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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #21  
Old 04-05-2010
mynavion mynavion is offline
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Great looking engine compartment Ron!


Quote:
Originally Posted by rrueckwald View Post
Here's two pictures of the two battery switches I just finished installing.

The brackets I made out of 11 gauge steel scraps I obtained from Alro Steel for 10 bucks.

The house (coach) switch is a Cole Hersee SPST switch, p/n 75908. The three holes you see along the top edge are for attaching a wood cover to keep someone from dropping a wrench down inside that hot spot.

The chassis (engine) switch is a Cole Hersee DPST p/n 75907. The reason for the double pole switch is as follows. There is a main chassis battery heavy wire to a post, but also a smaller 6 gauge wire from the battery to another post. Johnney Anderson believed this was done by BB to give cleaner power to the ECM. Therefore this wire was connected through the second smaller set of posts on the battery switch for a completely separate circuit. Good for continuous 300 amps, 2000 amps for 30 seconds. The smaller pole is good for 20 amps continuous.

Maybe overkill, but it feels GOOD! It also felt good to cover some of those bare 12vdc studs as best I could, especially the one behind the jumper stud near the bulk oil fill equipment. Take a look at THAT one on your coach.
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  #22  
Old 04-05-2010
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rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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Thanks, John.

Obsessive compulsive, you know....
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  #23  
Old 04-05-2010
Movin' On Movin' On is offline
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Raleigh,
My coach has the same two boxes. The left one on my coach has a small wire coming out the bottom that goes to the engine block. I think it is the 115VAC engine heater element. The one on the right does not have any wires coming out the bottom and I do not have any battery heater pad that I know of. Maybe someone who has the battery heater setup has a picture of the battery heater pad and how it is wired. I am considering adding the battery heater capability back.

I have six 6-volt deep-cycle batteries and I had the starting current checked. They put out around 350 amps while remaining in the green zone of the battery tester meter. This gives around 1050 starting amps, which may be marginal. The fourth pair of batteries would be helpful for me. This ignores the fact that I am using the deep-cycle batteries as starting batteries.
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  #24  
Old 04-07-2010
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rtpn60 rtpn60 is offline
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I've never cared for using deep cycle batteries for starting. Not only do they provide less initial current than starting batteries, they are doing it at a reduced charge (while booney docking) and common sense tells me that just can't be good.

However, when I search for supporting articles I find this;

Using a deep cycle battery as a starting battery

There is generally no problem with this, providing that allowance is made for the lower cranking amps compared to a similar size starting battery. As a general rule, if you are going to use a true deep cycle battery (such as the Concorde SunXtender) also as a starting battery, it should be oversized about 20% compared to the existing or recommended starting battery group size to get the same cranking amps. That is about the same as replacing a group 24 with a group 31. With modern engines with fuel injection and electronic ignition, it generally takes much less battery power to crank and start them, so raw cranking amps is less important than it used to be. On the other hand, many cars, boats, and RV's are more heavily loaded with power sucking "appliances", such as megawatt stereo systems etc. that are more suited for deep cycle batteries. We have used the Concorde SunXtender AGM batteries in some of our vehicles with no problems.
It will not hurt a deep cycle battery to be used as a starting battery, but for the same size battery they cannot supply as much cranking amps as a regular starting battery.

And this one;

A deep-cycle lead-acid battery is designed to be regularly discharged to most of its capacity. In contrast, starter batteries (e.g. most automotive batteries) are designed to deliver sporadic high current for cranking the engine, and to be frequently discharged of only a part of their capacity. While a deep-cycle battery can be used as a starting battery, the lower "cranking amps" imply that an over-sized battery may need to be used.
Structural differences between deep cycle batteries and cranking batteries are thicker active plates, with higher-density active paste material, and better separators. Capacity of a new deep-cycle battery is designed to be limited by the amount of electrolyte in the battery, which protects the plates. Alloys used for the plates may contain more antimony than for starting batteries. [1] Some batteries that are labelled "deep-cycle" do not possess these thick plates, however, and are actually "hybrid" batteries. While a deep-cycle battery is designed to discharge as much as 80% of its charge capacity over many cycles, companies recommend that a hybrid battery not be discharged beyond 50% of its capacity.

So it would appear my fears are unwarrented, now if only I can convince myself that I just could be wrong?

Naw.. I still prefer the seperate starting/deep cycle battery configuration.
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  #25  
Old 08-07-2018
Alan Richie Alan Richie is offline
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I have question that maybe you guys can help me with. I recently bought a 1980 Wanderlodge. I’ve read that even with the battery disconnect off they can run down over a couple of weeks if not hooked to electricity. I don’t have a service where it’s parked and wondered if a solar charger would work?
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  #26  
Old 08-07-2018
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rtpn60 rtpn60 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Richie View Post
I have question that maybe you guys can help me with. I recently bought a 1980 Wanderlodge. I’ve read that even with the battery disconnect off they can run down over a couple of weeks if not hooked to electricity. I don’t have a service where it’s parked and wondered if a solar charger would work?
Looks like you blew the dust off this thread.

The answer to your question is yes. Although in theory the batteries should be fully disconnected, they aren't. If you add a real disconnect on the batteries negative side to ground they'd last a few months without issue. If you add some solar that could also solve your problem. I wouldn't waste my time on any system less than 300 watts. And you should find out how many amps there are in your parasitic loads to make sure 300 watts is enough. More than likely on an 80, it's fine.
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78FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
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  #27  
Old 08-07-2018
Alan Richie Alan Richie is offline
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Thanks so much
for the quick reply. I’ll start looking for both online right now.
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  #28  
Old 08-07-2018
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rtpn60 rtpn60 is offline
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No Problem
I see you're back East so use this link to model yours after;
https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

These are kits Solar Penny and I made up for WOG.
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Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

FMCA #236459, Good Sam #17270530, Vintage Birds #1509
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  #29  
Old 08-07-2018
mpierce mpierce is offline
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I have 6 6 volt golf cart batteries. I made new cables, 2/0, when I switched over from 6. 12 volt.
So much better. I only have the sux. Starting and house the same. ALL my negative go thru one cable. I have a manual disconnect in that line. I go four months in the winter in ND with it off, and it starts right off.
I also put a meter on that line, so I know what is going in or out, and battery charge.
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  #30  
Old 08-07-2018
Alan Richie Alan Richie is offline
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Thanks again! I think I’m going to like it here!
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