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Generators In this forum we will try to answer any of your questions about the different model generators that can be found on Blue Bird coach's.

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  #11  
Old 08-12-2013
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jyclegg jyclegg is offline
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Ed, Did you find your problem?
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Jon Clegg
1988 WB40PT "Paradise"
Cross Creek RV Park, Maggie Valley NC
www.xcreekrv.com
35°31'08.6"N 83°03'38.8"W
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2013
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warbucks13477 warbucks13477 is offline
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john thats the schematic for the control box. both my previous FC35 and present PT40 had a Kohler operation and seevice manual showing not only how to rebuild and troubleshoot the Perkins diesel but explanation of how the control box works electrically woth parts break down etc Tje ma ual is nice since I believe it is easier for most of us to figure out how the different parts of the kohler works. from what I have seen the yanmar comtrol box aworks the same. the comtrol box in this thread appears to me to have been modified for some reason. Might be an intermittent connection stoppimg the fuel solenoid to be erratic and/or may be a racor fuel issue also. Hope this helps. John is there a copy of the manual in the archives.

one more thing to add. If you can hold in the fuel solenoid and the generator will run, then that show that the electrical sequence for the control box is alrigjt? why, because the next to last sequence is activation of the starter solenoid, amd its a set of points in the starter solenoid that sends 12VDC to the fuel solenoid. You can check to see if the fuel solenoid is alright by running a wire from the positive post of the battery to the fuel solenoid and see if you can activate it. Tje diesel does not jave to be running to check this.
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Last edited by warbucks13477; 08-12-2013 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Added something more
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  #13  
Old 08-12-2013
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According to my Yanmar/Kohler manual troubleshooting section, it says that it could possibly be a clogged fuel filter, or a defective fuel feed pump. For the no AC output issue, it says to check the AC breakers, no DC power to the controller ( check battery connections) or that the fuse in the end bracket is blown; other less likely problems could be sticking brushes or broken brush leads. Don't know if this will help - good luck
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Newberg, Oregon
1987 PT40 (SOLD)
F75399
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  #14  
Old 08-12-2013
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Ed - here is a link to a thread on a similar problem with a Yanmar/Kohler
http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...ead.php?t=6822
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Richard Baker
Newberg, Oregon
1987 PT40 (SOLD)
F75399
8V92
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  #15  
Old 08-20-2013
ejallison1 ejallison1 is offline
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Default GOT GEN POWER! YOO HOO!

This post will be the short version as to why gen was shutting down shortly after starting the engine. (Yanmar-Kohler 12.5) Hopefully might be answer for someone else having same problem. I'll do a longer thread later with pics.

Symptoms: Engine would start but no AC and radiator fan was not turning nor was the light coming on the start switch.

I haven't run across any threads on this so here it goes. Initially when starting genny the fuel solenoid arm pushes in to allow fuel to enter the engine - but once the genny starts and is producing AC the fuel solenoid arm is kept in by AC power being produced by the genny. If there is no AC power being produced then the engine shuts down shortly thereafter. (5-15 seconds) However before it can produce AC power the genny has to have the rotor field flashed or excited. Problem with mine was the field was not flashing. This field flashing uses the genny battery (DC power) to do this.

Inside the control box there is a wire on the terminal strip in the # 20 spot that carries this DC power to the rotor to flash the field. This wire has a diode on it. A diode is a unidirectional valve for the flow of electricity-in this case flowing one way to the rotor to excite it. The diode on this wire was broken and would not allow the flow of electricity in either direction. Replaced the diode that I borrowed from a similar genny and she started right up.

Anybody know where to get a replacement?


After looking at this diode under a magnifying glass I could see a hairline fracture on the body of it.


