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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #11  
Old 01-28-2015
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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http://www.schaefferoil.com/diesel-treat-2000-fuel.html

Better off using this stuff, by the case it's not so bad. One can is right for tank full.
If a guy wants to use oil, I'd go with a heaviest straight weight I could find @ Tractor Supply and dump that in the bulk tank. Multi weights, synthetics etc have additives that you don't need to pay for.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2015
mpierce mpierce is offline
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The 2 cycle DD's are particular about being low ash oils, i.e. straight 40 wt. is low ash. What about any ATF, 2 stroke upper cyl. oil, etc? What are their ash properties?

One needs to be careful that we do NOT add ash back in to the system, while talking about how low ash oil is necessary. I do not know the answer, just wondering.

I personally do not use additives, except in winter.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2015
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From the research I have done, biodiesel up to 20% is beneficial to the engine as you get better pump and injector lubrication. However, even 20% biodiesel will cut the mileage down. Last summer I run a few tanks of 20% biodiesel in my pickup as it was $.20/gal. cheaper. I then compared my mileage and determined that I had saved $-.05/gal. using the cheaper biodiesel.
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2015
Rick Davis Rick Davis is offline
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Randy, I buy my Shaeffer Diesel Treat 2000 by the gallon, and with its high concentration it calculates out that about 6 to 8 ounces is needed per 200 to 250ish gallon fill-up. So what I do is use the little aluminum Coke bottles, using one per fill-up, meaning I fill-up two or three at home for along Bird trip. I find that these little bottles pour into my filler neck quite easily. Its always interesting when a trucker in the bay next to me sees me pour "Coca-Cola" into my tank. I love the look on their faces.
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  #15  
Old 01-29-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Davis View Post
Randy, I buy my Shaeffer Diesel Treat 2000 by the gallon, and with its high concentration it calculates out that about 6 to 8 ounces is needed per 200 to 250ish gallon fill-up. So what I do is use the little aluminum Coke bottles, using one per fill-up, meaning I fill-up two or three at home for along Bird trip. I find that these little bottles pour into my filler neck quite easily. Its always interesting when a trucker in the bay next to me sees me pour "Coca-Cola" into my tank. I love the look on their faces.
Rick is the stuff you are using different from the quoted stuff below? I'm thinking it must be if you only need 8 ounces. The stuff below is based on a 26 gallon tank. Here's an extract from the Diesel Additive Study. Shaeffer is 6th best on a list of 19 tested products. Pretty good............

THE RESULTS:

These results are listed in the order of performance in the HFRR test. The baseline fuel used in every test started at an HFRR score of 636. The score shown is the tested HFRR score of the baseline fuel/additive blend.
Also included is the wear scar improvement provided by the additive as well as other claimed benefits of the additive. Each additive is also categorized as a Multi-purpose additive, Multi-purpose + anti-gel, Lubricity only, non-conventional, or as an additive capable of treating both gasoline and diesel fuel.
As a convenience to the reader there is also information on price per treated tank of diesel fuel (using a 26 gallon tank), and dosage per 26 gallon tank provided as “ounces of additive per 26 gallon tank”.

In Order Of Performance:

1) 2% REG SoyPower biodiesel
HFRR 221, 415 micron improvement.
50:1 ratio of baseline fuel to 100% biodiesel
66.56 oz. of 100% biodiesel per 26 gallons of diesel fuel
Price: market value

2)Opti-Lube XPD
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
cetane improver, demulsifier
HFRR 317, 319 micron improvement.
256:1 ratio
13 oz/tank
$4.35/tank

3)FPPF RV, Bus, SUV Diesel/Gas fuel treatment
Gas and Diesel
cetane improver, emulsifier
HFRR 439, 197 micron improvement
640:1 ratio
5.2 oz/tank
$2.60/tank

4)Opti-Lube Summer Blend
Multi-purpose
demulsifier
HFRR 447, 189 micron improvement
3000:1 ratio
1.11 oz/tank
$0.68/tank

5)Opti-Lube Winter Blend
Muti-purpose + anti-gel
cetane improver
HFRR 461, 175 micron improvement
512:1 ratio
6.5 oz/tank
$3.65/tank

6)Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
cetane improver, emulsifier, bio-diesel compatible
HFRR 470, 166 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.87/tank
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  #16  
Old 01-29-2015
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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I use Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000 that I buy in 18 oz. cans. Convenient. It says on the can that 18 oz. treats 125 gallons. I only use it as it was highly recommended by a trucker friend. I have no idea if it has helped. Sounds like a good idea.
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  #17  
Old 01-29-2015
al perna al perna is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrueckwald View Post
I use Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000 that I buy in 18 oz. cans. Convenient. It says on the can that 18 oz. treats 125 gallons. I only use it as it was highly recommended by a trucker friend. I have no idea if it has helped. Sounds like a good idea.

But will you take on the Injection of the Diesel Treatment Ron
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  #18  
Old 01-30-2015
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I use a diesel product sold by A P Fischer Oil in Long Beach CA

I have used it for years in our Mercedes and when we got the Coach we use it there too. It takes only a small amount so really doesn't cost much and really reduces the smoke.

It's true that ATF isn't what it used to be but power steering fluid is.

All the fuel additives help reduce freezing and give a cleaner burn. In the Mercedes T-Ds it makes a mileage difference too really works on the Autobahn
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  #19  
Old 01-30-2015
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Labrador Labrador is offline
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Truck stops are full of commercial trucks buying hundreds of gallons of fuel at a time, and virtually none of them are supplementing with fuel additives (except in VERY cold climates). The big truck fleets that run thousands of trucks would stand to benefit from using additives if they actually increased fuel economy or reduced maintenance requirements.

None of the big fleets use fuel (or oil) additives. None of the engine manufacturers recommend additives.

The engine manufacturers and petroleum companies work very closely and spend millions on dollars researching fuel properties; the engine manufacturers design their engines to run on the fuel composition available at the fuel pump. The engine company representatives I have talked to (Detroit and Cummins) have told me that fuel and oil additives are generally snake oil and can actually make the fuel or oil chemistry WORSE.

An analogy is if somebody else cooked a stew, would you step up and start throwing spices in without knowing what the ingredients were? Fuel and oil addives are the same: you are changing the chemistry without knowing what you are doing. If there were magic formulas that made fuel (or oil) work better JB Hunt, Schneider National, or other companies that run thousands of engines all day every day would be adding them. It does not make sense that they be leaving money on the table because they don't know what they are doing but motorhome owners that recreationally drive 10,000 miles a year (or less) knows more about keeping an engine running than they do.

I'm not a petroleum engineer or an engine designer so I have to defer to the expertise of people who are: none that I have found recommend additives. Additive manufacturers recommend additives. Additive manufacturers use our lack of knowledge about how fuels (and lubricants) actually work to sell us products that we don't need.

Just my two cents :-)
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Last edited by Labrador; 01-30-2015 at 11:32 AM.
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  #20  
Old 01-30-2015
mpierce mpierce is offline
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I use nothing as regular additive in my over the road semis, running 150k a year. Antigel is used at times in the winter. I could see using a biocide in diesel when you do not use regularly, such as a MH.
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