FC Power Steering Hoses

[Bill Pape]

A few years ago the high pressure hose split, and replacement was not too difficult.
But while working behind the radiator, I decided to replace the Supply and Return hoses, There was a weep leak under the reservoir, and with old hoses, as the clamp is tightened to stop the leak the more it weeps.
It was easy to remove the supply hose , run the the hydraulic shop and purchase new hose, clamps and sleeving. It was a bear to remove the return hose, then disappointment sets in when it was a different diameter than the supply hose, So a return trip to the hose shop.
On the FC the reservoir set on top on the 3208 valve cover, a leak is really messy situation, this also makes for a difficult replacement as the hose runs forward across the engine making a 90* turn down and through the frame rail, after a few more turns, it is routed up behind the battery box to the steering gear. After the batteries were removed and several skinned knuckles success was achieved . Another one hour Job turned into two days and 4 or 5 hours of acrobatics.
Lesson Learned: hoses are different sizes, 3/4" and 5/8".

[birds_first]

Another one hour Job turned into two days and 4 or 5 hours of acrobatics.
Lesson Learned: hoses are different sizes, 3/4" and 5/8".[/QUOTE]

Ah you ole tight wad quit your complaining, there are small children in Africa who don't even have a blue bird. You're lucky! Don't butten up the hatch just yet we sent you the Power Steering Pump rebuild kit today via Fed Ex.

[Buckeye Bird]

I found this old thread on FC power steering hoses, and since I just replaced the high pressure line today from the pump to the steering box I thought I would add my experience.

I had looked through the forum but hadn't found anything in particular about replacing this hose. It may already be here and I missed it.

The end connected to the pump is easily removable from underneath and behind the pump. Finding and getting to the end connected to the steering box is another story. After removing the batteries (needed done anyways) I saw that it would be next to impossible to get to that hose from underneath. Then I opened the driver's side swing panel in the front and found there is an inset "box" on the bottom right under all of the 12v electrics. I pulled off the insulation and there were a couple of rivets to drill out to get the "box" out. At this point the high pressure hose end is pretty much staring you in the face and easy to remove.
Got a new one made up at the hydraulic shop and installed. The failure was caused by the hose chafing on metal edges. If you have an FC you may want to check this hose for any areas where it could be contacting metal edges. I wired tied pieces of plastic conduit over the hose anywhere I found areas that could chafe.

Luckily my return hoses look like they have been replaced and appear to be in pretty good shape.

[Hoagie]

Thanks Dan...Nice info to have

[tfiv]

I got my leaky pump rebuilt. When I went to put the supply hose back on, it split. I trimmed it and it split. Trimmed it, heated it, split. Not looking forward to fishing a new one down. Greasy, nasty, tight, arrgh.

[SD-Jim]

I recently discovered a loose belt on the rear pulley and disassembled the front end to access the belts, while I was in their the radiator was removed and sent to a local shop to be cleaned (boiled) and pressure tested to 17lbs. It passed with flying colors. (photo shown after test).

The power steering hoses also looked original and I decided I will change all three hoses out.

My questions are, the rubber hose from the oil reservoir to the pump (see photo), does this hose need to be non-collapse able and what have others used as a replacement? Secondly, the two hoses that penetrate the lower right frame rail (see photo) where do they terminate at? They appear to be going up under the drivers area. Bill Pape's post mentioned that they were behind the battery box.....

Thanks, Jim

[gcyeaw]

The supply hose needs to be non-collapsible. There are three hoses. First is the supply from the tank to the pump. Second is the high-pressure from the pump to the front of the power steering box. Third is the return hose from the rear of the power steering box back to the tank.

There is an access panel under the carpet at the base of the steering column. It is a pain to disassemble all the trim to get to it, and it is pretty tight quarters working in there.

[SD-Jim]

Gardner,
Your attached photo is a great reference, and appreciate the explanation on the three hoses. It will definately be a tight fit working between the seat and the steering columns, wish I was 10 lbs thinner!

Thanks, Jim

[gcyeaw]

Jim,
The high pressure hose enters the front of the steering box. There is not enough room for hands and eyes at the same time. I tied a wire to the hose to lift it into place because I kept dropping it and it would fall out of reach. I think I spent an hour or more trying to get it threaded into the box. The rest are much easier.

Here is a closer shot where the new front hose fitting is visible.

[Patrick LaBreck]

Jim,
If you ask the hydraulics store specifically for suction hose they will know what you need.
My '85 FC had 5/8" suction hose original to it, I was able to change both fittings, pump and reservoir to 3/4" for better flow. I obtained a new fitting boss for the back of the pump from BAB power steering in California that had a 45 degree angle 3/4" fitting. The original was 90 degree 5/8".

I am pretty sure I replaced my hi-pressure hose with single wire braid R-100 hose. I remember the pressure hose as extremely difficult, done from the top with a wrench heavily modified for the job. Section of a box end cut out so I could slip it over the hose like a tubing wrench.

I believe I also added a 45 degree JIC swivel fitting to the back of the pump to make it a much easier angle to the hole through the frame.

I think the improved suction line made a big difference in my rig. Of coarse all the changes were done at one time including a new sump filter.

Here is a pic of the pump fitting.