All new terminology - substitute "rotor" for "stator"
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  #16  
Old 08-20-2013
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Bill Pape Bill Pape is offline
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Just a guess but I think a diode of about 10 or 12 amps & 300 volts would work, try RadioShack
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  #17  
Old 08-20-2013
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Wow, that was very edumacational! Thanks for taking the time to post and share with us, great explanation and pics! More spare parts to add to the parts bin... Diodes...
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2013
ejallison1 ejallison1 is offline
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As mentioned had a issue with the genny starting but stopping 5-15 seconds later-no AC being produced. Took some pics and wanted to go through some of the steps I took to find the problem. It is not all inclusive and a lot of you already know this stuff-more for those who are learning. I started with the least expensive potential fix and worked my way down the list. I bought all my replacement parts through Buckeye Power in Indpls. In.-speak with Josh and have your model number. In my case 12.5CCO. I believe most of this info would be pertinent to the the perkins.
and Make Sure The Bus Is Properly Supported Before Going Under The Bus!


Below are three links to some kohler manuals that I found helpful.

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...=kohler+manual (63 pg)
If you are having this problem I would read this one-especially helpfull is a section starting on pg 39 on how to test the stator and rotor

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...NMAR%20MANUAL/
The schematics for my 86 Yanmar-Kohler are on page 21 of the above link-other schematics are listed in the manual-find yours. You will need it!


http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...ng%20Guide.pdf
This last manual has instructions on how to test the voltage regulator. An expensive part!

List:
1. Make sure the breaker switch (typical household type double) on the wall in the genny compartment is in the on position and that all batteries are fully charged.

2. Oil level correct-

3. Coolant level correct-
*there is a High Water Temp(HWT) and Low Oil Pressure(LOP) sensor that will shut down the engine. To test simply disengage the wires to the sensors(don't let them touch any metal while testing)--if the engine then stays running one of those two sensors may be the problem. The gen will still produce AC when it is running but shut off shortly after starting.

4. There is a 10 amp slow burn glass fuse on the front of the control box-but according to one of the manuals if it is broken the gen will not start.


5. There is an 8 amp slow burn glass fuse on the back of the genny-if it is broken the genny will start but no AC will be produced.


6. Open up the control box. Mine is mounted on top and towards the
back of the genny. Check for any loose connections and/or obvious signs of arching or wires that have gotten too hot. It was easier for me to do this by taking the control box off the genny and I removed it from the back of the genny-not the front. (Properly Support The Bus) Mine has a six wire harness that comes through the back of the box but others have a cannon plug. If you have the wirig harness type then make sure you label the wires as to which position on the terminal strip they go to. Also check for any chaffed wires-esp where that 6 wire harness comes through the back of the control box. Make sure your ground wires terminals are clean and snug.


There are three small bosch relays ($5) and one larger 11 pin relay ($25). There are also some diodes ($5) I went ahead and replaced the 4 relays and then using the schematic I traced each line to make sure everything was right. I was already in there and they looked old. I did not check or change the diodes. Changing the relays did solve the problem of the fuel solenoid not pulling in when starting the engine. If you are having that problem as well do a search on forum on fuel solenoid and S and R .





7.Check the slip rings and brushes on the back end of the genny. The mid- 80's coaches seem to be prone to this. Here is good tutorial on what to look for and do: http://www.ryanwright.com/wanderlodge/sliprings/

8. I would check out the stator and rotor next. (See link at top of post) If the stator and/or rotor are bad it will fry a replacement voltage regulator so check them first. I am told that a new brushless generator head mated to your engine is as inexpensive as repairing a stator or rotor. Newage-Stamford and Marathon are the ones I have seen discussed on the forum. MAKE SURE YOU LABEL THE WIRES ON BACK OF GENNY








9.The voltage regulator on the back of the genny would be next on the elimination list but since it is an expensive item I would do the testing procedure as outlined in the link above before purchasing new. I picked up a used one on ebay for $50 but that wasn't the problem. If you are an electrical guru there is a universal voltage regulator at http://www.flightsystems.com/-that may work.


Hope this helps-way too long! but it is fixed!





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  #19  
Old 08-21-2013
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Bill Pape Bill Pape is offline
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Ed,
Thanks for the detailed write-up
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  #20  
Old 08-30-2013
Rick Davis Rick Davis is offline
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Thanks Ed.
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1986 PT36 6V92 "Golden Memories"-Sold
1993 WB40 "freeNeasy"-Sold
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