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Towbars, Hitches and Braking Systems for your Toads, etc. Questions, concerns, or suggestions regarding what equipment to use to tow your Toad with are discussed here.

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  #11  
Old 06-26-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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So I did some testing and monkeying around this afternoon. The quick harness I made got the toad charger sorted, so I'm good there.

My only remaining issue is that the right lights aren't working on the toad. I've traced it down to that terminal isn't getting power. The turn signals work on the coach, but down at the connector, now juice there.

Next Steps are to pull the miles of electrical tape and hopefully there is a bad connection wherever they spliced in the flat 4. If not, any suggestions?
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Karen & Brice Osborne
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'91 SP
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  #12  
Old 06-26-2017
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morganaire morganaire is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtsprenger View Post
Suggest running a #10 or #12 wire from the coach battery to the pin.
Exactly what I did on ours - works like a champ. Put an in-line fuse just to satisfy my OCD
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Ken and Tammy Morgan
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'80 FC35 SB
'76 FC35 SB (project)
'91 SP36 (sold)
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  #13  
Old 06-26-2017
f.wernlein f.wernlein is online now
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FYI/Observation:

We run a similar set up: a '09 Jeep JK, CoolTech harness. I made a simple 4 wire harness that does the run from the OEM 7 pin plug outlet to the plug receptacle port for the CT harness plug. We use a Brake Buddy for brake system. No issues in 8 years.

As to the need to have a charging wire/or charging ability...I'd say try living without it at first. As the JK's from '09 on do not have any sort of steering wheel lock - there is no need to pull any fuses or leave key "on" to tow. Note: Jeep did not update the owners manual for some time on this aspect. Not having a key on makes for a simple tow with no key left in the JK, and no excess current draw. Our brake buddy has never depleted our JK battery even over 2 full 24 hours of towing. The turn/brake/running lights all are run off the coach via the umbilical cable.
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Coach photos & comments: http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...php?albumid=79

Last edited by f.wernlein; 06-26-2017 at 07:54 AM.
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  #14  
Old 06-26-2017
mose mose is online now
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I'm just about to do the same thing you are. Rewired the two plugs. Large one with trailer brakes and small one for tow vehicle. I'm about to add a +12 power feed to both plugs. I bought a circuit breaker and was going to pull the feed off the chassis batteries. And then I was going to add a relay so it's only on when the coach is running. If you have a rear start key/box, you can get an 'ignition' signal for the relay from that box. All local and short runs.
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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So this is funny. I dug deeper into why the right turn signal wasn't working.

Uh, 3 sets of butt connectors in about 2 feet all wrapped in enough electrical tape to wrap the bus. This is my issue.

We are on the road this weekend, but I'll do it correctly and go further up stream for clean wire and do a better connection. Butt connectors are not a bad connection, unless you are exposed to the elements. I'd be scared to see the resistance of the existing wiring.

I'm about to go hook up the Jeep and confirm its working.

As for the toad charger, we're on 3 batteries in 5 years (last one was my fault as it sat outside and was barely driven this winter), and I already ran and tested the charger and its working perfect. I fused it to be safe. It's actually fused in 2 places; under the hood of the Jeep and from the coach starter battery to the 7 pin plug. Since it's there, going to use it to be safe.

When I eventually install the brake controller, I'll just have to run the control wire and I know there are threads on doing that, so I'll be good there. It's not a priority, but I've at a minimum become more familiar.
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