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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #51  
Old 02-15-2019
Fujimo Fujimo is offline
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Randy D I believe that is called an air gap , just need a lot more voltage. Wow..
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  #52  
Old 02-15-2019
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1984Lodge 1984Lodge is online now
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Default Batteries first...

I have read through this whole thread and I too agree with Randy. If you do not have a solid foundation to start testing, you are chasing your tail. 5 year old batteries are unheard of for me, especially being in Florida... We get 3 years out of batteries and then you start to see gremlins... Bite the bullet and replace the batteries and then start your testing, that is if you need to..
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  #53  
Old 02-15-2019
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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When i ran the fleet at the welding supply we had a 2 year rule,everything in the fleet got new batteries at 2 years.
My boss said you can't make money with dead batteries,unless your a jumper cable.
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  #54  
Old 02-15-2019
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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Dave, From experience remember that if you just check say a ground connection visually or by seeing if it is tight, that is not enough. You HAVE to remove it, sand it and the parent metal to bright metal and tighten it back up. I like a redundant ground on important stuff. Two ground wires and as many going to the negative side of the battery as is practical. We used this redundant system on our dragbike with 13 data readouts and had no gremlins in 5 years of racing. Many times with a gremlin it is something so simple. Hope that is what you find also. Like I said, do the simple and mostly free stuff first.


Rick in Ohio
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  #55  
Old 02-16-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Preacher View Post
I've just disconnected the battery charger and will check the battery voltage in a few hours. Manifestations of the problem seem to be cascading. Last evening when I pull the emergency flasher switch with the ignition switch OFF, the display on the transmission panel blinks in concert with the flasher. Gentlemen, thanks to all of you. If I can determine the engine batts are good, I think the wisest advice at this point is to investigate the original repair inside the steering column, then start unhooking various systems to determine if taking one off-line cures the problem. And I will pursue the grounds issue at the tail light housings. Good mechs willing to take on issues such as mine are getting harder and harder to find in small towns and even the big cities aren't fairing much better. I'll stay in touch and I REALLY appreciate everyone's help. I don't say that enough.

just got to slow down at eat the elephant



this stuff escalates ever time someone else is in the game...........
been there done that ..follow the last money u sent and follow out from there--
simple fixs are easy once you got the elec system and game in your mind..
heck i wake up at 3 sometimes to remember how to fix a coach on here
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  #56  
Old 02-16-2019
Preacher Preacher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friday1 View Post
Dave, From experience remember that if you just check say a ground connection visually or by seeing if it is tight, that is not enough. You HAVE to remove it, sand it and the parent metal to bright metal and tighten it back up. I like a redundant ground on important stuff. Two ground wires and as many going to the negative side of the battery as is practical. We used this redundant system on our dragbike with 13 data readouts and had no gremlins in 5 years of racing. Many times with a gremlin it is something so simple. Hope that is what you find also. Like I said, do the simple and mostly free stuff first.


Rick in Ohio
Thanks Rick and you're right. I removed and sanded all of the ground connections on the rear power panel and went back with new stainless steel bolts/screws/nuts/washers on the attachments.
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  #57  
Old 02-16-2019
Preacher Preacher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
When i ran the fleet at the welding supply we had a 2 year rule,everything in the fleet got new batteries at 2 years.
My boss said you can't make money with dead batteries,unless your a jumper cable.
Alright alright. You men have worn me down. I'll replace the engine batteries. Who makes the best and what type (lead, glass mat, etc) do you recommend?
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  #58  
Old 02-16-2019
Preacher Preacher is offline
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Originally Posted by rwoody View Post
just got to slow down at eat the elephant



this stuff escalates ever time someone else is in the game...........
been there done that ..follow the last money u sent and follow out from there--
simple fixs are easy once you got the elec system and game in your mind..
heck i wake up at 3 sometimes to remember how to fix a coach on here
Thanks Woody. Good advice. I'm going to put new batteries in it and go from there just as you say. And I too wake up at night thinking about this stuff. Gracie says I get a Lowe's hardware stare whenever I'm trying to piece something together in my mind.
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  #59  
Old 02-16-2019
GregOC GregOC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Preacher View Post
I'm going to put new batteries in it and go from there
I would look over and test batteries first. I charge them up and take the set to a commercial battery only shop to test. Money better spent on a dc clamp on amp meter.

One thing to chart out is the dropped bonding that happens when the transfer switch or inverter or genset vs shore is used. On the lxi theac panel in the rig gets bonded when not on shore power. Could be the link
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  #60  
Old 02-17-2019
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Funny,just yesterday my 2015 GMC started acting stupid,once it was slow to start,and other weird things (electrical) going on.
I put a new battery in and cured it.
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