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  #1  
Old 08-24-2019
ChrisRasman ChrisRasman is offline
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Default Ideal slab for Lx bird house

Hello!

I put a deposit down on a 'carport' type building, enclosed on all four sides , 16 foot walls with an over sized garage door with a 180 MPH wind rating. I am going to zoning Monday to see how hard they are going to be on me for the slab.

Zoning already told me the building would be acceptable here. Waiting on the 'as built' building blue prints from the company. They don't do slab work.

I have a concrete guy willing to do whatever I want. I am looking for an Lx or Lxi owner who may have had an engineer or knew what they were doing when they put down concrete.

I have an engineer, but this guy designs runways for a living. Last he talked to me he actually said I need 36 inches of concrete under my wheels. This is swampland. Not super soft, mainly sand. He can't go wrong there, but that's overkill I think.

I read somewhere about a bird house with poured 10 inches of 3500 psi (maybe 4500) concrete with re bar in 6 inch squares about 3 inches up from the bottom. I also have read abut a Pre-tensioning too??

Anybody care to comment on what they did for their slabs? I like to have better idea when I go to zoning and permitting. The garage is a package deal and no help with the slab.

Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2019
Bruce Bruce is online now
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10 inches is ridiculous. My shop holds a Bluebird and a 42 ft. Monaco with 6 inches and rebar . Never had a problem. If you contact a concrete redi mix sipplier they will spec it for you.
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2019
ChrisRasman ChrisRasman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
10 inches is ridiculous. My shop holds a Bluebird and a 42 ft. Monaco with 6 inches and rebar . Never had a problem. If you contact a concrete redi mix sipplier they will spec it for you.
I like. You talking 3500 PSI?
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Old 08-24-2019
ChrisRasman ChrisRasman is offline
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Sorry I get it. You mean talk to the redi mix , tell them what I am doing and see what they say.
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  #5  
Old 08-24-2019
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sfedeli sfedeli is offline
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Start with a nice, rolled bed of 2-a aggregate. 6" to 10" is fine. Then 6" of 3500 psi concrete with #5 dowel 12" on center. Use risers to keep it 3" up off the base gravel.
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  #6  
Old 08-24-2019
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfedeli View Post
Start with a nice, rolled bed of 2-a aggregate. 6" to 10" is fine. Then 6" of 3500 psi concrete with #5 dowel 12" on center. Use risers to keep it 3" up off the base gravel.
I have never seen gravel under concrete in the south,no idea why.
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  #7  
Old 08-24-2019
ChrisRasman ChrisRasman is offline
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I with Randy on this one. We have sand and water, lots of water running 12/24 inches down. That is why I think the one I heard who used 10 inches of concrete did that. A monolithic slab that can float around a little bit in one big hunk. I have seen old 4 inch slab ranchers split and open up. Cracking walls and roofs. Right now a hundred miles north of me near Tampa more sink holes are opening up. They will swallow a whole house, a neighborhood. That is not a big problem down here as we don't have as much underground limestone, but we still have lots of water, just a foot or two down. It's different down here. I am not lying when I said the civil engineer I talked to told me I needed 3 feet of concrete under the tracks. I am going to talk to another CE I know and see what he thinks. And redi mix too. I love to save a grand of concrete if I can. Thanks all.
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  #8  
Old 08-24-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisRasman View Post
I am not lying when I said the civil engineer I talked to told me I needed 3 feet of concrete under the tracks.
I'm no engineer but that seems a bit excessive.
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  #9  
Old 08-24-2019
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Default Post-tension

Post tension works great with expansive soils. Uses plastic sleeved coiled steel cables to create a lattice that’s put under high tension on all four sides, resulting in a solid piece of concrete that floats on top of shifting soils. Nearly all the big builders in TX and AZ use that method in their builds. Sounds perfect for your conditions. However, it does take special equipment and expertise to install. Here’s some info from another writeup. Watch the video and it will make perfect sense!

This excellent 7 minute video explains and shows the PT process - https://youtu.be/6ZU0y9uSlBw
Birdhouse series may also be of interest (especially post #7 & #8): https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...ad.php?t=26982
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Last edited by NoGas; 08-24-2019 at 11:22 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-25-2019
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Mallie Lennon Mallie Lennon is offline
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I think Shane has got it right. I would use a crusher run gravel base, thick enought to make it stable, and raised above the ground. I would also use a plastic vapor barrier. Minimum of 6" of of concrete with shickened Edges. Half 1/2" rebar on at least 2' centers, tied. Absolutly use steel chairs because the steel is best it is in the center of the slab, and worthless if laying on the bottom. I would use 4,000 psi concrete, because it cost very little more. I would not use fiber.
If you are planning on crawling around under the bus, you want a super slick finish, not a broom. And if possible, get sewer and water connections.
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