun. You were supposed to give a few good whacks with a hammer and then unscrew the center bolt. Well, after a couple of hundred whacks by 3 different people, I unbolted the genny from the bell housing and pulled it far enough from the engine to reach the flex plate bolts.
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  #27  
Old 08-14-2015
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Originally Posted by alvahall View Post
I'm sure you've considered all options and that's the best. The stator was fairly easy to remove but the rotor was a son of a gun. You were supposed to give a few good whacks with a hammer and then unscrew the center bolt. Well, after a couple of hundred whacks by 3 different people, I unbolted the genny from the bell housing and pulled it far enough from the engine to reach the flex plate bolts.
John
I believe you were supposed to loosen the center bolt 1/4 inch and THEN whack it. But if the flex plate bolts can be reached by backing off the genie, then all is good.

The Onan is too big, longer than the draw is wide. It was a 10K, the lower output ones are smaller and would fit.
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  #28  
Old 08-14-2015
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unscrew the center bolt 1/2''
take a big hammer,6-10lbs
Hit that bolt head as hard as you can hit it.
One good whack,the rotor will jump off.

My old racing buddy would say "send that++++++++++bolt a message"!!!
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  #29  
Old 08-15-2015
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Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
unscrew the center bolt 1/2''
take a big hammer,6-10lbs
Hit that bolt head as hard as you can hit it.
One good whack,the rotor will jump off.

My old racing buddy would say "send that++++++++++bolt a message"!!!
We had the procedure right, just not enough hammer(short handled 4 pounder)or swing. The head of that bolt was mashed flat, but the rotor wouldn't give. With it laying on the ground later, one light whack and the taper popped right off.
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  #30  
Old 08-15-2015
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Originally Posted by alvahall View Post
We had the procedure right, just not enough hammer(short handled 4 pounder)or swing. The head of that bolt was mashed flat, but the rotor wouldn't give. With it laying on the ground later, one light whack and the taper popped right off.
I think the issue is, when it is mounted to the engine you are trying to make the whole engine move and hope the inertia of the rotor will cause it to pop loose. Once it is unbolted from the flywheel you are just moving the flex plate, and that is a piece of cake.
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