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  #1  
Old 09-11-2012
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JamesR JamesR is offline
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Default Water Problem

AS I had previously posted, I was having a water problem when I purchased the bus.

Whenever I was attached to the site supply I had no water in the bus at all. I tried the tank system and found I had a bad leak coming from under the bed.

Today I decided to try to investigate the matter as I am leaving on a trip in a few weeks. I attached the hose to the bus and could hear water but only got a gurgle out of the sinks. I went outside and saw water running out of the driver side rear fender well.

I had taken vise grips and pinched off the tanks to eliminate any of that water. I could hear water gurgle under the driver side bedside cabinet.

I decided to tear into it. I removed the inside of the back hutch to get access to the plumbing around the connection to city. I saw no leaks back there and no sign of past leaks.

I removed the mattress, the side table, the corner next to the wall hiding the pipes that ran to the tanks, bathroom, and over across to the kitchen.



When I removed all of this I saw water in the channel all of the plumbing runs into. I could see copper corrosion from a leak that has been there for awhile.

The plywood under the bedside table is rotted and crumbled. This has been leaking for a long time. The culprit seems to be a 1/4 line that rubs on the edge of the plywood as the copper 90's down. (REPLACE)



As I looked around....BAMMMM, 1/2 line swelled and split from freezing...this is onto and under the bedside table...
You can see it at the top of the above photo right under the romex.

Then while I was cleaning out the trash, wet insulation, removing the blowout valve I found another split near the floor on another line, not the same circuit.



In this next picture you can see the water damage to the decking that is under the bedside cabinet. Terrible, this piece extends all the way back under the rear cabinet. I may just cut it out right at edge of cabinet and replace.



I may have a leak under the cabinet that runs the length of the bedroom wall towards the bathroom.
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  #2  
Old 09-11-2012
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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ouch!
There may be more leaks.
I hope you know how to solder copper!
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  #3  
Old 09-11-2012
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If the leaks are related to freezing damage, you may have additional leaks elsewhere, plus 'stretched' pipe that may split open at any time.

At this point, a question to ask would be is it better to expose, examine, and repair all the copper plumbing or should you re-plumb using PEX? It's hard to say what the better course is, but some further inspection of reasonably accessible pipe might provide some hints.
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  #4  
Old 09-11-2012
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Well so far it is related to the hot water line. The cold water was probably blown out good but not the hot. Both splits are on the hot side.

I am removing the bottom duct ways the plumbing runs in under the side cabinets the length of the bedroom. Right now I am removing the other bedside cabinet.

I have cleaned out the trash, a gazillion screws left in there from the original build. I used an air gun to dry out the wet areas also.

I plan to mount the lines better than they are and also soldered instead of the compression stuff in there.

I did find a line, 1/4", that ran from the tank area back up to the main connection area that connected to a valve with two or three connections that were just not connected to anything. Also there is a 1/4" airline running to that valve. This must have been a deletion for some reason.I can take a photo of it.

I will re-insulate and rubber wrap these lines. They have no partition between them and you can tell they rubbed in some places. I'm not to impressed with the way this was run.

On the bright side.....I know where everything is now!!!

I also am able to clean out, dry out, and organize some past repair hodge lodge. I found the wiring going to the water pump under the bed had 3 butt connectors and a wire nut within 20 inches.

One other problem is that the compression fittings are not like the ones at the store. Of course....

I will have to put in new tees, re-tiewrap and secure the heat lines they have on the water lines.
Anyone had problems with those copper mesh heater wires?
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  #5  
Old 09-11-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesR View Post
Anyone had problems with those copper mesh heater wires?
James:

Here's a good thread you may have already found in your search of the forum:

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...ight=heat+tape

Mike
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  #6  
Old 09-12-2012
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Mallie Lennon Mallie Lennon is offline
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James,, If you can stand a little heat in those areas, silver solder can make quick work of those splits. Takes a little more heat than a propane torch but may save you a lot of time replacing lines.
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  #7  
Old 09-12-2012
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Well after removing the chase ways the plumbing runs in on both sides of bedroom I feel it is easier to just PEX the entire system.

There really isn't that much to the system and I have just completed the cleanup behind these areas, removed carpet tack strips(re-carpeting). After doing this I may as well just replace the hot/cold and be done with it.

Heck I may not even put those lower panels back. I can make brackets to hold the lines under the side cabinets from view and have a few more inches of foot space, easier access....

Anyone done that?
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  #8  
Old 09-12-2012
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Ernest Ekberg Ernest Ekberg is offline
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On the side runs, you have heavy electrical cables with the plumbing. The side run covers can be made thinner, but not much.
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  #9  
Old 09-12-2012
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James,
I had a similar problem a little water leak.
To save all doubt I just re plumbed the entire bus with PEX easy to do, moderately priced, fast and no missed problems.
If you cant get the copper out just leave it in and work around it. What shape is the wooden floor under everything? Before you can redo any woodwork check your base flooring, if it's bad it's gotta get fixed to. I hate to say it but BB was rather creative with their plumbing and wiring. The 1/4 air line was probably the air line used to blow water out from the plumbing, just a guess, If it is, don't hook it back up to the original coach air system. Been know to let water back flow into brake and suspension systems.
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  #10  
Old 09-12-2012
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Well I have removed the water lines to the kitchen. I have to say I am figuring this stuff out. It is a little intimidating to start pulling panels out to find stuff.

I cut the two water lines to the kitchen right under the bedroom window. Cut the lines under the sink and kept working back and forth and up and down just in case one of those floor straps was where I couldn't see it. It finally came out.

Guess what? There was a near leak right behind the closet under the main panel. Corroded to all get out, and swollen.

I bought all the PEX this morning and spent about $340. I will return some of it as I made sure to get everything I might need. The crimp tool was $90ish, but it came with 3/4, 1/2, 3/8.
The two 5/8 copper lines that feed the bathroom and shower will now be 3/4 PEX.

I am actually glad to do this as it is nasty behind all this stuff. I had a resident that must have vacated his quarters and found a mummified one on the drive side.

I pulled the ice make and will clean it, vacuum behind the cabinets and under the sink.

The only rot I have found Kurt was under the bedside table. I purchased a little section of tub pan liner to put under there for now on. I see no floor rot anywhere. Doesn't mean its not there under the bus. I will check.

I pulled the rusted looking INSTA-HOT out from under the sink. Are these still around, serviceable, etc..?

I haven't looked at it at all.

About to run the kitchen lines after I eat a bite.
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