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Towbars, Hitches and Braking Systems for your Toads, etc. Questions, concerns, or suggestions regarding what equipment to use to tow your Toad with are discussed here.

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  #21  
Old 07-04-2010
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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The Cool Tech Jeep Lights wiring harness was an easy install. Now I'm thinking I'd like the fuse(s) switched instead of always removing the fuses when towing. Has anyone used a "fuse Switch" http://www.rv-partsplus.com/home/accessories/ or something similar?
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1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
1974 FC31 534 gas engine, air brakes (sold)
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  #22  
Old 07-04-2010
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gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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I tow a 1995 Jeep with the SMI system. I have never had a battery problem. I would love to disable the stearing lock, however. Leaving the key in it is a risk, and taking it out could result in forgetting to put it back in. I have towed the jeep in park with the transfer case engaged, it makes a real nasty chirping sound on the pavement

As far as the SMI, I plan to adjust it and tilt it so it only comes on in the hardest of stops. Currently it likes to come on going down hill with the retarder engaged. I am constantly cycling the brake or retarder to disengage the SMI. My main interest is the breakaway, but had I purchased the M&G system insetad I would be much happier.
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  #23  
Old 07-05-2010
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Gardner

I removed 1 spring on our Jeep Wrangler 1998 to disable steering lock.
Remove lower shroud from Jeep on the bottom of key assyembly you'll see a single screw at about key legnth depth remove this and spring should fall out[may need to shake wheel]. I taped spring to inside of cover for replacement if EVER needed.
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  #24  
Old 10-16-2010
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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Our Jeep power consumption about matched the below Power Consumption doc.

Followed second doc. and did the steering lock removal this afternoon...no more steering lock...no 2.45 amps draw. Turn key to off and remove it...front wheels turn left/right as expected. I'm a happy camper.

I do have installed a 12V wire from the coach to the toad battery with
a diode controlling power directional flow.

Power consumption - Testing by Cool Tech LLC, Inc.:

The objective was to measure the current draw of the JK with the key in the first click position which unlocks the steering wheel but is also the accessory position. I tested using a precision Fluke 77 ammeter. Here's what I found:

JK Key-off position = .01 amps draw

JK Key-off position w/underhood light on = .96 amps draw (just a reference)

JK Ign 1st Click = 2.45 amps draw!!! (Also, in this mode there is a relay that cylces every 50 seconds tht briefly draws more current)

JK Ign 1st Click; IOD Fuse Pulled = .17 amps draw


OK, so these are the results which are a little suprising. With the IOD fuse left in place, 2.45 amps/hr x 12 hours = ~30 Amp/hrs which is probably about 1/2 (or more) of the total battery capacity of the JK battery.

Recommendation: If you're flat-towing the JK, lift up the cover on the fuse panel immediately in front of the battery. Lift up the Ignition Off Draw (IOD) Fuse. It is a 60A fuse and it has a holder with white "ears" to help you lift it up.

Second doc.
Removing Steering Lock – 2007 JK Jeep Wrangler

I also would like to disable the steering wheel lock on my 2008 Wrangler. I found this on the JK forum but I have not tried to do it yet.

Quote from JK Forum.com
I tow my JK a lot behind my MH. It is more of a PITA with the JK than it was with my TJ since i have to remember to pull the fuse and reconnect it every time i tow. I looked at various alternatives (battery disconnect, hot wire from MH, doing nothing, etc) but decided that the best alternative was to disconnect the steering wheel lock. That way, when i tow, i hook up, lock the doors and tow away - no key in the ignition and no fuses to pull.

My friend did it a week ago and I just completed my project this afternoon.

It is a half day project and requires some drilling and nimble fingers. Here are the steps - i have some photos if there is interest.

1. Pull out the lower kick panel pulling from the bottom.
2. Pull out the next kick panel pulling from the top - this one is hinged on the bottom.
3. Use a torx screwdriver to remove the 3 torx bolts from under the steering wheel. The first torx is exposed and easy to remove. The other two require a torx dirver 4-5 inches long to reach up into the recessed holes.
4. pull off the lower and upper plastic protective panels over the steering wheel.
5 . disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses using the release tabs where needed.
6. disconnect the tranny cable - the release tab on this one is on top of the connector.
7. Remove the torx bolt holding in the black plastic connection box opposite the keyway (on the left hand side facing front). this is the box that the large wire harness connects to. you will need a short stubby torx to get to this bolt.
8. Gently remove this black plastic connection box. It slides out away from the aluminum housing. be careful not to break the pencil thin plastic pushrod coming out of the end of the aluminum box.
9. now comes the fun part. You have to drill out the 4 rivets holding the aluminum box in place. I used a 1/8" bit and a center punch to start the hole. Note that these are not typical rivets but rather stubs coming out of the upper cast aluminum box that have been rounded over after attaching the bottom plate. I drilled at an angle and left much of the stub in place so that i could use sheet metal screws to reattach the bottom.
10. Gently pull away the lower cover. The metal steering wheel lock and a spring will fall out. There is also a metal plunger with a plastic pushrod in it that goes from the key to the plastic junction box you removed earlier. everything is keyed so that you can only reassemble in one position.
11. After removing the metal steering wheel lock and the spring, you are ready to reassemble.
12. put the metal plunger with the plastic pushrod back onto the lock cylinder. it only goes on one way.
13. put the other end of the pushrod through the hole in the bottom plate and position it back in place.
14. I was able to use 4 sheet metal screws about 3/4" long to reattach the bottom plate.
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1974 FC31 534 gas engine, air brakes (sold)
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