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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #1  
Old 08-09-2014
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Endless Summer Endless Summer is offline
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Default Inverter and Charger Sharing Battery Posts?

I just replaced the chargers on my 87FC35 with a modern 80 amp charger...what a difference it makes.

Now I am getting ready to replace my old PACS 1500 inverter with a modern 2000 watt unit. The charger and inverter are in separate compartments using separate battery cable runs. It would be a lot more convenient for me if I could locate the new inverter in the same compartment as the new charger, and just hook it up to the same battery cables as the charger is currently on.

Will that work?

Thanks!
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Old 08-09-2014
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I would think you would be better off to put the new inverter/charger in the inverter compartment. No need to make new AC runs. All the wiring is right there.
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Old 08-09-2014
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True dat, Rick, but fortunately the compartments are next to each other and the AC run would only be about 6 feet, so it would be fairly easy.
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Old 08-09-2014
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On the charge side, probably best to be as close to the batteries as possible. Our ProSine has a maximum run and I think its 13 feet.

NH Bill
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Old 08-09-2014
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I agree with Rick and Bill. They might even agree with me

Here's what works for me. Nothing much different from other discussions about this on the WOG, but I waffled where others have followed BEST PRACTICES to conclusion. See what you think about my solution after reading more extensively in the archive

I re-used the PACS 1500's 12V cables to connect a new inverter charger to the batts. They are small for the amount of power my charger and inverter can put thru them, but I can't put the full charge capability into my batts anyway--deep cycle lead/acid batts can't accept even half of my charger's power without boiling away. I have the charger tuned way down in the control panel, to something like max 40A@12V nominal, if IIRC. If I upgrade to AGM batts, I'll have to run bigger cables to the batts to accommodate the additional charge amps.

Following instructions from manufacturer, I added a cut-off switch and fuse into the 12V (+) cable near the inverter/charger to protect it.

[Note: I also added a new cut-off switch and catastrophe fuse in the battery (-), near the batteries, to protect everything else. The cut-off switches make maintenance tasks easier than disconnecting power by removing cables. Sizing the catastrophe fuse is a PITA, I eventually threw a dart at the board and picked 400A fuse.]

My inverter/charger has AC pass-through. It can power twice the AC load of the old PACS 1500, so I ran heavier new 10-3 cable from the inverter bay to a new subpanel in the wardrobe closet. The plan is to move the inverter loads and the charger's AC power to the sub-panel and power them with the 10-3 cable.

I want a licensed electrician to make the sub-panel connections, haven't done that last bit yet, so I'm still running the inverter loads as they were wired at the Wanderlodge factory. I simply took the inverter AC -out wires off the PACS and put them on the new Magnum's AC out terminals.

I use the inverter very little (nay, make that very very little), maybe as much as a few minutes a month, to operate motorized curtains). Seems better to get along without hitting the batts for AC. I let the ice melt, and I use the 12V lights, gas fridge, Primus/gas hot water. I fire up the generator for any substantial loads. The inverter is, like, meh. Not a big feature of my lifestyle.

So, I don't feel much sense of urgency to complete the inverter sub-panel part of the project, not yet anyway. But it is one of those projects that will render a higher level of quality and safety than Wanderlodge built into the house electrical system back in 1991. The original inverter wiring is dated by mechanical contactors that switch loads between AC and inverter power--not state of the art, but good enough for my current (heh) purposes.
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Old 08-09-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endless Summer View Post
True dat, Rick, but fortunately the compartments are next to each other and the AC run would only be about 6 feet, so it would be fairly easy.
I like to use the phrase if it ain't broke don't fix it. You might be forgetting that your remote ON switch is right above your head at the driver's seat. I used the same wire to connect to the new remote switch. If you move it you will have to run more wire. Most power converters have a remote ON switch, they make things simpler. I just cut the old ends off and spliced on the new ends and all was good. Running new switch wires through the walls is no fun.
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