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  #21  
Old 08-22-2009
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DTW1086@cox.net DTW1086@cox.net is offline
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Pozz,
Here are a few pics of how I did the hinge on my 80 FC 31. I haven't done the hoses yet but went ahead with the hinge because even if I have to drain the coolant, having the hinge makes getting into it a one man job now.
Desc. of Pics. 004. Bumper hinged down and Rad. bracket in place prior to welding. 006. My friend Rob welding tube onto angle iron (note Rad. bracket on end with tube welded on. 010. Hinge assembled and in place (bolt used for hinge pin is threaded into bumper bracket). 011. Installed hinge from other side. 012. Rad. bracket partially opened. 020. Radiator mounted on hinged bracket. 022. Radiator and bumper in closed position.
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Mesa, AZ
1980 FC 31 SB

THE SHORT BUS
(She's Just a Little Slow)
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  #22  
Old 09-13-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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Well, I took the Bird out for it's first trip last week. I loaded it up with spare parts, my tools, several blocks of wood, chock blocks, saftey triangles, first aid kit, and checked the fire extinguishers. I was heading for Maine. One thing I failed to check previously, were the locks for the bulkhead doors, for operation. I had lubed them, but when I tried to lock them, 4 were frozen . I spent some time working the key back and forth, while squirting PB Blaster inside each lock. Finally, I got them all to work.
I loaded the motorcycle on the trailer, and off I went. The sun was just setting and after a half hr or so, I got a chance to expierience the dash lighting once again since the night I drove it home.
I wasn't in a rush, I thought I'd drive into the night, and check in an RV Resort the next day.
I pulled off in a rest area, after driving for a while, fired up the refrigerator, so it would be cold the next day, got into the bed, hit the switch for the power door lock, next to the bed, and went to sleep. Life couldn't have been better, the bus was running great, and everything that was supposed to work,( with the exception of the rear Suburban furnace, which the blower motor runs, but dosen't fire) was working.
The next morning, when I woke up, I took a shower, and before I left I wanted to kick the tires , and check for leaks etc, so I unlocked the door from the same switch, turned the handle to open it, and was locked in!
I hit the switch both ways again, and heard the lock unlocking but the deadbolt was pinned in the locked position. I tied the switch on the dash, and had the same results, tried manually turning the latch on the door, nothing, so I thought "what now"? I had joined FMCA, and have Coachnet, but what could they do for me? As far as I know there's no access to the lock from the outside. after flipping the switch a few times, checking each time, it unlocked The deadbolt was dry, and dirty, so I cleaned it, lubed it up, and with the door open, hit the switch a few times and worked the deadbolt back and forth till it was freed up. It works good now! ( I still don't know how to access the lock. Is it behind the padded wall from the inside?)
All said and done, the bus ran great the rest of the trip. I used a little less than a qt of oil in 750 miles. What a pleasure to drive! It does seem to hunt a little, but I'm not sure if it's because I'm sitting so far ahead of the front wheels, or not. The old tires that were on it, were wearing evenly, but I'm going to check the "toe", anyway. The way I do it, is to jack up the wheel, then I drive a nail through the end of a short piece of 2x4, lay the wood in front of the tire, spin the tire backwards and hold the nail against the tire, That makes a mark on the tire ,from which to measure the front and rear of .
See you on the Boulevard!
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Lancaster MA.
1982 35 FT. FC, SB
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  #23  
Old 09-13-2009
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Jim, Good job on you Bird. We had the same problem with the dead bolt on our trip home. Like you we were able to get it working. As to the wandering, we replaced the shock with a set of Konis. That, without a doubt was the best money spent so far. The shocks made the bus ride much firmer and really reduced the wander.
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  #24  
Old 09-13-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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Thank you, Rick. I believe my bus has Koni shocks on it. I'll try adjusting them
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1982 35 FT. FC, SB
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  #25  
Old 09-14-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Harvie View Post
Thank you, Rick. I believe my bus has Koni shocks on it. I'll try adjusting them
Good Morning Jim,

Well we have been a witness to a NEW MEMBER that has jumped in with both feet at putting his 'Bird back in to good shape again, or at least you have made a very large dent in that project. So I decided that I would move your thread over to this forum and re-title it to reflect what you are doing and over here it will be in a forum that it actually fits into better and it will also be easier to find in the future when someone does a search on any of the topics that you have covered here.

The WANDER in a Wanderlodge is a very common topic especially on the older 'Birds, some of it is related to the driving position being in front of the steering axle, which at times makes you feel like you need to over correct the wandering by too much steering wheel input, it takes some getting used to, I steer with just one hand but always keep the other hand close by just in case I need it and this helps a little, here are some things for you to check out along with adjusting those Koni shocks;

Wanderlodge Owners Group > Mechanic's Corner > Tires, Brakes and Suspensions > steering slop
One thing that I mention in this thread is making sure that the front kingpins are properly greased, it makes a big difference on my FC.

