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  #121  
Old 02-05-2020
Randy Dupree's Avatar
Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Allison told me to run motor oil in my 84pt 40.
I also had a new ford truck with a 3126 cat and 545 Allison in it,the allison would sometimes make a heck of a noise shifting into 4th gear.
Kind of like a stalling noise.
It was under warranty and i took it to Allison,they said to change the fluid to motor oil and sure enough it cured it.
I think you should buy a can of "4th gear" and pour it in!!
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  #122  
Old 02-05-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
Allison told me to run motor oil in my 84pt 40.
I also had a new ford truck with a 3126 cat and 545 Allison in it,the allison would sometimes make a heck of a noise shifting into 4th gear.
Kind of like a stalling noise.
It was under warranty and i took it to Allison,they said to change the fluid to motor oil and sure enough it cured it.
I think you should buy a can of "4th gear" and pour it in!!
Thanx for the feedback Randy, what year vehicles were those that Allison said to run motor oil in? Also part of my strategy is to stick with ATF for now, if that doesn't work or change things and it may have to go to the shop then I may try 15w40 as a last ditch effort to avoid another mechanic touching my baby! I figure at that point why not experiment and maybe learn something as it's going into the shop anyways
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  #123  
Old 02-05-2020
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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my bus was an 84 and the truck was a 2000
I would be running some cheap stuff in your trans until you figure out the 4th gear problem.or the converter problem.
No need in wasting a bunch of money just to drain it all back out.
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  #124  
Old 02-05-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
my bus was an 84 and the truck was a 2000
I would be running some cheap stuff in your trans until you figure out the 4th gear problem.or the converter problem.
No need in wasting a bunch of money just to drain it all back out.
Agreed, but part of my concern was since I'm not having the tranny flushed out then there will be some mixing of oils and I didn't want to contribute to the problem. So this seem to be a good compromise for troubleshooting. I didn't say I learned the "easy" way.
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  #125  
Old 02-05-2020
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I do my flush like this,remove the outlet hose from the tranny,put a lnoger hose on and run it to a big bucket,have a trans funnel and a bunch of trans fluid handy,ready to pour.
start the engine and let it pump the old oil into the bucket while you fill the trans with fresh fluid.
Have a helper ready to shut the engine down.
On cars this is not so bad,on a bus it may get interesting!
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  #126  
Old 02-05-2020
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In the real transmission world it would go like this: On the road @ speed what happens when the shifter is cycled from 3/4 and back? No down shift from D will indicate whether direct is applying.
If no direct is noted, return to shop, using a large drain pan, remove plug and empty the sump. Then remove the pan and inspect for derbis, piles of metal or clutch material will tell the tale, no piles then it's a valve body issue/shift cable/modulator issue.
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  #127  
Old 02-05-2020
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Good Ole Bird Good Ole Bird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
I do my flush like this,remove the outlet hose from the tranny,put a lnoger hose on and run it to a big bucket,have a trans funnel and a bunch of trans fluid handy,ready to pour.

I do it the same exact way...
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  #128  
Old 02-10-2020
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OK.. this is getting old..

I removed the pan & filters and didn't find any metal particles and very little sediment on the magnets from the clutches. so that's the good news. I changed the filter, added new oil, then flushed the torque converter and cooling lines and topped off the tranny. Took her for a test drive and pretty much the same thing. Only difference now is it's actually harder to shift from 3/4 and actually feels like it decelerates as it tries to shift. Sometimes it "hunts" between 3/4 while shifting.

I did find an easy way to purge the torque convert & cooler with a simple piece of PVC. Turns out 3/4" fits tightly on the fittings off the tranny.

Question - the cable from the tranny to the throttle, does that affect upshift, downshift or both? I saw a report back from a WOG member that said to add a spring to that, mine doesn't have a spring nor a place to add one? I attached a pic of his spring

The governor was removed and appears to be functioning properly so the throttle sense cable is the only other thing I can think of before giving up and sending it to a shop.
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Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

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  #129  
Old 02-10-2020
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Did you check the governor screen... I doubt that’s the issue since you are getting the rest of your gears... but might as well clean it while you have it drained. Definitely need to adjust the modulator, that is determining the shift points.. the modulator will affect both upshift and downshift if adjusted too far in either direction. Either it will shift too quickly or shift too late... in the middle is the sweet spot..
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  #130  
Old 02-10-2020
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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Throttle cable needs to be stroked rearward fully @ wot. Tore down a 643 Friday, 4 clutch was toast, guessing yours is all gone. 4th clutch is the smallest in the trans.
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