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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #1  
Old 04-16-2011
oldfishhook oldfishhook is offline
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Default Seperate engine battery and install inverter/charger with sperate battery bank

I want to isolate the engine batteries and verify they are charging with the engine alternator. Seems they are not charging correctly and drain quickly.

So my plan is to have engine batteries and seperate house batteries with a inverter/charger.

Just getting started in planning so would like any suggestions.

Also not convinced generator is charging its starting battery so thinking of adding a trickle solar charger to that one.
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2011
mevans49083 mevans49083 is offline
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David,

You sure you don't already have separate engine/starting/house and generator batteries? My coach has 6 6V engine batteries and a separate generator battery up front that is already isolated to allow generator starting when the engine/house batteries get too low to start the big engine. Unless you have added an alternator to the front generator on your coach, it does not directly charge any batteries....rather, it provides power to the on-board battery charger/converters that then recharge all of the batteries.

I can tell you it made a huge difference in my charging setup after I replaced all battery cables and ground straps, and also upgraded from the original "battery boiler" single stage OEM charger.

Regards,
Mike
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  #3  
Old 04-16-2011
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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That was my original plan too. I hope you have better success at it than I have.

I appears the early Bluebirds were designed to have the house & engine on one large battery bank with the generator battery isolated so that you could combine the two & still start the engine or generator if you ran the house/engine bank down. With that design, the engine and house systems were intermingled. Between that situation and the aftermarket changes that have been made to my coach, I see no way to separate the engine and house systems without almost ripping out everything & starting from scratch.

Good Luck!

TOM
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2011
oldfishhook oldfishhook is offline
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Default BATTERIES

Added a fourth battery and better cables, still not happy with the charging system and inverter (PACS) going to pull the inverter and test it and do something about the battery chargers (killers). Thinking a new inverter/charger and perhaps a solar trickle charger for the gennie battery.

I would still like seperate battery banks for starting engine and the house load but will have to wait for now until I do more research.
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  #5  
Old 05-06-2011
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michael3536 michael3536 is offline
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David what did your coach come with for batteries?
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  #6  
Old 05-06-2011
oldfishhook oldfishhook is offline
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Default two large interstate 12v weighing about 80lbs each

I replaced them with 3 type 31's and just addd a fouth
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  #7  
Old 05-06-2011
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KCSS KCSS is offline
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Just checking - - you are aware the PACS is an inverter only - - - nothing to do with charging. IMHO "Don't fix it if it ain't broke." I left my PACS alone as it works perfectly - - - but I did add a Xantrex inverter/charger to deal with the batteries - - and provide additional inverter power if and when needed. So far not necessary
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  #8  
Old 05-06-2011
DW SD DW SD is offline
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Smile

Hi,
I have an '83 PT and wanted smart isolation, too. I built a system using a smart controller which ties the batteries together via continuous duty relays under charge and separates when the house battery bank is under discharge.

You can see the small black box controller here: http://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm

In my case, I attached the controller to a 500A Blue Sea Systems bus bar which ties all six of the positive legs of the 6V house batteries together. The main engine alternator 12V+ charging feed is also attached to the bus bar. But, I have the controller feeding two continuous duty relays. One ties the bus bar to the (8D) engine starting battery and a second ties the bus bar to the generator start battery.

If you read through the info on the above page, you'll see the controller outputs 12V+ at >13.6V. This triggers the relays to connect, so their attached batteries will charge. And the controller disconnects below <12.7V (house under load w/ no charging).

You'll find the controller to be about $40 shipped. Heavy duty continuous duty relays are about $35 from Ryder Fleet.
I made my own cables and interconnects from 4/0 and 2/0. The 2/0 I bought from a welding supply store and the 4/0 from DelCity, an online supplier of electronics components.

I have attached a picture, which I can walk you through if necessary. I'm not proud of it, but it may be helpful

Hope that helps.

Doug
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Charging system drawing.pdf (1,017.6 KB, 337 views)
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  #9  
Old 05-13-2016
oldfishhook oldfishhook is offline
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Default Install pure sine wave inverter and charger

I think I have everything I need to finally solve my charging , and battery issues. New wires, battery isolator, bus bar and inverter w charger , might need a few solenoids and fuses but we will see pictures soon
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  #10  
Old 05-13-2016
DW SD DW SD is offline
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Yes, some neat smart isolators exist from the marine industry these days which work great. I'd steer anyone towards Blue Sea Systems products, rather than the old static type isolators.
Good luck with your project!

Doug
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