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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #11  
Old 05-03-2018
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Rick Rick is offline
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Nice!
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  #12  
Old 05-03-2018
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Very nice Van..!
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2018
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Default Upgrade the “flooring” in your Wet/Dump Bay to Drain OUT - M380

Thanks guys! Was asked how I did the wet bay cutting board floor. This upgrade for M380 owners (and maybe others) makes a huge difference in how clean one can keep the wet bay. Not having the tank flush out and fresh water back flow drain onto the corrugated flooring and then flow INTO your bay is HUGE! Even if you don’t do any of the other modifications in this thread, I’d highly recommend this upgrade!

Here are some details: I obtained two plastic cutting boards at Walmart. They’re the biggest ones they sell (about $10-$12 each). You’ll also need a tube of silicone and some scrap wood, like 1x6 & 2x4’s. HD often has a “Cull Box”, where they mark scraps way down. You’ll need a jug saw to cut the boards. A wood rasp to remove the uncut plastic burrs also comes in handy.

The lower vertical panel is attached to the floor and left side wall with screws. Remove these and lift the panel with the water fittings up. If you have a spring or squeeze clamp, use it to hold the assembly up and out of the way (without disconnecting anything). You could also tie it up. Then cut the floor support/spacer boards to fit. These go under the cutting boards and support them at the correct drainage angle. I used a small level to ensure that the cutting boards would slope out. You’ll want to place a solid 2x4 on its side under the area where the vertical aluminum panel is attached, along the bottom to give the screws something to grab onto. Fit the cutting boards side by side while they extend out of the bay, before cutting them. The boards are placed side-by-side. With the two boards sung against the back vertical panel and sticking out while sitting on the bay door jamb, mark the boards for cutting such that the jamb will be completely covered by the cutting boards. The left one will need a notch for the left door jamb and the rest of it should fit snug against the left wall. The right cutting board is cut out for the sewer dump area with an overlap for drainage. Use the non-grooved side of the cutting boards face up. They’re almost 1/2” thick so are pretty strong. Again use the 1x6/2x4’s as spacers under the cutting board to form a slight slope out of the bay & also to provide a screw attachment surface for the vertical panel. With everything cut to size and fit properly, take it apart and then glue it in-place with liberal beads of silicone. Use the cutoff pieces of cutting board as your back splash material. Once the floor is “down” the backsplash pieces are then glued to the sides and back. Lastly, run a bead of silicone along all the joints. With everything glued up, place weights on the new bay cutting board “floor” and let it all cure for 24 hours minimum. Once cured, drill and replace the lower vertical panel - gluing and screwing it in-place. I used longer screws that went all the way into the old floor and that secures everything properly.

Even if u don’t do other stuff I’ve done to the wet bay, this upgrade will help keep your whole bay cleaner and certainly dryer
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2018
Jim Brookshire Jim Brookshire is offline
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Really neat Van. But if you really want it clean and dry, you need to mount the big female thread flange for the sewer outlet on the UNDER side of the plastic pan. That will let that pan drain completely instead of holding 1/8” of water.
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  #15  
Old 05-19-2018
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Default Finished (almost) with new Wet Bay

Although not completely finished, the Wet Bay project is essentially done. What remains is plumbing the water softener, adding a dial pressure gauge (delayed delivery date from Amazon), labeling all of the valves & water connection points, and adding that fancy paper towel holder . Now I won’t be embarrassed after pulling into one of those fancy “resort” RV Parks, when my new neighbor wants to talk while I’m hooking up.

Some Notes -

1) On the upper panel I added a single lever shower control valve with a hand shower head on a 4 foot line and a swing out hot/cold bucket filler with 12” swing out spout. Finally, I added a valve to control whether the separate flush inlet water goes to the existing black or the new gray tank sprayer. On the lower panel, I changed out the fresh water inlet and tank flush inlets to chromed models. Everything including the Tornado Tank sprayer was purchased off Amazon.

