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Generators In this forum we will try to answer any of your questions about the different model generators that can be found on Blue Bird coach's.

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  #21  
Old 05-31-2013
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KCSS KCSS is offline
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As I've posted before we used these AMP connectors in the audio business. I have literally done thousands of these and they do require a special extraction (cheap) and crimping (expensive) tool to do correctly. The extraction tool is nothing more than a small thin wall tube with a sliding solid pin inside. Inserting the tube collapses the barbs and the solid pin pushes the pin/socket out. The crimping tool is rather elaborate in the way it double folds (locks) the wire on the pin/socket. If you use another crimping devise chances are you will not fold the collar part of the pin tight enough which will prevent the pin (or socket) from fully entering and seating in the connector. No special tool is required to insert the pin. They just push in and are locked in with the barbs. You will feel and hear the pins snap into place. If you are not sure you can try to spread the barbs a bit before inserting. A properly inserted pin/socket can not and will not back out.
Sorry for the long winded explanation but I felt it was necessary do to the increasing number of problems attributed to working with these connectors.

Bottom line - you can always wire around (bypass) the connector
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  #22  
Old 05-31-2013
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Thanks KC for your input; here are a few pictures of the barbs on the end of the wire. I took one on the wire and one of the barb after I pulled it off. Now we're off to Onan for new pins. I hope Grainger has our tools.

What I thought was barbs around the wire is actually where the pin is wraped around the wire to hold the pin in place plus crimping the pin. But in this case the Onan folk crimped to hard and the pin sheared off inside the plug assembly causing a broken circuit. The generator heated up or viberated and the broken pin would seperate shuting the generator down.
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Last edited by birds_first; 06-01-2013 at 01:05 PM. Reason: Corrections
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  #23  
Old 05-31-2013
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Good find John! I think that this explanation and trial is a good thing. You may of found the root cause of your no start at the Onan but all other locations works fine. I can't wrap my head around why it would start from inside the coach but nada outside. The LOP (low oil pressure) switch should work or not work in all locations. But hey, if this fix works then we've learned something.

I had a problem with the cannon plug too many times. My latest time was at Hershey. We (Mark B & Bill P) secured the plug with a few wire ties. It has been fine since.
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  #24  
Old 05-31-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birds_first View Post
On wire 11A we can see the barbs still attached to the loose wire which came out of the pin in the plug; I don't know the particulars of the extraction tool I'm just going by what the 20+ year GE electrical tech tells me. I don't have the tool or pins in my hand. We'll see later on today we hope. I can say the wires are inserted into the hollow pins and there are barbs that hold the wire in place. But in this particular case the wire holding barbs did not stay inside the pin. So far we can not see if the pins are or are not crimped.
20 + year tech - that explains it - you have one of the "new" guys helping. Just give him a few more years to get broke in. All kidding aside once you have the replacement pins in your hand you'll see what we're saying.
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  #25  
Old 05-31-2013
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John M.
I thik i have a crimper tool,if i can find it i can mail it to you,if you want to rent it from me
Hahahaha!! Just kidding about the rent!
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  #26  
Old 05-31-2013
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I had a couple of those pins go bad a few years ago. I just removed the associated wires and bypassed the (annoying) cannon plug. Problem solved. No big deal.
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  #27  
Old 05-31-2013
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Mission complete we now have a generator that will start from every location on the bus and here is a photo of the repositioning on the control box. I will start a new thread on Onan Pin Replacement.
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  #28  
Old 05-31-2013
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Thanks John,we look forward to the Pin thread.
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  #29  
Old 05-31-2013
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Here is the video showing vertually no vibration on the control box after the remount. happy, happy, happy... http://youtu.be/JqpKabDtF_E
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  #30  
Old 05-31-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCSS View Post
As I've posted before we used these AMP connectors in the audio business. I have literally done thousands of these and they do require a special extraction (cheap) and crimping (expensive) tool to do correctly.

Bottom line - you can always wire around (bypass) the connector
Hey KC--

What would you say if you had these Onan/cannon plug issues in your sound panels? Would it be "Just another day at work"?

Or are burned/bad pins more like "Time to get the AMP rep in here for some heavy-duty soul searching."

Thanks, just fishing for an opinion, really, about whether the problem with Onan cannon-plug-in-the-exposed-and-vibrating-application is a special case where big twist-lock plugs are the best solution, or if they are meant for stable platforms. You know, like theaters

--Ned
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