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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
The Fuenti The Fuenti is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Grand Terrace
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Default Radiator Replacement: Once we're at it...

Good morning all,

I decided to create a new post to discuss alternatives and considerations when replacing a radiator. My thought process (knowing very little about mechanics) is that since the radiator will be pulled there should be a considerable amount of room that might make inspections, diagnostics, replacements, and the such more manageable. Here is what I'm considering, but would greatly appreciate feedback. I don't want to spend a lot of money, but I would hate to not take advantage of situation that can reasonably save me in labor costs down the road. I hope this makes sense.

What is established thus far...
1. Radiator will be sent to Phoenix for repair/reconstruction, etc.

2. Problems with Turbo Boost (i.e., not going past 7) diagnosed including:
a. CAC will be pressure tested and repaired/replaced if necessary.
b. Inspect both sides of the turbo.
c. Check intake gasket.
d. Inspect hose from intake to air compressor.

3. I'm having them inspect other hoses/fittings/etc., especially in the area surrounding the radiator.

Here are some of my questions:
1. Should I have the radiator fan serviced given that the radiator is off?
2. As mentioned in a previous post, the coach generally runs between 900-1,000F when climbing grades (with turbo boost not going past 7), and about 600-800 otherwise. Sometimes lower on long, extended flats, and less than 400 on extended descents. Would these temperatures affect the turbo (other components) that would make it advantageous to replace given that the radiator is out (i.e., assuming better access = less labor on replacement)?

Other thoughts/recommendations...

As always, I am grateful for any feedback and recommendations.
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1995 PT42 S60
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  #2  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Pressure check the CAC first thing.
If it leaks,send it to be recored asap.
I would replace the rad,not patch it.its 20 some years old.
I just replaced my rad and CAC,along with the fan motor and the fan blade,my fan blade had a crack in it,a close inspection after cleaning it.
My fan motor was leaking/weeping.
When i have the rad and cac out i replace every hose i can touch,theres no better time to do it,but your wallet needs to be your guide.
Your turbo needs to be inspected.
This is going to be expensive.
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  #3  
Old 1 Week Ago
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lucaswillemse lucaswillemse is offline
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Default Radiator replacement

Jose, on our coach the boost pressure gauge never went past 5 pounds. When I added a computer readout system on the engine computer it showed that the boost goes all the way close to 30. I have a bad gauge or bad physical connection, this is a mechanical gauge. I have not found where the tube for reading the boost pressure hooks into the manifold. Does anyone have a suggestion on where this gauge hooks into the manifold?
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Old 1 Week Ago
The Fuenti The Fuenti is offline
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Thank you Randy,

I'm certainly bracing myself for a hefty bill on this one. I'm just grateful that we broke down relatively close to home and near a reputable shop. It could have been worse. At least I'm not pressed for time so I don't need to make any rash decisions.

Good advice on the radiator. I will bite the bullet and get a new one installed rather than patching what is there. I figure if it's 25+ years old, it's done it's job and it's time to move on.

When I hear back from the shop with an estimate, I'll have a better idea as to how much I will be able to address. I just hate the idea of saving a few hundred bucks now, only to pay thousands down the road. But knowledge is the power, so I'll just wait patiently until I have more information.

On another note, the shop informed me that they sent the air to air along with the radiator to the commercial radiator place for an estimate. Is the air to air the same as the CAC?

I asked that they do a comprehensive inspection once they're at it, including the turbo. I'll check with them on the hoses when we re-connect later.
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  #5  
Old 1 Week Ago
The Fuenti The Fuenti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucaswillemse View Post
Jose, on our coach the boost pressure gauge never went past 5 pounds. When I added a computer readout system on the engine computer it showed that the boost goes all the way close to 30. I have a bad gauge or bad physical connection, this is a mechanical gauge. I have not found where the tube for reading the boost pressure hooks into the manifold. Does anyone have a suggestion on where this gauge hooks into the manifold?
That's interesting. I've been toying with the idea of getting the Silver Leaf installed. I'll have to budget for this before our trip through the Rockies later this year. I've also wondered about some of my other gauges. During a trip a few years back, I borrowed a friend's ScanGauge, which showed slightly different readings than the mechanical gauges on the dash. The digital readings were closer to normal than the mechanical; however, I don't recall seeing a reading for the turbo boost.

I'm really curious to check this out. It would be great to have a comparison. Thanks for the suggestion.
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  #6  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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even with good boost numbers you can have a leaky CAC,or air cooler,or air to air.
Mine would have 20 lbs of boost,but would not hold any pressure at all,and with soapy water it was all bubbles.
we test them here at home,so i did the test and the soap spray.
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  #7  
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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I paid 1700 for the cac and 1500 for the rad.
I took them out myself.
i shipped both items to the rad place and they shipped them back ready to go.
prices will be all over the map,wallet beware.
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  #8  
Old 1 Week Ago
The Fuenti The Fuenti is offline
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I would have never thought the CAC costs more than the radiator. Good to have those numbers as a reference point. I'm sure there is considerable variation, but at least it's a start.

Either way, looks like I may need to take on a few more cases to get this bill taken care of

Given the low power, black smoke with any load to the engine, and running a bit on the warm side (pyro, coolant, oil), I'm under the impression that this issue has been there a while.

I wish I had your skills and a bit more of your knowledge, Randy. I would actually enjoy endeavoring into the mechanical work if I knew what the heck I was doing.

Great to have the WOG on my corner!
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  #9  
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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You can get a cheaper CAC,the old type we have now is a folded tube design,they run a flat bar of alum through a machine that folds it into a tube,and its flash welded.
Now theres an extruded tube design,supposed to last longer,be stronger and more efficient.
Its supposed to flow better etc.
I went with that style,it was maybe $300 more for it.


Like a lot of guys here,i could not afford a bird if i had to pay to have it fixed.
Pete Haggins and i had his rad out of his 96 in a few hours,no big deal.
The 95-96 WB is easy to do.
The 97 is bad,and the LXI is not too bad if you have a forklift.
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  #10  
Old 1 Week Ago
GregOC GregOC is offline
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Stewarts in Riverside Ca is great for radiator rebuilds. .

I Just replace all the accessable or removed hoses.
While rad is out, refit anything that may some day need to be replaced.
If you replace a bolt nut clamp or band, spray the fastner with a rattle can to protect it from rust or petina.

Study the failure to learn the cause. Cracks are diff than rot. Pulling at hoses, misaligned braces or hangers, muffed motormounts, cause cracks. I also wonder if the bands being too tight cause cracks. My theory is the alumn tube expands but the stainless band does not ? I can not get a good or consistant answer on why band clamps have springs. Or how tight to make them. I usually fit them tight then back off one complete rotation and carry a wrench.
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