2) If you do this, be prepared for some serious plumbing update work. BB used a rats nest of SS braided lines on their original plumbing. These were getting old and were crimped in a few places, so I went with PEX instead. For about 1/2 the PEX connections I used brass fittings with crimp rings from HD. For places where clearance was tight and the crimper wouldn’t fit, white plastic Flair-It fittings were easier (again purchased off Amazon).

3) Clearance between the back of the upper panel and the two holding tanks is tight. That’s why both faucets are mounted high on the panel with their inlets above both tanks. That tight clearance also means routing the H/C PEX lines via the side of the tanks, not straight down. It’s easier to keep H/C lines organized if one uses red and white lines.

4) The water supply line from the new sediment filter must stay clear of the door hinge “swing” area on each side. Since I’ve never once used that shutoff, I removed it to clean things up a bit.

5) When making a sharp 90° PEX bend, laying the tubing out in the HOT Phoenix sun for a few minutes made the bending easier. Having a reinforcing support ready to keep the bend at the angle you want, is handy.

6) The hand shower will be great for the beach. Need to figure out some sort of hose hanger and thumb shutoff/water saver at the end though. For now it’s stuffed into that white bag in the finished pics and hung from the diverter faucet.

7) Connecting everything with both panels in place was impossible. So I preplumbed the upper panel as much as possible. It was then loosely hung from the upper attachment screws and tilted out, so I could crawl under it to work from below.

8) Testing for leaks BEFORE you reinstall both panels is essential. Do I need to say why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Brookshire View Post
Really neat Van. But if you really want it clean and dry, you need to mount the big female thread flange for the sewer outlet on the UNDER side of the plastic pan. That will let that pan drain completely instead of holding 1/8” of water.
Jim - I considered doing that when I changed the small cover for the sewer hose to a larger one. Now a hose end fits through the new deck plate opening with ease. However when dumping, very little if any water falls into the plastic well. So, I mounted the new cover like the old one after cutting out for the larger opening.
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  #16  
Old 05-19-2018
al perna al perna is offline
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Very nice work Van . This project is at the top of my list and you pics and description will be a great help . Did you change or upgrade the water pumps ? Does the 380 have 2 or just 1 ? I think I would rather have more pressure than a back up pump .
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  #17  
Old 05-19-2018
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Default Water Pressure & Volume - Oxygenics RV Head Helps

Quote:
Originally Posted by al perna View Post
Very nice work Van . This project is at the top of my list and you pics and description will be a great help . Did you change or upgrade the water pumps ? Does the 380 have 2 or just 1 ? I think I would rather have more pressure than a back up pump .
Thanks Al. Like all big projects, this one took longer than anticipated. However, for this “Dumper & Chief” it’s worth it. The M380 has one water pump. Have a spare the PO included, but it’s still in a box. Adding the 6 gal electric Atwood water heater (that also acts as an accumulator) helped allot to smooth out the pressure of the entire system. When boondocking we do Navy Showers so volume & pressure aren’t an issue. Have used the older style Oxygenics RV shower head for years and highly recommend it. There are more conventional looking models now, but haven’t tried them. Those with more hair (not me ) will appreciate the power it has to rinse soap out of their long/thick locks.

Oxygenics 26481 Brushed Nickel Body Spa RV Shower Kit on Amazon
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  #18  
Old 05-19-2018
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Looks great!
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  #19  
Old 07-10-2018
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Default Portable Water Softener

Finished up installation of water softener. Installed it semi-permanent in front of the water tank bay secured with a come-along. Plumbed in, to the next bay using two SS wash machine lines and an old black rubber wash machine hose for the recharge waste line. Used lines which are long enough to permit removal of the softener while still connected. Substituted brass quick connects for manufacturer supplied plastic fittings. Connection of In/Out lines to coach was made by cutting the shore line such that now all incoming water runs through the water softener first before reaching the Sporlan Valve. That way either tank fill or city water will be soft.
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  #20  
Old 07-10-2018
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That is a cool addition! how do you regenerate it?
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