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HVAC, Aircconditioners, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters Questions and information about the wide variety of Heating and Air Conditioning as well as Water Heater systems available are discussed here.

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  #21  
Old 01-08-2018
konehd konehd is offline
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LOL!

The wires from the front control panel were run to the rear near the boilers. I had to run the wires from the rear control panel though.

Added breakers in the breaker panel and ran wires from them to a relay box near the boilers...

I think you have a single loop and only one control?

YMMV though. They all are different!

Good luck!

/Joe
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  #22  
Old 01-08-2018
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Kiwi3 Kiwi3 is offline
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That is correct, single loop-single control. I only have one pump under the battery tray so I probably only need to build one heater assembly. I'm toying with the idea of making the pipe assembly longer and using larger element, however, that may be counterproductive.

The part that I'm a little worried about is the actual power lines from the breaker panel to the bay. I know that the breaker panel is almost directly above so the run isn't long - just finding a place to run the wires might be. Maybe I'm lucky and there are power wires down there already just not connected in the breaker box. Stranger things have happened on a Wanderlodge.
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  #23  
Old 01-08-2018
konehd konehd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi3 View Post
The part that I'm a little worried about is the actual power lines from the breaker panel to the bay. I know that the breaker panel is almost directly above so the run isn't long - just finding a place to run the wires might be. Maybe I'm lucky and there are power wires down there already just not connected in the breaker box. Stranger things have happened on a Wanderlodge.
It wasnt that bad.

On the 93 the breaker panel is on the passenger side, remove that and remove the side of the rear closet. Then you can access the area behind the breaker.
I drilled a hole next to the air inlet pipe, after making sure I wouldnt hit anything important... And ran the wires through there.

I used 4 1500w heaters, 120v and that worked out well. On low its 3000w so can run on 30a but just barely! High requires 50a...

Other thing to do is add a switch for the primus in the bedroom... IIRC you only have a switch up front??


/Joe
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  #24  
Old 01-08-2018
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Kiwi3 Kiwi3 is offline
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Yup, the only control is mounted upside down over the driver's seat so you have to look up and then imagine it flipped the other way - or lay on the arm of the sofa with your head against the wall.

With only one loop, I can probably only attach one set of heating elements. I don't think I'll be getting to 6000w unless I'm rather creative with the heater elements.
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  #25  
Old 01-09-2018
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I looked at the pictures that Joe Garner provided on his installation. It looks nice but I have a question. Joe did you use a dielectric insulator between the copper and galvanized pipe to prevent electrolysis?
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  #26  
Old 01-09-2018
konehd konehd is offline
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LOL!!

Nope, just gooped them up. Good thought though!

Easier way would be to use galvanized vice copper and not worry... If I ever need to take them apart I'll do that.

Thanks!

/Joe
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  #27  
Old 01-09-2018
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nbedinger nbedinger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptPegLeg View Post
I’m guessing this first photo might be the reservoir for the Primus system. Am I close?
This Bird, having lived the last several years in Florida, hasn’t needed much in the way of heat but with an OBX residence I have to try and bring the Primus system back to life. Richard, the PO didn’t have much need to know how or if the system worked so there wasn’t a lot of info he could share with me. With that in mind I’ll be asking the COLLECTIVE some dumb questions that I would otherwise be asking him.

I can’t guess what this second photo might be. The canister is sorta tucked in front of the back bumper.

Here's a couple of quick tests to get you started:

Turn on your LP gas master solenoid if it is off, wait a few minutes. Then light the range burner. If you have LP at the stove, you probably have gas to the Primuses too. Got gas?

See if you can spot a bosch-type relay mounted on a wall in the vicinity of the boilers. There will pro'lly be two of them (one per boiler). Take pics of the wiring first, then clean up the relay connections. Power up a boiler and put your hand on its circ pump (on bottom, underside of boiler). Can you feel that it is running? Your reservoir tanks make a little splashing sound when the pumps run, can you hear that?

I'm in Hampton Roads area, so Kitty Hawk's a day trip in the car. If we get some decent weather I could take a look at your Primuses with you, if you'd like.
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Last edited by nbedinger; 01-09-2018 at 08:22 PM.
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2018
CaptPegLeg CaptPegLeg is offline
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That would be great Ned, Thanks!
I’m in Biloxi MS now and heading for New Orleans tomorrow. One of the boilers worked for a while but died somewhere along I-95. The solenoid doesn’t click now so feel like that may be the problem.
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  #29  
Old 01-10-2018
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nbedinger nbedinger is offline
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That would be great Ned, Thanks!
I’m in Biloxi MS now and heading for New Orleans tomorrow. One of the boilers worked for a while but died somewhere along I-95. The solenoid doesn’t click now so feel like that may be the problem.
I don't know how accessible the boilers are in a WB installation, but cleaning contacts is a good place to start if you can get at them.

Plugs on front of boiler can cause bad connections. Take a close look for the tab that holds them tight to the boiler, release and clean both sides of contacts. I've had good luck with that as remedy for won't start or intermittent problems getting them to fire.

The gas solenoid in the boiler has three small blade-type m/f connections: two power and one ground wire, it is usually grounded to one of the solenoid mounting bolts. A solenoid that doesn't click might just need connections cleaned. Shut off gas at master, follow the metal gas line to the solenoid in the base of the boiler. The mounting bolts point downward into the solenoid thru the steel pedestal (base). Remove plastic electronics face from boiler to access solenoid mounting bolts. Clean connections to boiler thermostatic circ breaker while you have cover off. You can disconnect the gas line from boiler, undo the solenoid mounting bolts, and pull the solenoid out to clean all three solenoid connections, but the 3 wires might not be long enough--it seems designed to be serviced with the boiler out. The wires are color coded and the solenoid has numbered male terminals (#1, 2 and 3) corresponding to the wiring diagrams in the Primus literature. Assume the wires are already connected correctly, put them back the same way once cleaned.

Weather in NOLA this week looks about like here Travel well
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Last edited by nbedinger; 01-10-2018 at 08:20 PM.
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