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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #41  
Old 06-21-2018
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Suggest taking it to a rad shop and be prepared for core replacement
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  #42  
Old 06-21-2018
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Looks dirty. I'd try a garden hose and simple green.
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  #43  
Old 06-21-2018
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Thanks Bill & Rick. I just tried gentle horizontal strokes with a wire brush, whatever's in there seems to come out using this method, but is exposing bare copper in places on the fins. Should I leave it bare? Rick, the stuff is pretty hard, garden hose didn't touch it. Would pressure washing or 75psi air damage the horizontal fins?
Also, Bill, any idea what the price of a re-core would be?
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  #44  
Old 06-21-2018
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Mike,
DO NOT use a pressure washer as you will destroy the fins. Take a garden hose and carefully spray from the engine side out to loosen the dirt and trash to remove it.
Run your finger over the fins to see if they flake apart and if they do, the radiator will more than likely need to be recored.


To ROD it out the radiator will need to be removed as they will need to take the top off anyway.


Good luck
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  #45  
Old 06-21-2018
badandy badandy is offline
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Get it wet with the hose on low pressure and let it soak, then gently run unpressurized water from the hose through it. Stop using a wire brush on it!
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  #46  
Old 06-21-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenjackie View Post
Thanks Bill & Rick. I just tried gentle horizontal strokes with a wire brush, whatever's in there seems to come out using this method, but is exposing bare copper in places on the fins. Should I leave it bare? Rick, the stuff is pretty hard, garden hose didn't touch it. Would pressure washing or 75psi air damage the horizontal fins?
Also, Bill, any idea what the price of a re-core would be?
sorry to be the pessimist, but if original or if the fins are flaking off and appear corroded,
remove it take it to a shop, they will determine roding or replacement,
re-core could be 2,000 so shop around, but cheaper than an 8V rebuild.
There are several threads on this rad repair, one is below.
https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...ad.php?t=13700
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  #47  
Old 06-21-2018
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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I had to put a radiator in my PD4106 GM bus. It was in bad shape with lots of damage to the fins. The PO told me up front it would need a radiator. I have some good local contacts in the radiator business. A recore cost me $2900. The size of my radiator may be bigger than yours. Most useful info I took away from the task was that there is a measurement called "Standing Water" and that is the amount of water in the core. Scam artists tell you "I have a 5 core or a 5 pass radiator and it's better than your old radiator." The thing that determines how well a radiator will cool is how much water is traveling from the tank to tank as that is what is being cooled. Yes a radiator may have 50% more tubes but if they are smaller inside diameter, you have less liquid being cooled. Something to think about.



Rick in Ohio
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  #48  
Old 06-21-2018
CaptPegLeg CaptPegLeg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
The engine RPM also controls fan speed (i think).
Not the same thing,but its someting to ponder.
Recently a guy called me and had an FC,they rebuilt the steering box because it was hard to steer,after the rebuild it was worse.
They installed a pressure gauge and thay have 1800psi,which is spec (according to them).
So,pressure to spec,but still no power steering.
I'm not saying a gauge is not good,i just don't know how to read what its telling me.
From what I took away from my hydraulic education, flow is the important thing. You get pressure when you have resistance. For example if you’re cruising down the road your power steering would have little pressure. But if you’re parked tight against the curb and tried to turn the wheel against the curb you would create pressure. In using the cooling fan as an example, the larger the diameter or the greater the pitch the more resistance you would have and thereby create more pressure. The more work that is being done the more pressure you have but you have to have flow for the system to work.
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  #49  
Old 06-21-2018
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I just took my radiator out about 3 weeks ago. The outside looked almost pristine. I had washed it with a hose a couple of times during the 10+ yrs. of ownership. Anyway, the inside of the radiator was toast! You could take your fingers and gently rub down the radiator and it just crumbled. It didn't look bad at all from the engine side and through the shroud and fan blades. It was when removed it told the tale. I would suggest you remove it and check it thoroughly. It cost me $2K to re-core the radiator. Then of course add any other incidentals, such as a total flush and new coolant and you easily have another $500, but I bet the fan won't be on high all the time. Oh, I put in new t-stats too.
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