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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 12-24-2009
Mark Cowart Mark Cowart is offline
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Default adjusting front door

The front door on a new to me 1988 pt40 needs to be adjusted. the lower portion of the door dosn't close tight, there is about a 1/4" gap. if I'm on the outside I can push it in and lock with the deadbolt but if i'm inside of the coach I can not lock the lower deadbolt. hope someone can help with regards on what needs to be done to fix this problem? p.s. The door seams to be strait, not bent.
Thanks
Mark
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  #2  
Old 12-24-2009
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giderich giderich is offline
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Default Door Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Cowart View Post
The front door on a new to me 1988 pt40 needs to be adjusted. the lower portion of the door dosn't close tight, there is about a 1/4" gap. if I'm on the outside I can push it in and lock with the deadbolt but if i'm inside of the coach I can not lock the lower deadbolt. hope someone can help with regards on what needs to be done to fix this problem? p.s. The door seams to be strait, not bent.
Thanks
Mark
Best way to get the bottom tighter is to twist the door...do this with window down & prop door open with a block of wood and push the bottom in some; this will "warp" the door a little and make it close tighter.

Also check to insure the weather striping is intact. Do not apply excessive force...just the right amount.
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1999 43 LXI Single Slide Body # F124510
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  #3  
Old 12-24-2009
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is online now
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Default

I always remove the factory weatherstrip around the door,its too thick or too stiff or something,and you have to slam the door.
I hate slamming doors.
I think it also warps the door.
I use a thinner,softer weatherstrip that I buy at homey lowes,my doors always close easy.and they lock easy.

My 2001 LXI had a big ugly weld on the door flange,it was holding the door open down near the bottom,the weatherstrip was hiding most of that weld,when I changed the weatherstrip last week I found the weld and ground it off,its a different door now!
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  #4  
Old 12-24-2009
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Ernest Ekberg Ernest Ekberg is offline
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when BB in their infinite wisdom installed Corian on the lower step, they did not slope the corian,enough, to allow for a gap between the corian and the bottom part of the door. check out the alumimum marks on your corian. May attribute to a poor closing door.
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  #5  
Old 12-24-2009
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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Thought my door was warped, too. Looked like it. Ripped off the old weatherstripping and found the door is straight, and so is the frame in one direction but the frame is bowed in the other direction just clearing the door in the middle area, at the latch area. Not much can be done there. Hope it holds. Put new weatherstripping on it and solved most of the need to slam the door hard. That should be the first thing to look at. The PO had another layer of foam on the upper part of the door. That really made it work poorly.
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  #6  
Old 12-25-2009
fxdwg fxdwg is offline
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Ernie,

What's the best way to clearance the corian and the door?
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  #7  
Old 12-25-2009
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Ernest Ekberg Ernest Ekberg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxdwg View Post
Ernie,

What's the best way to clearance the corian and the door?
I believe I would take a grinder and shave off some of the aluminum on the bottom of the door. That would be easier then grinding and refinishing the whole bottom step.
Bring that baby down here and we'll grind away.
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  #8  
Old 12-28-2009
Mark Cowart Mark Cowart is offline
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Thank you for the advice, I will start with the weather stripping and go from there. I do not have corian any where near the door so that is not the issue.
Thanks the newbee
Mark
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  #9  
Old 12-28-2009
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Hi, I also had problems with my door, it was very wobbly and would not seal or close properly. Upon further review I found that the outer skin was no longer attached to the frame angle in the lower half of the door on both front and rear edges.
The P.O (Bless him) had tried to fix with sealer but really this had no chance of working. So, not wanting to screw up the paint rewelding I decided to rivet them together.
Haning built a plane in the past I had the rivets and bucking euipment on hand and decided to go with 1/8 dome head solid aluminium rivets which I feel fits the look of the rest of the bus. I used 1 1/4" spacing and I think it looks pretty good. I recon pop rivets would also do the trick at a pinch.
More importantly the door now works great and the wobble is history.

Just for info if anyone else is in the same boat!
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  #10  
Old 12-28-2009
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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I believe on of the things that "kills" these doors is having them caught in the wind and flung open hard against the hinge and mounting attachments. I don't know how many times I've ask the wifie to hang onto the door exiting the bus with little or no positive results. Never happens. I've taken to attaching extra protection to keep the door from swinging out of control. My door fits reasonably well but it's a wonder. Plus of course the doors get used about as much as any part on the bus.
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