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Towbars, Hitches and Braking Systems for your Toads, etc. Questions, concerns, or suggestions regarding what equipment to use to tow your Toad with are discussed here.

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  #1  
Old 06-25-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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Default Toad 7 pin (on the 'Bird) wiring question

OK, so I finally compiled all the parts (tow bar, RVI Brake 3, lighting harness, umbilical, and toad charger) so we can tow the Jeep behind our '91 SP 36.

So in my research, it seems BB didn't initially use the standard pin out in the 7 pin on the coach, but no one has verified if/when they did.

My questions are these:
- can I pull the 7 pin apart on the coach like in the umbilical and wire it correctly if it's wrong?

- why upstream from the plug on the coach, does it go to a flat 4 plug? Was something changed over the years?

- is there a 12v hot pin on the coach plug?

The catalyst to the questions are, my toad charger isn't lighting up (tells me there is no juice on that pin on the coach), and my right turn signal and brake light don't work. Running lights work. I did all the testing to the harness I put on the toad (2012 Jeep Wrangler with a Cooltech plug and play harness) and it passed.

When I tried to put the meter to the plug on the coach, I couldn't even find ground, so should I just start over on the coach and do it correctly? The only thing that spooks me with this is the flat 4 that is up stream from the 7 pin on the coach. That makes no sense.
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Karen & Brice Osborne
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'91 SP
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Old 06-25-2017
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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IF the 91 is wired the same as older PTs, this might help.

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...trailer+wiring

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...trailer+wiring
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Curt Sprenger
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Old 06-25-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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Thanks for those as they give a bit more info.

However, I'm not doing a brake controller (at this time). All I need is a constant 12v on a pin to do the trickle charge on the toad. The RVI brake is completely wireless, so I've not got any need for a "normal" trailer brake setup (I've done it before as the Jeep is wired for trailer brakes, ironically).

I'm thinking I need to get down there and have fun with a meter and re-wire the plug to be to the standard. But I guess that still leaves the question if there is a pin from the factory that provides 12v.
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Old 06-25-2017
rshrimp rshrimp is offline
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My LX has separate turn signals and brake lights. Like a lot of newer cars, you have to buy a magic box that makes it all work right at the 7 wire. My trailer wiring is NOT factory but does include the "magic box"

Magic box linky:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Curt-Manu...&wl13=&veh=sem
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Old 06-25-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MsBianca View Post
Thanks for those as they give a bit more info.

However, I'm not doing a brake controller (at this time). All I need is a constant 12v on a pin to do the trickle charge on the toad. The RVI brake is completely wireless, so I've not got any need for a "normal" trailer brake setup (I've done it before as the Jeep is wired for trailer brakes, ironically).

I'm thinking I need to get down there and have fun with a meter and re-wire the plug to be to the standard. But I guess that still leaves the question if there is a pin from the factory that provides 12v.
Suggest running a #10 or #12 wire from the coach battery to the pin.
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1974 FC31 534 gas engine, air brakes (sold)
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Old 06-25-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtsprenger View Post
Suggest running a #10 or #12 wire from the coach battery to the pin.
Yeah, that's what I was thinking I'd end up doing. It's not a very long run, so it should be easy enough.

Do you think I should relay it? I just don't know how to get ignition hot to energize the relay.

Again, just a 16g wire going from a trickle charger in the engine bay of the Jeep to the coach to keep from draining its battery.

Time go inspect the coach some more and have fun with a meter for a few minutes to see how far the coach is from standard.
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Old 06-25-2017
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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Include a 15 amp fuse or self reset CB in the line from battery to pin if using #12 wire vs #10. #12 will be easier to work with at the plug.
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Curt Sprenger
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1974 FC31 534 gas engine, air brakes (sold)
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Old 06-25-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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OK, now this is funny and you guys will love this.

At some point, the 7 pin was eliminated all together and a flat 4 put in there.

Then, they decided to put in a 7 pin again.

So they put in a flat 4 to 7 pin harness adapter.

All this after this morning when I started, there was one of those 7 pin to flat 4 plug in adapters plugged in.

To recap it went from the factory 7 pin -> flat 4 -> 7 pin -> flat 4. Absolutely hilarious.

I'll eventually go ahead and eliminate the flat 4 altogether, but for the time being I'm just going to run a single hot wire to the appropriate terminal on the 7 pin. As long as you guys don't think I need to relay it, the whole deal shouldn't be too hard.
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Old 06-25-2017
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Stick Miller Stick Miller is offline
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I kept my 4 flat connector so if I wanted to rent a trailer or car hauler I'd be set to go. I know adaptors are available, but I'm cheap.
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Old 06-25-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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Yep, I've got the adapter already, so no need. I just thought it was funny how they went all around the barn and essentially went full circle.

So because it does not seem that there is a 12v constant from the factory, I'm just going to run a single wire down to the plug.
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