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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 02-24-2018
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Default Water & Waste - Tips, Updates and Modifications

Starting this thread to showcase modifications that improve the water & waste systems, as well as tips & techniques to handle this necessary chore...

Adding Wire Basket Storage for the Sewer Hose on an M380 -

The fancy U tube dump hose storage in the compartment just aft of the drivers side rear wheels never worked for me. So I reclaimed that space by removing the U tube “contraption” and installed a basket (see pics below). Although McMaster-Carr has hundreds of baskets, some in stainless, they’re big $$. Instead, I found one at IKEA that fit perfect for < $3. Secured it at the back by snugging a couple existing bolts against the wire basket and in the front with a couple zip ties. The basket is positioned such that a stored hose can still be accessed via the small door, and the wire basket will allow the hose to drain after use so no more stinky hose in the “wet” bay.

There’s also room to add a shelf above the basket. Plan to place a plastic storage bin there so all the other dump paraphernalia will have its own place too .
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Old 02-25-2018
BBERIC35 BBERIC35 is offline
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Like your idea Van! This is going on my project list.
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Old 02-25-2018
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Nice, I'm putting this on my to do list too. What are the dimensions of the basket? Thanks
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Old 02-25-2018
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Never mind about the dimensions I clicked on the link you provided. Thanks again.
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Old 02-25-2018
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Default Slinky Dump Hose Storage Project - Final Result

Finished the Slinky Storage project. Removed the single basket and added a couple things: Bought another basket (only $2.25 at the IKEA store) and made a cage to hold the hose. Flipped the top one and riveted them together at the corners. Then cut an opening in front that lines up with the small compartment access door. Important - Used a hand grinder (not the hand file shown in the pics below ) to smooth the cut wire barbs so my hose isn’t “pricked” when putting it away or taking it out. Touched up the basket with white spray paint. Then put the basket back in. Should note that the left front radiator/cooler bracket needed to be notched with a jig saw to hold the basket frame. Bent the cutout metal back and then tapped it into place once the basket was in place. This holds the frame more securely. Use care to make sure that basket cage is not positioned too close to the front main compartment door. The joint between the two baskets or “lip”, should just sit on the right door bracket. And the cut out on the left side should be made such that the basket is level with the bracket support on the right side. With the two bolts at the back and two zip ties at the front, the basket cage isn’t going anywhere. A plastic storage bin can then be placed on top of the basket cage. Not sure how much wind the compartment receives, so might need to do something so the plastic bin doesn’t slide around? Perhaps a rubber place mat or maybe something to wedge it in place? Not planning to put heavy stuff in the bin so no need to put a solid surface on top of the cage... The basket cage could easily hold two and maybe three 10’ lengths of slinky hose, with an attached 90° elbow.


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Last edited by NoGas; 02-25-2018 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Added link to IKEA basket
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  #6  
Old 02-26-2018
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Very nice. Thanks
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Old 03-20-2018
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Default Changing to Valterra valves on M380 - partial repost from another thread

I grew tired of the always sticking Dupree valves. Had previously replaced both paddles and the new ones were already getting harder to pull, even with HF silicone lube. So ordered a dual valve Y by RV industry standard Valterra for $62. Changing out the valves was surprisingly easy. Recommend flushing out the tanks really well before starting this project! Problem paddles are now just a fading memory. Inexpensive replacement parts and simple 4 nut individual valve access without pulling everything convinced me. Smaller valve footprint gives more room so will add 3rd valve to allow combining the tanks when boondocking. New install allowed me to position a clear 45° downspout directly over the enlarged deck plate opening, to monitor dump “progress”. Valterra also makes electric valve models for more $$, but I prefer these KISS manual valves. Ordered a new 2-part 20’ slinky hose and purchased both from etrailer.com for less than Amazon. The Rhino Extreme 20’ hose fits nicely in new basket modification (see above).

