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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 03-08-2019
hexspeed hexspeed is offline
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Default M380 Bay Door "Skin" Issues

Todd (RVinCT) has been quiet lately so I figure you 380 guys are getting restless for the next set of noob questions. Wait no longer - my list is growing! I’ll tackle them in related groups so we don’t have threads with a bunch of unrelated topics. Oh yeah, I have read every single thread in the M380 (Unique Issues) section so I (hopefully) can avoid bugging the gurus about things that have already been addressed.

TOPIC 1 - BAY DOOR ISSUES
SUBTOPIC A - ENGINE BATTERY DOOR
Picture 1 shows what the rear strut bracket should look like when properly in place on the back of the door. Note there are no mechanical fasteners — it looks to be just embedded in the resin. This contrasts with the front strut (Picture 2) which in addition to being embedded in the resin, does have one rather smallish screw that goes through it. Don’t think this was by design — that screw holds one of the louvers on. It looks like the strut brackets were originally painted. Pictures 3 & 4 show my problem. Over 14 years, moisture has gotten between the paint and the metal and created enough surface rust to allow the bracket to separate from the resin.

Anybody else had this issue, and if so, how did you fix it? Absent somebody’s real-world experience at fixing this, I’m thinking I can sand and repaint the bracket, chip as much of the separated paint as possible off the door, and glue the bracket back in place. Not sure what kind of glue to use so would welcome any suggestions. Am thinking something flexible would last longer than a rigid glue. Also open to any other recommendations.

SUBTOPIC B - DRIVER BAY 1 DOOR (air compressors, generator battery, etc)
On my initial trip, was hearing what I thought was a varying amount of wind noise below me that seemed to depend on speed and direction of atmospheric wind. While walking around the coach, I noticed that the “skin” on this bay door didn’t seem to sit flat with the bumper, and upon further inspection, noticed that it was loose all along the front lower side — a perfect wind catcher. Picture 5 shows the door “as is”; Picture 6 shows how much I can easily pry the skin away from the door structure; Picture 7 shows that I can put it back in it’s “factory” position with relatively little effort - note when I do this, the door frame is no longer visible. Again, there appear to be no mechanical fasteners holding the skin on (other than the mounting screws holding the bay door handle on).

So, has anybody else had this issue, and if so, how did you fix it? This one does not appear as simple as the battery door strut. Should I try to peel the entire skin off so I can clean the inside up before refastening (I don’t even know if it’s possible/feasible to remove the skin)? Or, just try to glue it back in place and caulk the loose area as best I can? Really would like the brain trust to weigh in on this one!!

Thanks
Jim
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Jim Beeson
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2004 M380 SS
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Old 03-08-2019
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Dc2x4drvr Dc2x4drvr is offline
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I used a Sikaflex adhesive on the most rearward left door, take the bracket off for cleaning and glueing, clamps and scrap wood finish to job.
The bay doors are glued to the metal structure. I would pull the door out and use Sikaflex to reattach.
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Old 03-12-2019
hexspeed hexspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dc2x4drvr View Post
I used a Sikaflex adhesive on the most rearward left door, take the bracket off for cleaning and glueing, clamps and scrap wood finish to job.
The bay doors are glued to the metal structure. I would pull the door out and use Sikaflex to reattach.
Thanks, Lance. Heading to 380 garage tomorrow and will pick up some Sikaflex on the way. Still not sure how easy it will be to get the skin loose enough from the bay door frame to get a good bond. I’m really concerned about cracking the paint if I flex the panel too much while trying to pull it off. I’ll take some pics as I go along and post them if I discover any tricks.
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Old 03-12-2019
Buck Buck is offline
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For what its worth...

I use Sikaflex 221 quite often. I am not sure which type of Sikaflex you are using but if you need to clean the area with a solvent, 221 does not like Alcohol based solvents. I typically use brake cleaner and have had very high success rates. I even use it and 3M VHB tape to attache my Traveler satellite antenna to my aluminum roof. No screws = no holes.
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Old 03-13-2019
hexspeed hexspeed is offline
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Thanks for the advice, Buck. These materials are new to me so I welcome all the help you guys send my way.

Jim
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Old 03-13-2019
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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I use the plastic wedges that home depot sells,they are for shimming doors and windows,but they work good for splitting the door skin off of the framework.
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Old 03-13-2019
hexspeed hexspeed is offline
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Thanks, Randy. Door skin repair is looking involved enough that I’m moving it down my list a little. In the middle of deep cleaning and $$ things like tires and toad brake system that I need to finish to be roadworthy. I can make the skin stable until I finish the other top items. I’ll update this thread when I get back to the fix you have all helped me formulate.

Jim
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Old 03-13-2019
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good plan,carry on!
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Old 03-28-2019
BBERIC35 BBERIC35 is offline
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Reattached our left rear bay door strut bracket using JB Weld two component epoxy product. Still holding fine.
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