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Transmission Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's transmission.

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  #21  
Old 05-15-2018
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Originally Posted by globetrottin View Post
Rick, I agree with you that a relay in not necessary to do this repair. It was a suggestion made to me as "it can't hurt" which is probably true as long as the relay works. I think the only good that came of it for me is that it made me learn a bit about how relays work. I have amended my long description post of the repair to explain that your fused wire suggestion is simpler and leaves less room for error. I kind of wish I had skipped the relay part because it would have saved a lot of head scratching time for me, but in the end it's working and I learned a little something.

Thank You Bob. Relays have many uses and I use them. You can carry heavy loads, apply grounds, control opposite needs, run long control wires with light gauge wires and on and on. You can even change the function of marker lights with a simple relay but in this application I wouldn't use one.
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  #22  
Old 05-15-2018
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Originally Posted by Rick View Post
Turn the plug over so we can see the other side of it.


Just use the switched buss bar and attach a suitable gauge wire to that. Install a fuse inline and attach to the # 19 wire. That relay will add many unneeded connections and servers no purpose for this application. The run is very short, what less than three feet, and your not dealing with a lot of amps.
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Originally Posted by Rick View Post
What purpose do you think the relay serves? I would really like to know how it can have any effect. Just put the new power wire on the switched buss bar and the problem is solved. We ran our 90 SP tens of thousands of miles with this simple fix. And by the way, it was done by Precision Transmission. The runs are so short there is no need for a relay.
I think adding a relay is a better way to go because it looks like the voltage from the “Body Hot” stud passes through an Amp connector, goes through the ignition switch and then through another Amp connector before even reaching the switched Ignition Bus where it is shared with multiple loads.

By adding a dedicated relay you can use the somewhat overloaded ignition bus voltage to pick up the new relay and have the new relay supply voltage directly from the “Continuous” bus (where the voltage is more stable than the ignition bus voltage) via a fuse and a new wire to the ZF.
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  #23  
Old 05-15-2018
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Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
I think adding a relay is a better way to go because it looks like the voltage from the “Body Hot” stud passes through an Amp connector, goes through the ignition switch and then through another Amp connector before even reaching the switched Ignition Bus where it is shared with multiple loads.

By adding a dedicated relay you can use the somewhat overloaded ignition bus voltage to pick up the new relay and have the new relay supply voltage directly from the “Continuous” bus (where the voltage is more stable than the ignition bus voltage) via a fuse and a new wire to the ZF.
I agree with you John, plus why risk having 12V all the time directly wired to a critical component. With a relay you get 100% power only when it is needed. As the coach was wired by Blue Bird the relay shared power to other components not just the ZF. When Bob Esswin of Precision rewired mine he used a dedicated 12V through the relay and wired with a 10amp fuse to my ECU, not just a straight hot wire.
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  #24  
Old 05-15-2018
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Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
I think adding a relay is a better way to go because it looks like the voltage from the “Body Hot” stud passes through an Amp connector, goes through the ignition switch and then through another Amp connector before even reaching the switched Ignition Bus where it is shared with multiple loads.

By adding a dedicated relay you can use the somewhat overloaded ignition bus voltage to pick up the new relay and have the new relay supply voltage directly from the “Continuous” bus (where the voltage is more stable than the ignition bus voltage) via a fuse and a new wire to the ZF.
I don't really know what this all means I think I'm able to walk it thru, but...
I was for the relay before I was for the direct fused connection to the ign buss and now I feel like I'm back to the relay cause....why not?

My most pressing questions are what relays do I need to "stock" for future mods Bosch #XXXXX?
And what size fuse do I put in line whether I use the relay or not?
And if I use the relay I still use the Ign Buss to a fuse then to the #85 and "hot" Buss to fuse then to the #30?
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Last edited by Charlie Fox; 05-15-2018 at 05:06 PM. Reason: grammer
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  #25  
Old 05-15-2018
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  #26  
Old 05-15-2018
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Charlie, now that we all agree, it would be best to follow the BB and ZF service notes, hopefully most of these mods on ZF's will be the same for future owners.
In an FC the batteries, ZF ECU are only about a 2 foot run of wire, On the SP's the ECU could be under the couch or in a bay and the batteries are in the rear. This is not high current 8 to 10 amp fuses will be adequate.
Fuses, fuse holders, and Bosh/Tyco relays are stock items in auto part stores.
Get the socket and pigtail for the relay installation.

Just follow the drawing carefully and read Bob G's post on back feeding.
My memory is years ago since being involved in one of these upgrades,
So review the service note, Bob's notes and the Mark Bragdon write-up.

There are many, many relays in a BB, so carry a spare, although they are very reliable, It is an extra part that may need are placement
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  #27  
Old 05-16-2018
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Originally Posted by birds_first View Post
Mark Braggdon posted the ZF procedures for the voltage, when he rewired his on his 87FC, these should be found with a Google site search.
I'm looking and looking but I can't find this. Any ideas on where to look or what to search?
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  #28  
Old 05-17-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Pape View Post
Charlie, now that we all agree, it would be best to follow the BB and ZF service notes, hopefully most of these mods on ZF's will be the same for future owners.
In an FC the batteries, ZF ECU are only about a 2 foot run of wire, On the SP's the ECU could be under the couch or in a bay and the batteries are in the rear. This is not high current 8 to 10 amp fuses will be adequate.
Fuses, fuse holders, and Bosh/Tyco relays are stock items in auto part stores.
Get the socket and pigtail for the relay installation.

Just follow the drawing carefully and read Bob G's post on back feeding.
My memory is years ago since being involved in one of these upgrades,
So review the service note, Bob's notes and the Mark Bragdon write-up.

There are many, many relays in a BB, so carry a spare, although they are very reliable, It is an extra part that may need are placement

John Finn has these relays with the pigtails, I picked up a few from him when I bought my bird to put relays on my headlights. Easy ordering and fast shipping.
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  #29  
Old 05-17-2018
Charlie Fox Charlie Fox is offline
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https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...0TRANSMISSION/

This is where I started researching. Then branched off a million different directions, searching ZF voltage, relays...
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  #30  
Old 05-17-2018
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Originally Posted by kg4rrx View Post
I'm looking and looking but I can't find this. Any ideas on where to look or what to search?
It is labeled " notes ZF Precision Transmission" , in the files, Parent Directory "transmission"

https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...ansmission.txt
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