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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #31  
Old 02-14-2019
Preacher Preacher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
Really?
3 times?
so now i suspect you have too small of a relay,or bad batteries.
How old are the batteries?
do you have a load tester?
that relay should last forever,almost..
Sharp eye Randy. I misspoke. I meant I'd HAD three separate contactors in three years. The first one was the original one I think. I replaced it with the equivalent NAPA part number (ST-80) which only lasted a year. I then replaced that one with the original part number Cole Hersee about a year ago which I still have installed. My engine batts are about five years old now, but they still hold a solid 14 volts going down the road, crank the engine smartly and otherwise show no sign of weakness. I do not have a load meter but if you think I need to have them checked as part of solving my problem I will do that.
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  #32  
Old 02-14-2019
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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I always check the batteries,even new ones can be bad.
5yo batteries never happen in my world.
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  #33  
Old 02-14-2019
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Originally Posted by Preacher View Post
Sharp eye Randy. I misspoke. I meant I'd HAD three separate contactors in three years. The first one was the original one I think. I replaced it with the equivalent NAPA part number (ST-80) which only lasted a year. I then replaced that one with the original part number Cole Hersee about a year ago which I still have installed. My engine batts are about five years old now, but they still hold a solid 14 volts going down the road, crank the engine smartly and otherwise show no sign of weakness. I do not have a load meter but if you think I need to have them checked as part of solving my problem I will do that.
Your alternator is putting out 14 volts going down the road not your battery bank. When you shut the engine off after running a while what voltage is your bank? After couple hours?
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  #34  
Old 02-14-2019
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always unhook all batts and check separate 1 or 2 bad cells in a bat can cause much head shaking and thinking-------
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  #35  
Old 02-14-2019
Preacher Preacher is offline
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Your alternator is putting out 14 volts going down the road not your battery bank. When you shut the engine off after running a while what voltage is your bank? After couple hours?
Randy and Rick, my engine batteries were strong enough to start my engine 10 times in quick succession while all of this tail light problem was first happening. Is that not some indication of their soundness? You men know more about this than I and I don't mind having them checked, and even replacing them if they're weak, but what is the likelihood new engine batteries will fix my problem?
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  #36  
Old 02-15-2019
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Originally Posted by Preacher View Post
Randy and Rick, my engine batteries were strong enough to start my engine 10 times in quick succession while all of this tail light problem was first happening. Is that not some indication of their soundness? You men know more about this than I and I don't mind having them checked, and even replacing them if they're weak, but what is the likelihood new engine batteries will fix my problem?
Dude,we are just trying to help you.
If you don't want our input,then carry on.
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  #37  
Old 02-15-2019
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Dude,we are just trying to help you.
If you don't want our input,then carry on.
I apologize for giving offense. It seems like a fair question. I've already spent six hundred bucks with three on scene certified RV mechanics who discovered my disconnected wiring harness in the steering column and repaired that. But before I left their shop, a different problem in the same area arises, that being ALL of the tail light bulbs in the four Volvo sourced lenses, including the backup lights come on dim. This seems to coincide with checking the emergency lights again right before leaving. The mech cleans the contacts on the four relays on the rear power panel which seems to fix the problem and all light functions work normally. The next day, I start the coach, but when I pull the emergency flasher switch, the engine dies. I reset the switch, restart the engine and drive it out to have the propane refilled. On restart at the refill station, the engine now dies whenever the start switch is released to run. This happens with several attempts in the space of a few minutes. I open the rear engine hatch, reach in and shake on the wiring bundles around the rear power panel area and the coach starts and runs on the next attempt. I drive it to another mechanic, we recreate the dim lights phenomena then discover that shaking on the unswitched power wire to the rear A/C condenser fans restores the light functions to normal, except when I try the emergency light switch again, the engine dies. BTW, the condenser fan power wire is wire tied to several white wires that attach to a ground on the power panel. That mech now thinks there is a ground problem somewhere back on the rear power panel. But it's quitting time. I drive it home and spend the next several days replacing CBs and cleaning up every ground I can find on the power panel. No help. I can still get the rear lights to all come on by turning on the emergency flasher switch. That's when I posted the problem as well as I can describe on WOG. A lot of posts come in about grounds. One comes in about checking the trailer harness. I disconnect the trailer harness wiring at the sub panel on the rear power panel. No help. But something, somewhere seems to be either grounding out, failing to ground out or wires are shorting to each other and it seems to be triggered by the emergency flasher switch. In the meantime, you raise the battery condition question which might be the problem but doesn't seem to me to fit all the symptoms (or advice from others) and are expensive items. My question is, after considering again this tortured trail of malfunctions and unrewarded repair attempts, how likely is it that changing the batteries will fix the problem? That's all I'm asking. I've been a member on WOG for several years and try to help others from my own experience whenever I think I can. My name is David, or Dave will be fine.
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  #38  
Old 02-15-2019
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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Fixing an electrical gremlin over the internet is a fool's errand. You will need some equipment and an assistant that can follow directions to turn the key and hold it in the start position for example. I think like others say you at least have a bad ground somewhere, and possibly a + wire connected wrong. Without a meter and help you are shooting in the dark. I have a Power Point, DVOM, and battery load tester that make diagnosis easier but it still is a thankless job. Try disconnecting some of the loads like the turn signal switch. Working on fire trucks I used to have a known good turn signal switch to put in the circuit so that you know if that's the problem. Good luck. Auto electricity can make you crazy! Do the easy stuff first like disconnecting components before throwing batteries at it, unless you can verify you have a bad battery with a load tester.



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  #39  
Old 02-15-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwoody View Post
always unhook all batts and check separate 1 or 2 bad cells in a bat can cause much head shaking and thinking-------
A couple weeks ago my neighbor tells me his late model Range Rover may have serious issues. When he started it all kinds gremlins presenting... Speedo and tach going wonky, other stuff too. Now he's thinking big $

He drove it to service garage and it comes back three days later. I asked him what they found. ... It needed a new battery. That's all.
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  #40  
Old 02-15-2019
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Just saw this. There is an inherent issue with the Volvo style assemblies assuming they are similar or the same to those on the cars. Bad ground. Locate the common ground within the assembly and first test with an ohmmeter between this and a central ground on the bus. If resistance is found, try a jumper from this point around the connector to harness ground since the inherent ground issue will over time burn up the connector.

Just one bad one will make all four and various dash indicators, flasher etc do very crazy things. What you describe sounds like this.
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