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Caterpillar 3208 Solutions This sub-forum is hosted by Mike Hohnstein who has been at this kind of thing for 50+ years now, guess I'm addicted. The saga has been all about progressively larger shop space since then. Honestly, never wanted to get into the CAT 3208's that were originally considered to be a throwaway engine but that's all that works in a FC in my world. Same thing with my Ford toter, that came with a NA, too much effort to hang in a 6, so been at it with the CAT V-8 for 20 years now. In reality you can get excellent life out of a CAT 3208 if it's built correctly. Post your questions about the CAT 3208 engines here and Mike will try to help you out.

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  #11  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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1984Lodge 1984Lodge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrold View Post
Well, we made it to AR, but I think our rad is giving us some issues again.
We have to do some work on it to go further... but at least we are close to where we wanted to go this week.
We were able to drive from Asheville to Little Rock in normal conditions until this rad issue...
What is the issue? If you have a head gasket going, it could be forcing combustion gases into the cooling system over pressurizing it. Especially if you say you have bubbles in the system, this is going to affect the cooling system and you could blow out something from the combustion pressure entering the cooling system. This may just be a symptom of the bigger problem.
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Jeff LoGiudice
1984LodgeJeff@gmail.com
Temple Terrace, Florida
1984 Bluebird PT40
#F063411 6V92TA & MT654CR
& 1986 MCI 102A3
6V92TA & HT740
YouTube-Gino's Garage https://www.youtube.com/user/xjrjeff
http://www.bbirdmaps.com/index.cfm #460
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  #12  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Frank W. Frank W. is offline
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Located in Benton, AR. is a diesel shop that can/will work on a 3208 Wanderlodge that I've used and can recommend:

https://www.ducksgarage.net/

Good luck.
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Frank W.
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Woodbridge, VA.

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  #13  
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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yeah, they're looking for an experienced diesel mechanic.
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Mike Hohnstein
FMCA 97824
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  #14  
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JF sorry to hear about your luck. We started full timing it about 5 months now. The worry of having something major happening is always in the back of my mind. best of luck to you.
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Benny Hill our Shih Tzu
Branson, Mo
1999 Blue Bird 43LXi
Body # F123448
Chassis # 84788
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  #15  
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jfrold jfrold is offline
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In Asheville we tried 2 big bottles of bar's leak sealant because we had nothing to lose really at that point.
It worked beautifully to seal the leak and we had no more bubbles in the rad and no more white smoke out the exhaust.
We then managed to drive off but our oil pressure was low, as the oil was contaminated with water.
We found a shop that flushed it with one gallon of sea foam and fresh oil, let it run 15 min and drain. Add new filters again and new oil and oil pressure was back to normal. Running temp was normal and engine ran good.
So we drove it a little, and a little more.
Knowing well that all of this was temporary.
Anyways, fast forward to last night, running good, got stucked in traffic rad starting to act up, it over heated a bit before I could pull over out of a ramp in bumper to bumper traffic.
This likely killed the seal the product had created or made it worse.
So now we have to fix that filler cap leak that was repaired in April and go from there...
That product and an oil change still got us back in the road for 600 miles. Cheaper than getting it towed that far for sure.
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Yukon, Can
1984 FC35 SB
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  #16  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
jfrold jfrold is offline
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Thanks Frank for the shop info, very close to where we are now.
John, don't let something like this prevent you from using your bird to it's full potential. Full timing for 5.5 years now with ours and this is the second time we face something this serious. Last time was the tranny in 2015.
We have done a lot of miles, went across Canada and the US and up to Yukon 5 times. These birds are solid.
Our engine hours are at 4420 on the Cat, seems like it is about normal for some issues to pop up...
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  #17  
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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bar's leak, always sealed up the leaky aluminum heads on the race car back in the day, good product.
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  #18  
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Frank W. Frank W. is offline
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If you have a head gasket leak...suggest running with no rad cap. Let’s pressure escape and since your in moderate temps should be good.
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Frank W.
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  #19  
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bimmerman46 bimmerman46 is offline
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Irontight block and rad sealer is by far the best product on the market. If it dosent work there are no products that will. Its commonly used for heavy industrial commercial equipment.
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George Dillon
Tecumseh, Ontario Canada
1999 LXI 43
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  #20  
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mpierce mpierce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank W. View Post
If you have a head gasket leak...suggest running with no rad cap. Let’s pressure escape and since your in moderate temps should be good.
I agree. Also if have small radiator leak or seep. Don't need to remove it. Just loosen to the safety notch. That loosens it enough no pressure builds, yet the cap is in place, and won't fall off.
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"Smoke N Mirrors" Royale Conversion
1990 PT40WB
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