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SP (Single Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your SP model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....List your SP parts here too.

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  #11  
Old 07-18-2018
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Thanks for the responses. Here's what I think I understand from the conversation I had with Eric (the mechanic here in Maine) today.
Circuit breaker #1 is faulty. It is getting an overload when the low beams (but not high beams) are on. All four of the house batteries (12volt) were not holding a charge (more than 5 years old) and have been replaced by 6 volt batteries.
The two questions he asked that I forward are:
1. Is there someplace on site (or elsewhere) that I can get a wiring diagram for this coach? I have the schematic that shows the B panel but it goes off the side with numbers like P11-06 and P20-04. We don't know what these lines lead to and he's trying to cut some hours down in researching.
2. Does anyone know a part number and/or source for a replacement headlight switch. It is a seven pin switch with only four wires connected to the pins. Any idea where each of these goes?

Jerry,
I may take you up on the phone call but I'd like to talk with Eric again first so I know just what he needs. This guy seems to know his stuff but, as you know, I couldn't find my way out of a barn.
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  #12  
Old 07-19-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finally Free View Post
Thanks for the responses. Here's what I think I understand from the conversation I had with Eric (the mechanic here in Maine) today.
Circuit breaker #1 is faulty. It is getting an overload when the low beams (but not high beams) are on. All four of the house batteries (12volt) were not holding a charge (more than 5 years old) and have been replaced by 6 volt batteries.
The two questions he asked that I forward are:
1. Is there someplace on site (or elsewhere) that I can get a wiring diagram for this coach? I have the schematic that shows the B panel but it goes off the side with numbers like P11-06 and P20-04. We don't know what these lines lead to and he's trying to cut some hours down in researching.
2. Does anyone know a part number and/or source for a replacement headlight switch. It is a seven pin switch with only four wires connected to the pins. Any idea where each of these goes?

Jerry,
I may take you up on the phone call but I'd like to talk with Eric again first so I know just what he needs. This guy seems to know his stuff but, as you know, I couldn't find my way out of a barn.
You may already know this but those numbers refer to the connector and pin number that those wires go to.

For example:

P11-06 should go to pin 6 of a plug or connector marked #P11 (most likely a black plastic circular Amp connector).

P20-04 should go to pin 4 of a plug or connector marked #P20 (most likely a black plastic circular Amp connector).

Connectors are sometimes easy to find but more often, they’re hidden behind a panel or behind the dash, etc. (You probably have more than 20 of them scattered throughout the coach).

Those two connectors may be associated with dash panels, switches, etc. but unfortunately I don’t have an SP drawing that shows the destination of those two connectors so I can’t guide you to P11 or P20 on your coach.

Not sure what an SP has for a headlight switch but if it's like mine, this post by Brad Winter should help with a part number:

https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...19&postcount=5
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2018
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Eric (the mechanic here) is monitoring this thread to get some further information.

Here are the two responses that I've gotten from him since my last post. Hopefully this will better explain just what he is looking for.

1.
just read all of your posts on the W.O.G. Not much there to help me out. I have been back in to the dash since last talking with you and now I believe the switch is alright. There are 4 wires going to that switch and 3 of them I’ve identified and they are good. The fourth one is the problem. It connects to the parking light load wire when the switch is in the “parking” light position. If I manually give this wire 12v the headlight switch does it’s job in it’s two positions. So, this is the wire that is missing the “factory” 12 volts supply. I really would love to have the electrical diagram that continues from the ones you have.

I’ve been looking around the internet and I believe your headlight switch is out of a Jeep Wrangler. Here is a link to a site that sells them.
http://<i><i>https://www.extremeterr...-8795-</i></i>yj.html?utm_content=XT%20Restoration%20-%20Interior%7cOmix-ADA&T5_Var4=J113492&intl=0&utm_campaign=XTW+Wrangl er+Vehicle+Medium&dialogtech=ppc&utm_source=bing-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&T5_Var3=o range&msclkid=36ac47cdbfdf1660a10f1c8256497db8&gcl id=CMGJu_CBqtwCFdLAswod5v8FmA&gclsrc=ds
Like I said earlier in this post I don’t thin
k we need one but I wanted to identify it none the less.

Eric

2.
I think if the other people that posted was explained to, that someone put a jumper wire to run the parking lights from the headlight breaker, they’d understand that the circuit was way overloaded and burnt the BRK1 breaker out.

I would like to fix this the correct way and find out why that 4th wire on the headlight switch doesn’t have 12 volts, not just to run another wire or source of 12 volts to remedy the problem.

Eric
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  #14  
Old 07-19-2018
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pretty sure the headlight switch is the same as an 88 chevy pickup.
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  #15  
Old 07-19-2018
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Could that mystery wire go to the "healight on" warning buzzer???
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  #16  
Old 07-20-2018
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i will just throw this out there. I had plenty of porblems with unknown, intermiten things happening, for years. one was head lights going off/ breaker over loaded. and other weird electircal problems. Anyway, it started getting worse. Turns out there is one ground in the front panel that handle every relay up there, and the ground was loose. If yours has this ground, check it.
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  #17  
Old 07-21-2018
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First "thank you" for the responses. John, especially your explanation of the P20 (PLUG - I had thought Page) was very helpful).
Things are progressing. Circuit Breaker #1 has been replaced (it was burned out) and four new 6 volt batteries have replaced my 5-6 year old house batteries.

The current problem is that there is a constant 4 amp draw on the new house batteries. When the wires are connected you can hear the solenoid (mounted above on the left side of the battery compartment) close. Disconnect the wires and, after a couple of seconds delay, you can hear and feel it click open. Connect them again and it will arc (Eric tells me from his experience that this generally indicates a 20 amp draw) and then maintain the 4 amp draw.

We've checked inside the bus and everything seems to be off.
Sorry, I've taken some pictures of this but can't for the life of me figure out how to post them. If anyone is interested I could email them to you.
Any ideas on what this 4 amp draw might be coming from?
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  #18  
Old 07-21-2018
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Heck a 4 amp draw is light. The solenoid may pull that much. Then you have many phantom draws. Each 12 volt item with a memory pulls a little. The Refrigerator even if on propane uses 12 volt.

The best way to minimize the draw is disconnect the battery banks.
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  #19  
Old 07-21-2018
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Give me a call Phill. 870 715 nine six 39
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  #20  
Old 07-21-2018
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Two ways to cut down draw is turn on the AT switch and turn off the master electronic solenoid.
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