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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 08-31-2019
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Mikenjackie Mikenjackie is offline
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Default Co-ax cable for DirecTV dish

This year at Q I purchased a DirecTV package in The Big White Tent. They installed it & it worked OK with the dish going thru a window to the receiver.I then put the Quest portable DirecTV dish on the roof & hooked it into the "cable" input (next to the power cord) outside my bus to avoid running the RG6 cable thru a window. Lately, though, the signal has got worse, pixelizing the image, even losing the HD signal. Running a cable directly from the dish (on the roof) thru a window to the receiver has taken care of the problem. When I measured the resistance along the signal wire, I was getting 45 ohms, even after cleaning up all the co-ax connectors I could see. I don't know if it's simply the length of cable (more than 80') or something else. So I want to run an RG6 directly thru the roof.

Where is the best place to do this?

I'm looking at 2 locations; either above the instrument panel above the co-pilot's seat, or directly behind the TV over the driver; both places I can drill a hole in the roof & see where it comes out on the inside. I was hoping to thread it down where the horns go through the roof, but can't see any way to get at the cable once it's through, short of taking the ceiling down. Any alternative method that avoids making holes would be appreciated, if one exists!
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Last edited by Mikenjackie; 08-31-2019 at 06:15 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-31-2019
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Your best bet is to run a separate cable thru the roof..... I'll guess your outside cable input is routed thru an amplifier. That's what is probably stopping the satelite signal
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  #3  
Old 08-31-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atckip View Post
Your best bet is to run a separate cable thru the roof..... I'll guess your outside cable input is routed thru an amplifier. That's what is probably stopping the satelite signal
I just redid all my TV stuff and Kip is spot on. The cable from the old saucer antenna goes to a rotary box then from that it goes to an Archer booster, then from that to a multioutlet box. The one that says Front, Bedroom, VCR etc. etc. I gutted all my stuff when I put in a new Rayzor antenna on my coach. I put a barrel bolt connector from the incoming coax. to the coax going directly to the Razor "panel" that directs everything. The less connections that you have the better signal you will have. I cannot believe the quality of the signal and the number of channels I receive now. Everything is High Def. When before I never got anything but the weakest signals and nothing High Def. I would imagine this is even more relevant when hooking up a satellite.
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Old 08-31-2019
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Ours has a coax above the passenger seat that goes to the mast antenna.
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Old 08-31-2019
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I might think the problem is in one of your newer cables. Cut back a few inches on each end if you can and recheck the ohms.
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  #6  
Old 08-31-2019
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The park cable is designed for low frequency radio signals...the satellite dish uses a higher frequency and voltage for polarity switching...the coax in the coach is probably RG59 and may only be rated for 50-950Mhz when the satellite signal is 1450-2050Mhz and needs to pass the 13 or 18 volts...and sometimes the satellite system also sends a tone to trigger some functionality as well...

You can use 1 pole power passing diplexors to share a single cable for low frequency and high frequency, but you still need to elliminate the power amp and splitter etc...

Long story short...run a new RG6 of good quality capable of up to 3Mhz frequency...leave the other there for park cable..as it was intended...
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