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  #11  
Old 12-31-2009
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Ernest Ekberg Ernest Ekberg is offline
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I used a 4 inch scraper that you can buy at Lowes or HD. A 1 inch wide wood chisel works well, and a bottle of Ibuprofin
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  #12  
Old 12-31-2009
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Michael
Another idea would be to put a laminated panel to match the cabinets from the floor to the under side of the new counter top that would run between two cabinets and could be screwed to the back or in between the base cabinets. That would support the rear of the counter, then install an angle bracket off the front of the panel that would support the counter. www.woodworkershardware.com
I'm a little shy about fastening to the coach wall. If you're like me you know that the first place you stick a screw will hit some wiring!

Once you decided what solid surface you're using call a local kitchen cabinet retailer and ask who they use. Or go to the solid surface web site and find your local distributors and call them for a few local fabricators. The solid surface guys are certified so they can help you. Don't go to the big box stores for that. Also if you take some masonite or luan plywood and make a template that represents the shape of the counter exactly, the fabricator can use that and it might save you a buch or two. With the template sitting on the cabinets it will give you a picture of what it will look like prior to spending the $$ for the solid surface top. That would be the time for adjustments to the layout. Good luck
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  #13  
Old 12-31-2009
Pepperell Pepperell is offline
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Default Boat in cellar syndrome...

Dumb question, but will you be able to manuever that 12+ foot counter into the coach??
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2009
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Originally Posted by Pepperell View Post
Dumb question, but will you be able to manuever that 12+ foot counter into the coach??
Well I have the large sliding windows up front, so yes. But I dont plan to. Keep in mind that the prototype will be two pieces of 3/4" plywood fixed together to make it 1 1/2". I will make it out of an 8' and 5' piece and alternate the top and bottom for strength. I can carry them into the coach and then screw the two layers together and then laminate them once in place.

The solid surface guys would probably do it as two pieces and seam it onsite, After it cures you normally cant find the seam.
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  #15  
Old 12-31-2009
al perna al perna is offline
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Michael
Is this a work related project ? I mean WOW ! I only ask because my wife and I work 3 out of 4 weeks in our BB. I can see were this would allow us so much office space . But I didnt want to loose the living space ? Help me here.
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  #16  
Old 12-31-2009
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Originally Posted by mbrund View Post

Will need to find someone in the Austin, TX area that can do the solid surface work once we are ready. I know HomeDepot and Lowes have crews that do it, just not sure I would trust them for this type of job.

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice and comments thus far.
I don't know anyone in the Austin, TX area but Texas Custom Coach in Pipe Creek, TX might be able to do that work or recommend someone in your area. Dave Miller at 830-510-4224, http://www.texascustomcoach.com

What an extensive project!! Looking forward to seeing the end result!!

Regards,
Liz
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  #17  
Old 12-31-2009
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Originally Posted by Mark105 View Post
Michael
Be sure to beef up the counter top substrate to prevent the counter from bowing in the open span. Over time that will want to sag on you. You could double up on the plywood substrate and laminate that. (laminate both sides, bottom can be scrap) If you elect to use 3/4" substrate make plans to add some under counter support in the open area.

We install high end architectural millwork every day. The inductry standard is 3/4" thick tops. They look great for a while. Then someone sets a printer or a row of books or catalogs on the counter and they wonder why the counter is sagging. Once it starts it's tough to get it back.

The design looks great. What a nice work area. Keep us posted.
Hey Mark,thanks for joining in,its always good to get the "tips" from the pros!
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  #18  
Old 01-01-2010
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Started the process of demo'ing the marble. I got it all out, and about 50% of the mastic off the floor in about 5 hours of effort. Ernie was right, the best tool I can have is a bottle of Ibuprofen .

I tried the old heavy sledge, but it just did not seem to do the trick on most of the tiles. So I switched to the air hammer and it did wonders. But what a mess, it looks like I did dry wall in the coach with white powder everywhere.

Will get the rest of the mastic off tomorrow, and then float the damaged areas of the floor and then belt sand to get it back in good shape. Then lay the underlayment and start laying floor. Hopefully will have it done by Sunday if time permits. Then need to start building the cabinets to install on the curb side. May do the wall paper while I'm at this stage as well.

Here is a pic while ripping it out:



Here is a pic after it the marble was removed, and starting to remove the mastic

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  #19  
Old 01-01-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al perna View Post
Michael
Is this a work related project ? I mean WOW ! I only ask because my wife and I work 3 out of 4 weeks in our BB. I can see were this would allow us so much office space . But I didnt want to loose the living space ? Help me here.
Al, No not work related. Just getting the coach ready for use when we retire or can use it more. The new setup gives us more space in the kitchen area for food prep, and since we are DINKS (no kids), we are setting the coach up for us.

The prior setup had two barrel chairs in the living area and a J-booth with slide out table in the kitchen. We will replace the barrel chair with the attached pic. If we can fit two of them in the 5'6" area between the desk and the eating bar then we will purchase two of them. This will give us the same space (with the exception of one less person able to eat at the eating bar than in the J-booth).

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  #20  
Old 01-01-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernest Ekberg View Post
You will also find a 6 inch square cut piece of wood under the marble- this is your fuel tank sending unit.
Yeap found the area cut in the floor where the sending unit is located. We had always wondered why the one tile in front of the J-booth was cracked in every direction. Now I know, it was the one right over the top of that cutout, which has sank a little and caused that tile to crack in multiple places.

Will float that area with filler to bring it inline with the rest of the floor so it does not cause an issue with the new wood floor.



The tile forward of this cracked one, you can kind of tell it has a different texture, had been replaced prior to us receiving the coach. Who ever did the work used thinset on that tile, where as BB used a mastic (or liquid nails) type product that was easy to remove. But that thinset is a royal pain to get off the floor
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