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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 06-27-2008
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Default How to open upper dash

I need to get behind the upper section of the dash on my '83 FC. The lower section lifts up fine after removing the steering wheel, but there seems to be a hidden fastening on the sides of the upper face.

Does anyone know the secret?
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
I need to get behind the upper section of the dash on my '83 FC. The lower section lifts up fine after removing the steering wheel, but there seems to be a hidden fastening on the sides of the upper face.

Does anyone know the secret?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
I need to get behind the upper section of the dash on my '83 FC. The lower section lifts up fine after removing the steering wheel, but there seems to be a hidden fastening on the sides of the upper face.

Does anyone know the secret?
This was covered on a post on the old forum, but I can't remember who it was posted by.

The right side of the upper dash on mine is held in place by the CB Microphone clip screws and the left side is held in by a screw located behind the Accessory switch at the far upper left, I had to first get the switch removed, not an easy job and then with a flashlight aimed into the now vacant switch hole, I could see the screw inside the dash, that takes a long shanked screwdriver to remove. I believe that the Bluebird engineers sat up all night long getting drunk in order to figure that one out
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2008
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John,
Thanks. I have a camera on a stalk (see snake) and I did get a glimps of tha screw, but I couldn't believe anyone would put it there, so I wasn't sure if that was it. Now I know the secret I won't need to break anything getting it open.
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  #4  
Old 06-28-2008
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Well I got the upper dash off today and was able to solder a new bulb into the LOW AIR light fixture. I didn't need to remove the secret screw as there was enough flex in the dash to work. I didn't put a lot of stress on it, it was pretty loose.

The low air switch was also not working, so I replaced that as well. It is amazing how something can be so easy to see and so tough to reach.

With a little work on the light switch I was able to get the dash lights to turn on in the full on position. Now to find a new light switch with the appropriate rheostat.

Speaking of lights, my new LED clearence lights arrived from Stephen Birtles yesterday. They are a perfect match for the original ones. What would be the appropriate sealer to use when installing them? The old ones are smeared with silicon sealer on the outside around the perimeter. Looks like **** and probably doesn't do much good either.
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
Well I got the upper dash off today and was able to solder a new bulb into the LOW AIR light fixture. I didn't need to remove the secret screw as there was enough flex in the dash to work. I didn't put a lot of stress on it, it was pretty loose.

The low air switch was also not working, so I replaced that as well. It is amazing how something can be so easy to see and so tough to reach.

With a little work on the light switch I was able to get the dash lights to turn on in the full on position. Now to find a new light switch with the appropriate rheostat.

Speaking of lights, my new LED clearence lights arrived from Stephen Birtles yesterday. They are a perfect match for the original ones. What would be the appropriate sealer to use when installing them? The old ones are smeared with silicon sealer on the outside around the perimeter. Looks like **** and probably doesn't do much good either.

Gardner,

I am going to have to do the same project on my 'Bird, could you tell us the Bulb and Low Air switch part numbers and where the switch was located, if you could include a photo that would be great too. I also need to know where to find the Low Air Buzzer and hopefully I won't find that one of the previous owners has FIXED the problem with these items, like they have some others, with a pair of wire cutters

Thanks for any help.
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1982 FC35RB
I'm NO EXPERT, but I did stay in the FINN'S INN EXPRESS last night
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA
VISIT THE FINN'S INN EXPRESS REMODELING ADVENTURE AND TECH. TIPS
I'M SO SLOW ON THE HILLS,THAT I GET TO SMELL THE FLOWERS AS I GO BY.....AND WATCH THEM GROW TOO!! NOT SO MUCH ANYMORE
Visit the WILD HARE RACING website
REMEMBER 9/11
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  #6  
Old 06-28-2008
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Gardner,

I like to use 3m 4200 for semi permanent sealing and 3m 5200 for permanent sealing. The 4200 should work great with a little patience for the marker lights. Some building supply stores will carry it, but you can find it at most marine stores.

Glenn
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  #7  
Old 06-28-2008
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I discovered a catalog of Blue Bird parts that those looking for switches, etc. might find helpful. A-Z Bus is a Blue Bird School Bus distributor in CA -- and their catalog has many switches, lights, and other gizmos used in a wide variety of Wanderlodges. (I found the headlight switch that I've had trouble with). You can download a PDF of the catalog at
http://www.a-zbus.com/publish/Quick_...Catalog_.shtml
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  #8  
Old 06-28-2008
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John,
The Napa store cross-referenced the Bendix part number I gave them to an 'MBI BE13241' switch. The original switch had one terminal and the ground was via the case. The new one has two terminals and I needed to add a ground wire to a nearby screw. I will take a couple of pictures tomorrow. Also, the new switch seems to open at 75+ rather than the 60# in the Bendix spec. It's not a real problem, but more of an early warning.

The switch is located on the right side of the coach at the rear of the wet tank just behind the front of the propane tank. It has a tan colored wire connected to it.

Mine is different in that when the PO took it to a truck service place they replaced the fan with an air controlled unit and tapped the air from the 4-way coupling where the pressure switch is. The original switch was on the top and I couldn loosen it up. I added a tee and located the new switch on the bottom.

The bulb I got from RadioShack. It is a 12 volt incandescant bulb with two leads. I will see if I can locate the P/N. I originaly got them for the HWH indicators in my '78.

I should have kept a photographic log of the work, but it was 95 degrees and very humid today. I just wanted to get it done.
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Last edited by gcyeaw; 06-28-2008 at 09:37 PM.
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  #9  
Old 06-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteaeonix View Post
I discovered a catalog of Blue Bird parts that those looking for switches, etc. might find helpful. A-Z Bus is a Blue Bird School Bus distributor in CA -- and their catalog has many switches, lights, and other gizmos used in a wide variety of Wanderlodges. (I found the headlight switch that I've had trouble with). You can download a PDF of the catalog at
http://www.a-zbus.com/publish/Quick_...Catalog_.shtml
Thanks Pete,

After reading your post I went to the site you mentioned and downloaded the catalog. I've been to blue-bird.com time after time hoping they had finally put that catalog on line but they still haven't made it available on their web site.
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  #10  
Old 06-29-2008
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Gardner,its been fun watching you for the last couple of years.
from A wannabee,to a two bird owner to a guy thats under the coach,taking the dash out etc!
Randy
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