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  #41  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
MRPutz's Avatar
MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
Whats another project for Mike?
It may have been quicker to put the engine in the springer?

You may be right!
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78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
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  #42  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
markusfmeyer markusfmeyer is offline
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I feel your pain Mike. I bought a house two years ago that had been abandoned. It was all copper including the old radiators. I decided to rip them out and go with forced air, gaining ac in the process. Left the water supply as copper though. Good decision as several radiators and the lines to them that I tore out were cracked and split. Only had one or two leaks in the downstairs bathroom copper that needed to be fixed. Would have been a nightmare if I had tried to keep that old heating system. A prior house I bought I just tore all the plumbing out and replaced with PEX, much easier to work with for someone who doesn't like soldering, and way fewer connections.
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  #43  
Old 1 Day Ago
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MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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Default Update - Where do I begin?

Well been a few weeks since I updated the progress on the new bus.

1) First I had to put new shoes on her. Of course she was out of town so had to take all the wheels off the 78, have new tires mounted, then haul them up North, remove the old wheels, then install the new wheels. Nothing like changing 3 sets of 6 tires for some exercise!

2) After completing the leak witch hunt and fixing/replacing all the pipes (I hope) I was ready to take it to her first rally - White Tanks. Only got 10 miles when I hear a loud noise, some grinding, and then saw the air brake pressure dropping. I turned around and made it home before the spring brakes applied. Looking through the engine compartment I saw the fan rubbing the shroud, belts hanging, and the fan clutch wire wire bracket...gone!

3) Good thing this has a swing radiator! with hoses removed you can actually swing it open 160 degrees so real men can actually work on the engine! (well, real big men)

4) I found some missing bolts and some loose bolts. One missing bolt held the support bracket for the fan clutch wiring. Once gone the bracket spun and took out all associated wiring. Also with the other loose bolts it allowed the fan to droop forward and rub on the fan shroud.

5) Once I assembled the fan clutch I could feel some dragging going on. I took it all back apart and found the shim needed to set the clearance on the fan clutch was missing. That explains the noising fan clutch issue when I purchased the bus. So I added some shims until it turned freely and tested the clutch. All felt good so put her all back together

6) As I tried to figure out everything I noticed some interesting things.

- The Compressor/Alt/Water pump belt was too short and caused the alternator to rub against the radiator bypass hose plumbing (another incident waiting to happen) I lengthened those belts 1/2" and that gave the clearance needed, plus future stretch will bake it even better.

- There was a belt missing on the Compressor/Alt/Water pump so I added one back. But then it was hitting the bottom alternator mount swing bolt. After inspection I found that bolt was in backwards so turned it around and now have clearance for the 2nd belt.

- then I noticed the Fan to Crank belts were too long. This will allow the fan to come in contact with the upper shroud when you tighten the belts. So i replaced those with 1/2" shorter belts and that brought the fan down more to the center of the shroud.

- While the front was opened up I found evidence of rodents under the bus floor. Lots of chewing going on there and exposed wiring. The previous owner mentioned electrical issues up front so I might have found that issue! I replaced the chewed wiring and cleaned it up a bit.

She's now all back together and passed the check ride with flying colors! the fan is smooth and makes very little noise, even when the clutch engages. Very happy with it now.

This weekend I think I'll throw 600 watts of solar on her as I have some 300 watt panels laying around. That way she'll be on her way to being an off grid lady like her sister. Later I'll double the solar once we get everything else up to speed.

Quartzsite here we come!
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Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

FMCA #236459, Good Sam #17270530, Vintage Birds #1509
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  #44  
Old 1 Day Ago
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Steelwheels Steelwheels is offline
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Holy swinging radiators, those things seriously swing. You could get a few guys in there to work.

You could probably get some better cooling with a new plastic fan might help out in lovely AZ.
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  #45  
Old 1 Day Ago
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MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelwheels View Post
Holy swinging radiators, those things seriously swing. You could get a few guys in there to work.

You could probably get some better cooling with a new plastic fan might help out in lovely AZ.
Yea, if you don't try to extend all the hoses and simply collect the radiator fluid you can really open these puppies up and do some real work. Nice thing is you can have all that completed and opened up in 30 min.

