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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #71  
Old 02-19-2019
Bob Horner Bob Horner is offline
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Originally Posted by Preacher View Post
Gents, my next move will be to install new engine batteries in my coach and I will post the results. But, I've taken the wife out of town on a little R&R and won't be back in my driveway working on the 'bird for about a week. Thanks to everyone for your input. "It ain't over 'till the fat lady sings."
Have you ruled out demonic possession? My wife prays while she pushes the start button on the dishwasher to get it to go.
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  #72  
Old 02-26-2019
Preacher Preacher is offline
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New engine batteries were no help. All the problems remain. I checked the wiring in the rear tail lamp assemblies and it all looks properly connected. Steering column is next.
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1994 BMC37
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  #73  
Old 03-03-2019
Preacher Preacher is offline
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Are you doing the work yourself now or is someone else? I have an ideal or 2 but would like to know if its costing you $ or your doing it yourself.
Rick, right now, I'm doing it myself. I just finished looking at all of the wiring inside the steering column leading to the turn signal mechanism. No splices, no chafing, no signs of shorts. My symptoms persist. Feel free to share your ideas and thanks.

Dave
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  #74  
Old 03-03-2019
Preacher Preacher is offline
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Originally Posted by GregOC View Post
One other thought is you have a big ground short in something tied to brake lights (electric trailer actuator) that is powered by an oversized auto resetting breaker. The problem with self resetting fuses is that they go in and out and are difficult to find which one has an issue. Look for heat on one or a newer one that a prior owner upsized in a typical novice fashion . fuses and breakers are devices for wire/line protection from an appliance like a bad bulb requesting more current than the line can handle. When you use a fuse that is rated at the amps of the intended draw the fuse blown becomes a warning of the appliance having an issue. Too often a novice replaces the fuse with a larger rated fuse and the line or wire heats up and starts to ground out or muff other wires or shared cannon plugs. The self reset fuses also muff wires and cannon plugs because they repeat and repeat and repeat the over amp issue. Not a fan of auto reset


Like Randy's question What did some one touch? The big clues to issues and prior issues are in new wires, splices, electrical tape or larger fuses. I always check fuse size against the specs. foretelling
Greg, the only electrical work I've had done on the coach is that several months ago, I had the propane furnace replaced with a new one. On my coach, that furnace lies in it's own compartment beneath the refrigerator. The fridge has to be removed to change the furnace out. The change out was this past Fall and I have driven the coach several hundred miles since that time with no problems. Also, the furnace works fine even when the rear lighting problems are manifesting. Nevertheless, I've pulled the fridge back out giving me full access to the furnace compartment. There are numerous wire bundles and single wires in this area but I've found no signs of chafing wires in any of them.

No one has changed out any fuses in over a year and then it was the fuze to the furnace fan. We used the correct amperage for the furnace. I'm aware of the difference between the auto-reset fuzes and the simple burn out type. But, your comment regarding an auto fuze resetting is duly noted in regard to my problem. There may be something to that and I'll keep it in mind. During a series of troubleshooting steps, I removed the trailer wire hookups from the rear power panel at your suggestion and it made no difference in my problem. But, that was an excellent suggestion.

Here is the most recent state of affairs. The current problem remains that all of the light bulbs in the rear tail light lenses come on and remain on, including the two back up lights. This is always triggered by some normal attempted use of the rear lighting system such as brakes, turn signals or emergency flashers. I've not determined whether simply turning on the light switch will do so.

When all of the rear lights in the lenses do illuminate, there is no longer any detectible voltage differential between the positive engine battery posts and ground. A test light does not illuminate. This tells me that the coach chassis (ground) has somehow become charged which then suggests to me the current to the tail light bulbs is flowing through the ground wires. And this indicates to me that I have a short to ground somewhere in the tail light system. Once the lights come on, one technique I've found that turns them off is to simply pull the headlight switch out, and push it back in.

I would appreciate all comments to this post.

David
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  #75  
Old 03-04-2019
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When all of the rear lights in the lenses do illuminate, there is no longer any detectible voltage differential between the positive engine battery posts and ground. A test light does not illuminate. This tells me that the coach chassis (ground) has somehow become charged which then suggests to me the current to the tail light bulbs is flowing through the ground wires. And this indicates to me that I have a short to ground somewhere in the tail light system. Once the lights come on, one technique I've found that turns them off is to simply pull the headlight switch out, and push it back in.

I would appreciate all comments to this post.
David

Maybe I’m not following what you’re saying but… if your test light illuminates when you connect it between the positive posts and the negative posts of the engine batteries but it doesn’t illuminate when you connect it between the positive posts of the engine batteries and chassis ground, then the engine battery negative path to chassis ground is open.
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  #76  
Old 03-04-2019
jwood jwood is offline
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Faulty negative battery cable? Would be a cheap try
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  #77  
Old 03-04-2019
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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As a mechanic I used to keep a "known good" turn signal harness in my tool box. On most fire trucks the turn signal harness was connected with an 8 wire connector and you could unplug and plug your test harness in and see if the problem-usually something with the brake lights-was still there. Sometimes it was a problem with turn signals. Even if you had no test harness, you could cut the wires one at a time until the problem went away. Then you have narrowed down the circuit.



Rick in Ohio
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  #78  
Old 03-04-2019
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a load tester can find a bad battery cable.
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  #79  
Old 03-04-2019
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its stupid grounds

always the grounds!!!!!!!!!

or lack of a ground


check the grounds with a wire back to battery neg and use a power probe..great tool!
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  #80  
Old 03-04-2019
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I have not read this entire post as I have been dealing with other issues, but I did read there was extensive work done on and in the refrigerator area, so, did by chance there is a GREEN IGNITION LOCK wire which connects to the refer DC terminal block which turns off the refer when it is on LP and the RV ignition is turn off when stopping for fuel to ensure no flame is on.


If this wire gets uses as a ground or is accidentally grounded due to work in the area, it will cause a voltage backfeed into the dash, lights etc and cause some very wierd issue to happen.


Since work was done on the ignition/turn signals, make sure this same wire was not grounded as it will cause an issue.


Don't ask me how I know, but worth a look.
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