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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #31  
Old 07-19-2017
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chokmah chokmah is offline
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Thanks, Mark. I think I will have to go with a conventional compressor and buy a pure sine wave inverter for it. I don't know how accurate it is, but I have been using the estimated yearly electricity use on the yelllow Energy Guide sticker to compare models. Theoretically, you can divide that by 365 and see how much power it would use in a day.

My favorite so far is the Whirlpool WRT111SFDB (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpool...SFDB/205629360). It has the condenser coils on the back so I think with the addition of a couple of DC fans, the efficiency could be increased. If I have room, extra insulation could be added to the sides and top of this model. I think I need to remove the old Dometic to get some measurements before I can be sure what will fit.

Sorry to sort of hijack an M380 thread.
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  #32  
Old 07-19-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chokmah View Post
Thanks, Mark. I think I will have to go with a conventional compressor and buy a pure sine wave inverter for it. I don't know how accurate it is, but I have been using the estimated yearly electricity use on the yelllow Energy Guide sticker to compare models. Theoretically, you can divide that by 365 and see how much power it would use in a day.

My favorite so far is the Whirlpool WRT111SFDB (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpool...SFDB/205629360). It has the condenser coils on the back so I think with the addition of a couple of DC fans, the efficiency could be increased. If I have room, extra insulation could be added to the sides and top of this model. I think I need to remove the old Dometic to get some measurements before I can be sure what will fit.

Sorry to sort of hijack an M380 thread.

I don't think adding additional fans that use power would increase efficiency of the system. If anything you would have less efficiency. It may cool better but at the cost of more power used.
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  #33  
Old 07-19-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick View Post
I don't think adding additional fans that use power would increase efficiency of the system. If anything you would have less efficiency. It may cool better but at the cost of more power used.
Rick, I think you are right. As long as it cools well enough, why have fans running? I may install them and have a switch so they can be disabled as long as the refrigerator is cooling ok.

I know usually fans are installed. Even the new absorption units are coming with fans on them, but it is so they will cool better, not to save power.
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  #34  
Old 07-19-2017
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Seems to me if you get rid of heat from the refer, to the outside with computer fans, it will cool better. If it cools better it won't run as much which will save power.
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  #35  
Old 07-20-2017
Joatha Joatha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halkading View Post
Seems to me if you get rid of heat from the refer, to the outside with computer fans, it will cool better. If it cools better it won't run as much which will save power.
Yes. Getting rid of the heat will certainly help the refrigerator. But, will the overall energy consumption drop? It depends. If the energy used by the fans to exhaust the heat exceeds the extra energy used by the refrigerator to cool the unit a warmer enclosure, then it would not save power.

You have to have a fan that is efficient enough in order to save the refrigerator more energy than the fan burns. That may not be as easy as you think.
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  #36  
Old 07-20-2017
lcondosta lcondosta is offline
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After replacing my cooling unit 1200.00 on my Norcold 1200 frig. it had a fan tray that would accommodate four electric fans that I installed. Also installed a manual switch to override the automatic sensor . At Oshkosh 2016 Air show it was hot and the frig would not stay cool in the frig. part but the freezer was ok. After several calls to the the manufacturer and throwing away a ton of food and my wife was HOTTT. I installed a Samsung RF18. Best money I have spent in a long time.
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  #37  
Old 07-20-2017
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If you install a Samsung RF18 there's no need for a pure sinewave inverter as it has its own inside. I have a PS so can't tell you if that's true. In high ambient temps outside fans and also one inside the box, help a Gas Absorption RV refer. However, house fridges rely on interior air for cooling. If you have AC in your coach you already have that. But don't plan on using a house fridge with very high temps inside the coach - say in storage the night before a trip to cool it down and pre-stock it (like you might do with an RV style ice cream melter). The RF18 box cools down fast so cooling it down the night before is unnecessary. I found that my Samsung operates best at the same ambient temps I operate. It does not cool well and sometimes not at all, when interior coach temps are in or above the 90 degree range. It is 33" wide so might fit where 36" wide models won't.

The Samsung RF18 going price at Lowes & HD right now is $1,200 +/-. Around Labor Day, I bet you see it for under a grand.

So Eric, what'd you decide?
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  #38  
Old 07-20-2017
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Has anyone researched if it would be more efficient to install a small inverter for just the Samsung to minimize battery draw?
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  #39  
Old 07-20-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwinter1946 View Post
Has anyone researched if it would be more efficient to install a small inverter for just the Samsung to minimize battery draw?
Maybe. Depends on your main inverter/charger. If using an older MSW unit, powering the refer with a smaller dedicated inverter might make sense. That's especially true if you usually turn your main inverter off at night to save battery power. If you do the smaller inverter, spend a little extra on that dedicated inverter and get a pure sinewave model. IF you have a newer inverter/charger (like my Magnum MS2812), it might have a standby mode. On mine, the inverter switches to low power standby mode if it sees no load for a couple minutes. The amount of time and current it needs to see to switch on are both adjustable. Standby mode uses minimal power but constantly searches for a load. Then when it sees a load, it switches ON instantly to provide power to it. With a "smart" inverter like this, a mini-dedicated inverter just for the refer doesn't make sense because the big inverter's power use when in standby is minimal. So, like I said... Maybe.
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  #40  
Old 07-22-2017
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Mallie Lennon Mallie Lennon is offline
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Anytime amps are pulled, volts go down, rate depending on design.

comparing yearly electrical draw on different fridges does not show the whole picture. The inverter fridge has no increased starting amp. Typically, the inverter fridge does not turn off, it just adjust to load, creating a lower run amps.

Take a typical fridge that draws 5a running. Starting can be 5 times that, now you have 25a draw on inverter and 10 times that on the 12 volt batteries, assuming 100% inverter conversion. You say that is only for a second. Yes, but If your battery pack is near depletion, it can easily overload the inverter and cause shutdown.
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