I actually tried to put a plastic fan on but the off set was too great and it interfered with the clutch wire mount behind the fan. I'll have to do some research and find one that will fit. I like the lighter fan on those bearings.
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Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

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  #46  
Old 1 Day Ago
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shaaksma shaaksma is offline
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All that labor is just going to be harder to decide which one to keep!
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  #47  
Old 1 Day Ago
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Nice job with the pics.
But i want to give you a few tips.
The fan bracket with the 4 bolts and the flat bars that the bolts go through?
take a look at the pic,the flat bar on the lft is on backwards,see how the bolt holes are offset?
The short side needs to go against the fan bracket,the way its on in the pics means the bracket will not lay flat against the fan bracket and the bolts will break or come loose.
Also,the shim your saying was missing,you need to make sure that shim is the correct thickness.
If its too thin the fan will engage,but its a "hard"engage.
Meaning the clutch makes contact like a AC compressor on a car.
This clutch needs a "soft" engage,meaning the clutch does not make contact,its a magnetic drive.
If the clutch connects hard it will jump the belts off,or break them.
I made all of those mistakes myself!
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  #48  
Old 15 Hours Ago
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MRPutz MRPutz is offline
Burnin Up in Az. :-)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mesa
Posts: 4,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
Nice job with the pics.
But i want to give you a few tips.
The fan bracket with the 4 bolts and the flat bars that the bolts go through?
take a look at the pic,the flat bar on the lft is on backwards,see how the bolt holes are offset?
The short side needs to go against the fan bracket,the way its on in the pics means the bracket will not lay flat against the fan bracket and the bolts will break or come loose.
Also,the shim your saying was missing,you need to make sure that shim is the correct thickness.
If its too thin the fan will engage,but its a "hard"engage.
Meaning the clutch makes contact like a AC compressor on a car.
This clutch needs a "soft" engage,meaning the clutch does not make contact,its a magnetic drive.
If the clutch connects hard it will jump the belts off,or break them.
I made all of those mistakes myself!
Thanx Randy, did not catch that bracket being on backwards. I replaced and tightened bolts, resized belts, and rewired the clutch. I'll have to go back and look at that again.

The clutch shims I've got down after fighting the same issue on a used one I purchased a few years ago that was also missing a shim. I found "machinist washers" at Ace Hardware that are perfect for the job. I have it currently shimmed about .020 now and seems to be working good. Just for others to note, you must use more than a .020 shim to obtain the .020 clearance.
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Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

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  #49  
Old 15 Hours Ago
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRPutz View Post
Thanx Randy, did not catch that bracket being on backwards. I replaced and tightened bolts, resized belts, and rewired the clutch. I'll have to go back and look at that again.

The clutch shims I've got down after fighting the same issue on a used one I purchased a few years ago that was also missing a shim. I found "machinist washers" at Ace Hardware that are perfect for the job. I have it currently shimmed about .020 now and seems to be working good. Just for others to note, you must use more than a .020 shim to obtain the .020 clearance.



I made the mistake once when rebuilding the fan clutch on an old FC,it was in bad shape nd i did the rebuild and i thought (wrongly!!) that the clutch needed to make metal to metal contact to engage,so i put the spacer/shim in the lathe and turned it down.
After that there was no slipping of the clutch and it started breaking belts and all kinds of other belt related stuff.
Years later i realized it was a magnetic drive,not a mechanical drive.
So you figured it out before i did!


The brackets we figured out had the offset holes on Finns coach,i had never messed around with a lot of FCs back in those days,and the guys that worked on them before never figured it out either.
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  #50  
Old 14 Hours Ago
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MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
Years later i realized it was a magnetic drive,not a mechanical drive.
So you figured it out before i did!
Actually Randy they do come into contact. You need a small gap to keep them separated but close enough so that when the fan clutch is energized the friction plates slap against each other and make contact. That's why you see a radial pattern on the clutch so it can "flex" a little. Too much gap and it won't make good contact and can slip generating heat and running the clutch. Too little gap and it can "drag" and build up heat.

It works the same as an automotive compressor clutch. Here's some verbiage from a site that explains it better than I;

"When the electromagnet turns on, it produces a powerful magnetic field through the rotor. Since the fan belt rotor and the air conditioner rotor are both made out of iron, the magnetic field magnetizes both of them, pulling them towards each other. This causes the friction plates to push tightly in to each other. Initially, the rotor friction plate is turning and the compressor friction plate is not. Once they are touching, however, friction between the two plates makes the air conditioner rotor spin. When the electromagnet is turned off, the friction plates spring apart and the compressor stops moving."

Here's a good video showing how they flex; https://youtu.be/v-nMDFvSjFk?t=269
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Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

FMCA #236459, Good Sam #17270530, Vintage Birds #1509

Last edited by MRPutz; 14 Hours Ago at 01:23 PM.
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