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  #1  
Old 11-11-2008
jcoop0001
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Default Adding an external connection for airing up

First off, Thanks to everyone who has got me this far.

One big problem for me as a new owner of a 1983 FC35 who was chasing many air leaks is that there is no way to air up the bus without getting under it.
There is an external connection in one bay on the drivers side, but it has a check valve in it so cannot air up. There is a schrader valve under the bus between the two tanks, but you have to get under it to air up.

My solution was to remove the schrader valve and extend it to the edge of the bus.

Here is a pic of the new connection to the fourway that is located between the two forward tanks.


You will see the copper pipe coming from the bottom and a new Low Pressure warning sending unit on top (one of my leaks).

The copper tubing extends to the side of the bus just under the propane tank on the curb side.

and here is a pick from the outside.


It seams to work really well for me.

Hope it helps
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  #2  
Old 11-11-2008
Bill Pape's Avatar
Bill Pape Bill Pape is offline
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Good Idea,

I like the pictures
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  #3  
Old 11-11-2008
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John,
The tow truck driver will thank you for the convenient connection. (hehe)
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2008
jcoop0001
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Default I hope not

Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
John,
The tow truck driver will thank you for the convenient connection. (hehe)
Hope I never have to say "You're Welcome" to that........
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  #5  
Old 11-11-2008
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mbrund mbrund is offline
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I would make one suggestion. Since the new connector is exposed and may get knocked off and cause a major air leak, you may want to add a gate valve back at the TEE in case such happens, or a check valve.
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  #6  
Old 11-11-2008
jcoop0001
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I have thought about that,

My thoughts where that if I hit something like that I think my propane tank would be a casualty also which would be a bigger concern.

It's pretty well protected and doesn't stick out past the edge, however I may weld a small piece of metal just forward of the connection to protect it.


If it does get damaged, a pair of visegrips would pinch off the line and I would be good to go.


Thanks for the suggestion
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  #7  
Old 11-11-2008
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rwoody rwoody is offline
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shut off valve is needed but..........you did good!!

now before you are done fix that gen set fan like i did on my old fc and above all get it rolling so you can enjoy the fruits of your labor!!!!!!
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Last edited by rwoody; 11-11-2008 at 09:44 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #8  
Old 11-11-2008
jcoop0001
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The genset is a whole nother story, it got hit twice by stationary objects. Think I will have to rebuild the whole drawer on that one. rite now it is held in by a tyedown strap and sitting about 1.5" to the rear. Think I will be doing the horizontal rad/fan when I get to that project.

I will be looking for a check valve that I can put inline where the old schrader valve was.

Thanks
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  #9  
Old 11-11-2008
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heck just a 1/4 turn ball valve from home depot will do what you want and not have to get under it when you want to clean the floor or air a tire or blow off water after washing the wheels ect......

go man go.....

that gen set door and slides aint much......4 idler pullys and some angle iron is the slide......

you can reuse the air cly setup or go elec actuator like my newer bus.
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2003 LX Single Slide Hauling Wood 5
2 miles east from Texas Highway 37-97
Just a Hobby Shop now-Bird Repairs upon Appt and my Schedule -USAR Retired
Pleasanton Tx 78064
Do not use PM... please use
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  #10  
Old 11-11-2008
jcoop0001
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[quote=rwoody;9512]heck just a 1/4 turn ball valve from home depot will do what you want and not have to get under it when you want to clean the floor or air a tire or blow off water after washing the wheels ect......


True, if I used a check valve then I could not use it for airing tires or anything else.

Think a ball valve is the way to go, just have to mount it far enough back to be out of harms way.

Love this forum..
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