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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 05-04-2018
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Kiwi3 Kiwi3 is offline
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Question 8V92 Coolant Flush

I'm going to flush and change the coolant on my 8V92 since I need to drain it anyway to change the lower air compressor coolant line. Works out that my driveway even slopes perfectly to get the coolant out of the heater core (I think). My engine temp is good, so I'm thinking that I'm not going to mess with the water pump or thermostat since both appear to be working well.


I'm wondering are there any mechanic tips or tricks that I should know about before I head out with my stack of 5 gallon buckets? Like are there any other hoses that I should be replacing at the same time?

Should I run a coolant flush through the system prior to draining, or is that only a car thing? If so is there a different kind of flush?
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Old 05-04-2018
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There are others with more experience that can be of more helpful to you, but make sure the gate valves that route coolant forward are open
We figured it out after the system took several gallons less to refill and hard to drain, reflush, and refill
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Old 05-04-2018
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I replaced all soft radiator line's around engine,,, also a good time to add coolant filter,,,also back flushed the transmission tube in tube heat exchanger and look into the opening and make sure that its clean,,, I removed the cac and cleaned rad while I was at it - my 94 had no fins rotting but my 97's rad was junk when I inspected it so I ordered a coil for the rad and rebuilt it too!! good luck
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Old 05-04-2018
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I wouldn't run a flush through it, especially acidic ones.
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Old 05-07-2018
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If you have the ****** gate/boiler valves on the chassis heater loop, might want to replace those with ball valves. Not too hard to do. And by taking those hoses off, it's really easy to flush that loop with a garden hose. And the water can be easily purged out with a shop-vac run on reverse for a good source of low pressure and high volume air.

There's also a drain valve on the bottom of the oil cooler that will hold a couple gallons.

And then there's the loop that goes to the Primus heat exchangers, which has a small pump on a separate dash switch. Can flush that as well.

I didn't use a 'flush' product, but I drained everything, refilled with water, ran engine, and repeated the process twice to remove any 'unknown' coolant that could cause intermixing issues. A little left over water would only slightly dilute the freeze temperature.
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