Wanderlodge Owners Group > Links, Files, Old Yahoo Forum Database and Downloads > Downloads & Files > Suspension >

REAR SUSPENSION PANHARD ROD BOLT FAILURE WARNING AND REPAIR.txt
A link to a photographic description of the warning and repair of the rear panhard rod failure on 'Birds. the failure warning article is by Jeff Miller. I also had Randy replace the bushings on the front Panhard Bar. Be sure to click on NEXT at the right of each of the pictures found in this link to see more information.

HOW TO TAKE THE WANDER OUT OF THE WANDERLODGE
A Feature Of The Month from the old forum with detailed pictures and descriptions of things that can be replaced and adjusted to help eliminate some of the wandering that seems to be common with the older model Wanderlodges, there are many pages to this feature, just click on NEXT at the right of each page to go to the next one.
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  #26  
Old 09-14-2009
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Hey Jim, I just read your thread, great job! Are you coming to NH next week? We would love to see your Bird and meet a new owner. Diane and I are on the Cape, let me know if you head down this way.
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  #27  
Old 09-14-2009
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Hi Jim

Welcome! I'm in Connecticut with an 83 bird good luck.

Henry
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  #28  
Old 09-17-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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Thank you, everyone:
Crit. I'll be there. I'm looking forward to meeting everyone!
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Lancaster MA.
1982 35 FT. FC, SB
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  #29  
Old 09-17-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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I"m installing a new roof vent fan, in the Kitchen. The old fan motor was making a little noise. I went to the local RV dealer, to get a new motor. ($30 bucks). I also took the screen with me, because it had a small hole in it. They didn't have the screen, mine has square corners, and they only had rounded corner screens.What I really wanted was a larger fan.
I found a nice upgrade for $55 bucks, called a "Vortex". It's a 10" fan mounted in a plastic housing that slides up inside the vent. It hangs down some, but the cabinet door just clears. It has it's own screen. It has an offset regulator that controls the lift for the lid ,with a female spline that slips into the existing shaft, and the handle (supplied) mounts on the bottom side offset (so the fan will clear). It has it's own switch if you need it.Two screws mount the unit in the same holes the screen mounts in
The problem is, the exsisting shaft on the roof vent, dosen't hang down low enough to "hook up". I've seen repair kits for the lift , that have a short extension in the kit. I think I can make it work with two of those. I'll find out tomorrow.
I also tinted my bathroom window to match the rest. Mine was white, and installed a new swivel/tilt wallmount LCD TV.
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  #30  
Old 11-09-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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I did a little more work to my bird.
I did the taillight relay upgrade... what a difference! I only had 10 volts going to my trailer plug. I'll be pulling a trailer that I have been also working on, and it's loaded with lights, so now was a good time do to it. While I was at it, I rewired the trailer plug the way it should be.
I made a "**** Flap" out of 4 short heavy duty mud flaps butted together, that I bought at Fleetpride for 7 bucks each. I hung it behind the rollers off of an inch and a half polished aluminum "I beam" and welded a few flanges off of the roller supports to bolt the support to. On the bottom of the mudflaps I hung a 6" aluminum diamond plate strip, and installed 4 small rollers so it won't drag, and when the air dumps it will roll back. it pivots above the big rollers on the back of the bus, and if I have to back up, I can pin it up with a few bungie cords so it won't get pinched by the rollers. I also installed 7 2" LED marker lights with chrome rings, so the back end it lit up good.
I fabricated an exhaust stack to hook onto my generator exhust. The exhaust exits forward the main engine exhaust, just underneath the side compartment, so, with a 45* and a 30* elbow, I was able to angle the exhaust around to clear the door so I could open it with the stack connected. I welded a small bracket I made with a 3/8 nut welded to it, on the existing exhust, and one on the extension with a hole in it. I made a "thumb screw" to secure the pipes together, and a bracket that connects to the goatrail with one "thumbscrew" The stack slides in a rubber hanger on that bracket. I installed a rain cap on top of the stack.
The stack can be easily hooked up in less than one minute (excluding the time it takes to get off the roof) with no tools. I made a few brackets that I mounted to the diamond plate deck that's one inch above the aluminum so it won't chafe. I cut 2 pieces of 2"PVC pipe 3 inches long sliced about 5/8ths down the middle countersunk a few holes in each and secured them to the brackets with countersunk machine screws, along with a few strips of 2"velcrow. The exhust pipe snaps in the PVC and the velcrow secures it to the roof.
Last night I made a roof crane, so I can take a spare tire with me. It's light, strong and powered by a small strap winch. It can be broken down to conserve space, and the winch removed from the crane and pinned to the base plate mounted to the roof that supports the mast. With a "D" ring mounted opposite the tire, the winch hold it secured to the roof during transit. Easily sets up in less than 3 minutes, with no tools!
Today ,I installed a few one gauge ground straps from the batteries to the frame, another from the starter to the frame, and another from the frame to the body. I also installed a brake control, after removing the moniter for thr Remco trans pump. there were two wires running from the moniter under the dash to the trailer plug, so I was able to use one for the brake control, and have a spare for trailer back up lights. Now all I have to do is find the brake light switch, so I can run a wire from the controller, to the cold side of the switch.
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