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LX and LXI (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your LX or LXI model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THOSE ISSUES INVOLVED WITH ANY LAWSUIT.....list your LX and LXI Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 09-11-2010
cmillsap
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Default Headlight Upgrade

Well, as everyone probably knows by now, us LXi owners (’99 TO ’03) aren’t exactly happy with the light output of our OEM headlights. Some owners have replaced their OEM’s with H.I.D.’s at a fairly significant cost. I have been tempted to do that also but the cost just kept me looking for an economical alternative.

This model BB came factory equipped with 120mm Hella Projectors # HL68131 (High Beam) & HL 68132 (Low Beam). Both use a Halogen H1 12V 55A bulb. I have looked extensively for a replacement bulb at a reasonable cost that will improve their performance. Silverstar bulbs @$12.00 only improve the brightness by approximately 20% and Silverstar Ultra bulbs @ $20.00 in an H1 style are hard to find but are a bit better than the straight Silverstar bulbs. Hella makes a Halogen + 50% Xenon bulb @$12.50 that is similar in performance to the Sylvania Silverstars.

PIAA is another manufacturer of Halogen Bulbs and makes a H1 X-treme White Plus bulb. This bulb is supposed to provide 110 Watts of light using only 55 watts of power.
I have ordered 4 of these at cost of $101.00. They are to be delivered on Tuesday and I am anxious to see how well they perform and will report back to the forum.

In the meantime, I wanted to remove the black Lexan covers to clean the back side of the clear cover over the headlight projectors. After removing the nylon nuts from behind I am finding it very difficult to remove the covers. It appears that they are not only glued to the inner cover but also glued around their perimeter and there is no way to get a putty knife underneath to pry the glue loose. So I guess I’m just going to have to leave then alone unless someone knows a better way to remove them. If anyone knows how to solve this problem I would appreciate the benefit of their knowledge. I suspect the PO had both glued tightly around their perimeter to make sure they didn’t blow off as some members have experienced.

I have provided the info above and a link to the PIAA bulbs in case anyone is interested in changing theirs and a photo that will show you how easy it is to change the bulb.


Chuck



http://www.amazon.com/PIAA-11655-Xtr...4174848&sr=1-1

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=3960
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Old 09-11-2010
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Chuck I'm in the same boat. Thanks for posting this info. I await your final opinion on these new bulbs and will order a set myself if you endorse the product. Can you just remove the bulb inner housing and clean the lens housing while it is still in place. My black plastic outer covers are velcro'd on. Could yours be also. Are you sure they're glued on? One other thing Chuck. Is there any heat issue with these new bulbs. In other words, is there a possibility that these new bulbs could melt the plastic lenses?
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Old 09-11-2010
cmillsap
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Originally Posted by Rob Robinson View Post
Chuck I'm in the same boat. Thanks for posting this info. I await your final opinion on these new bulbs and will order a set myself if you endorse the product. Can you just remove the bulb inner housing and clean the lens housing while it is still in place. My black plastic outer covers are velcro'd on. Could yours be also. Are you sure they're glued on? One other thing Chuck. Is there any heat issue with these new bulbs. In other words, is there a possibility that these new bulbs could melt the plastic lenses?
Rob,

I can only see (looks Like) 3M double sided tape between the cover and the body panel on the vertical outsides of the covers. The top is glued tightly and there's no way to see what's securing the Lexan covers there as the edges are horizonal at the top. I did think about removing the whole projector body to use the hole to clean the back side of the clear covers but the projectors are bolted through from the front side with no way to hold the bolts after removing the nuts when you start to replace the projector body. Also, two of the adjuster screws are adjusted from the front side and I'm afraid if I remove the projector I will need to re adjust the beam direction when I replace it but then cannot get to the two adjuster screws and the lights may not be directed properly.

Good question about the heat issue, but in reading the reviews, one person said there was no problem with overheating. BTW, Are the projector lenses plastic or glass. I can't get to mine to determine?????

Chuck

Last edited by cmillsap; 09-11-2010 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 09-11-2010
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I'm sure you're correct on that 3M stuff Chuck. I've seen it all over this rig. Wherever it is failing I'm replacing it with good goopucky glues.
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Old 09-11-2010
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Chuck,

Your going to have to heat them up with a heat gun.
Just start at a good distance from the plastic and never stop moving, if you do they will melt/burn in that spot. This is how you separate the lens on the Square style lenses and most any other headlight OEM assembly's. Once they are hot, to the point it's very uncomfortable to touch. Get your prying device worked into the joint and start wiggling until it separates then work your way around the lens. Of course if PO used super glue or something similar this may not work, but it's worth a try.
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Old 09-11-2010
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Originally Posted by Bumpersbird View Post
Chuck,

Your going to have to heat them up with a heat gun.
Just start at a good distance from the plastic and never stop moving, if you do they will melt/burn in that spot. This is how you separate the lens on the Square style lenses and most any other headlight OEM assembly's. Once they are hot, to the point it's very uncomfortable to touch. Get your prying device worked into the joint and start wiggling until it separates then work your way around the lens. Of course if PO used super glue or something similar this may not work, but it's worth a try.
Kurt I'm lost now. I thought Chuck was trying to remove the outer black shroud that surrounds the light assembly. You know the plastic bumper looking thing
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Old 09-11-2010
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Sorry,

Re-read the post,

I thought he had an assembly in hand and was trying to take the lens off the housing that holds the bulbs.

It seems as though you guys have trouble just getting this setup out of the front of the coach and keeping them on for that matter,

Velcro ? If it works run with it, I would
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Old 09-11-2010
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Originally Posted by Bumpersbird View Post
Sorry,

Re-read the post,

I thought he had an assembly in hand and was trying to take the lens off the housing that holds the bulbs.

It seems as though you guys have trouble just getting this setup out of the front of the coach and keeping them on for that matter,

Velcro ? If it works run with it, I would

Ya mine is velcro'd but it seems to be that stuff that some call industrial. In other words it doesn't have sheep wool on one side. The hooks and ladders are all a synthetic plastic material
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Old 09-11-2010
cmillsap
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Kurt I'm lost now. I thought Chuck was trying to remove the outer black shroud that surrounds the light assembly. You know the plastic bumper looking thing
No, you're correct Rob, but Kurt's idea of using a heat gun to loosen the glue might work. As you can see, it's impossible to get any kind of a tool between the Lexan cover and the body panel, especilaay on the top to help pry it loose. The only way I know is as Kurt says is to heat the Lexan cover around it's edge to melt the glue. I'm a little afraid to use a heat gun as I may mess up the Lexan cover. I cannot see what is used to hold it in place, maybe Velcroo, maybe glue, maybe double sided tape, appears to be double sided tape on the sides, in any event there's no way to pry it loose and I'm afraid to pull on it for fear of breaking it. These Lexan covers are scarce as hen's teeth. So, I guess I should just leave it alone and just replace the bulbs.

Chuck
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Old 09-11-2010
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Chuck the way I would attack it is to use the heat to soften and first work on the areas that have easier access for pry bar utensiles and wood shims. Start with the easy, heat, pry, put shims in, heat, pry, move along, shim again. It has been my experience that sometimes working one area will provide access to another and when lifting may even apply a force to help with the difficult area.
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