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T84.html
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T58.html

Next up - In the past, water leaks & flow backs when disconnecting hoses dropped onto the wet bay floor and then flowed under panel into bay, sometimes causing it to smell. To solve this I will place a plastic cutting board (obtained from Walmart) below the wet bay panel an tilted to channel water drips directly out the bay door. Then will replumb behind the panel to add a swingout faucet with a hand shower wand accessory. Also need to plumb in the mini-water softener, which will be located forward by the water tank. Considering upgrading to a larger Watts-Premier water filter. Have one of their RO units in the house and love it. While it’s all open will definitely add a Tornado tank wash spinner for the gray tank (black tank already has a wash). Lastly, painted gray mounting panel for plumbing controls is boring. Really like the bus conversion buffed panels (especially the paper towel and soap dispensers! ). Only at the planning/gathering parts stage right now, but more details to follow...
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  #8  
Old 03-30-2018
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Default M380 Dometic/Sealand Drop Toilet Rebuild and Toilet Flange Crack

Leak from the Toilet/Black tank -

When using the coach we started noticing a chronic odor coming from the bay below the waste tanks. Leaking fluid was discovered on the floor in the short bay below them. Fearing a tank leak, the panels were removed and “fluid” was found pooling on top of the Sewage tank as well as running down the side of the tank. The cause of this leaking “fluid” was a cracked toilet flange which allowed “liquid” to leak through the floor opening, along the outside of the 3” toilet pipe, down that pipe, onto the tank and then it dropped to the bay floor below. From there, when the coach was parked on a tilt at a curb the “liquid” followed a corrugated SS floor channel to the opposite curbside door where it pooled and was eventually noticed. See picture of cracked flange, below. Any hole through the floor for a drain pipe (like the refer drain) sometimes allowed leaked “liquid” to pass onto the ground. The leak could also have been caused by a bad floor flange seal (second picture below) since Dometic drop toilets do not use wax rings like house toilets. This gasket was replaced. However, replacing the flange would’ve been difficult because it’s glued to the downpipe. So I repaired the flange with JB weld, then sanded the repair smooth and that solved the leak as well as eliminated the storage bay odor .

Rebuild of Dometic/Sealand Ceramic Drop Toilet w/ Hand Sprayer -

While the toilet was removed, the seals, rotating flush ball and water valve were replaced. All were working ok but at nearly 15 years old it was time. Parts were obtained via Amazon and the numbers can be found on the Parts List/Diagram picture below. There is a seal/ball kit that includes many of the parts. However, they aren’t cheap! On reassembly, I coated all gaskets and the ball seal with silicone gasket lube (also available via Amazon or any swimming pool store). Use care when selecting the lube to avoid anything with petroleum distillates since they can damage the gasket material. It’s very important to always replace the floor flange gasket when reinstalling the toilet! Mine was pretty well chewed up. A leak there or in the water supply valve can morph into a huge and expensive floor repair. The toilet flush mechanism now works way smoother than before and hopefully is good for another 15 years .
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Last edited by NoGas; 03-30-2018 at 10:04 AM. Reason: Revised title
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  #9  
Old 03-30-2018
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Nice upgrade Van, added to my list also..
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2018
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Default Progress report on wet bay project

Walmart cutting board laid across bottom of bay at an angle worked great. Now all water inadvertently spilled in faucet area drains out the door of the bay instead of onto the corrugated floor & into the bay behind. Refinish of the two aluminum mounting panels is complete. Tried silver paint and didn’t like it. So took all the paint off and used a cup wire brush to create the swirl pattern. Then clear coated both. Now working on the replumb job behind them, to account for a new swing out pot filler faucet and a real shower faucet/head. Have yet to figure out a temporary mount for that. Will keep the original hand sprayer. Finished installing a separate gray tank “Tornado” flush head in the opposite side and ran 1/2” Pex to where the 3-way diverter valve will be mounted on the wet bay side. Since my tank level system works fine, I’m keeping that as-is. It does have an issue showing LP gas though .

Lots of trips to Ace Hardware and HD for all the fittings. The brass quick disconnect fittings from Ace for the water softener that Ron recommended, are going to work great.
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