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HVAC, Air Conditioners, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters Questions and information about the wide variety of Heating and Air Conditioning as well as Water Heater systems available are discussed here.

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  #11  
Old 12-02-2009
gcyeaw's Avatar
gcyeaw gcyeaw is online now
Gardner
 
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Location: Ridgewood
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Bill,
Where did you tap the power for the Webasto? The Proheat has a 12 volt supply that is always on, and a separate switch that activates the unit. It is a microprocessor controled system.

Another question is; How do you keep water from entering the bay by the exhaust opennng? The Proheat appears to use this opening to bring in air for for combustion, so I need to be sure it doesn't suck in a lot of water in a rain storm.

It seems that I should skip the bypass idea until I have a season of experience. That will make it a far simpler installation up front.

All I need to do is find the tank access between the twin beds and get'r done.
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86 PT-36 Golden Memories
83FC35 SB $IXTEEN TON$ SOLD
78 FC 33 Happinest (Sold)
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2009
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
1983 FC 35 "Casa Billisa"
 
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Gardner,

From what i can tell, water does not get in there the way I have it set up. If it does, there's not much and it goes away fast.

Powered the Webasto from the house panel driver's side in bedroom. Put a new dedicated circuit breaker in a blank spot on the buss bar. Ran lines through the back of the rear compartment where the heater is located, upward and drilled through the floor at in front of the bumper (be careful lots of stuff in there and need good grommet too (split fuel line works nicely). Ran stranded 12-7 fleet wire through under the bed forward and up in back of the closet wall. Also pulled the wiring harness for the timer / switch and mounted that at the galley control panel. After wiring was in place I used fire rated foam to seal the hole.

One other thing worth mentioning. I removed all the old insulation from the loop lines front and rear and re insulated with rubber pipe insulation.

Two seasons now and so far, so good. Hope this helps.

NH Bill
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  #13  
Old 12-03-2009
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Bill,
Did you install the provided pick-up tube in the tank or was there already one there? If one was there how did you determine how long it was?
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78 FC 33 Happinest (Sold)
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  #14  
Old 12-03-2009
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
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Gardner,

The pickup tube (stand pipe) was already there. The plug was 3/8" (I think) and difficult to remove. But with a little heat and hammer action, she came loose. I think I ran a solid copper wire to the bottom and could feel the bottom edge of the stand pipe. Took that measure and then ran the wire to the bottom of the tank and the difference was 2" (If if remember right).

NH Bill
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  #15  
Old 12-04-2009
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It looks like I will get started tomorrow. Perhaps I can get all the prep work done, weather permitting. Lets hope I can pull up the carpet where the tank access is without damaging it. I have the twin bunks.

Tomorrow: Cloudy early with periods of light rain and snow later in the day. High around 40F. Winds NNE at 10 to 20 mph. Chance of precip 90%. Snowfall around one inch.
Tomorrow night: Rain and snow in the evening transitioning to snow showers late. Low around 30F. Winds NNW at 10 to 20 mph. Chance of precip 70%. Some snow accumulation possible.


I am thinking about using the small bay just in front of the rear tires on the street side. I hate to give up space in the only long bay I have. Most of the short bay is taken up by the plastic box with the dump hose. The PVC pipe that is attached to that bay is too small for the dump hose with adapters, so I should install a larger diameter pipe there and eliminate the plastic box anyway.
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Last edited by gcyeaw; 12-04-2009 at 10:04 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-05-2009
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Gardner,

I have the same problem with the dump hose being too large to fit in the factory storage "tube". I would like to modify it to take on the modern dump hose with fittings on both ends. The current storage tube is designed to take a hose with a fitting only on one end. I will take a closer look this weekend to see if I can come up with a good solution.

Glenn
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  #17  
Old 12-05-2009
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That's probably were I would put it, Gardner. Why cant you tap into the generator supply and return for fuel? Can it wind up getting starved for fuel that way?
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  #18  
Old 12-05-2009
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What a fun day, cold, rain, show. I got started anyway. I committed to use the smaller bay for the heater. The water lines run right behind it and the exhaust will exit in the same area as the generator and 3208. I decided to run the hoses out of the rear of the bay since the right side is part of the wheel well.

It is amazing how long it takes to do simple stuff alone. All those trips in and out of the coach and going to get tools takes up enormous amounts of time. I ran a few errands, went to the auto supply and got the 3/4 heater hose, fuel filter, clamps, elbows, etc. and got started around noon. Another two trips to home depot and one to the hardware store and by 5:00 I accomplished the following:

I followed the hoses to determine the correct one to tap into, and I noticed the hose at the aux pump was wet. There were green droplets on the bottom of the cover. I suspected it might have some fluid in it so I tried to be careful taking it down. Not carefully enough! I still got splashed with green antifreeze. I couldn't see the leak so I turned the pump on, sure enough, it was spraying the mount and dripping down.

I suppose these pumps can be rebuilt, but I would rather get a more modern/efficient pump to replace it.

Any suggestions??

I drilled the holes in the rear of the bay, and snapped off the bits in the hole saw twice. Then reached in and got rubber grommets in place, Not a fun job in the cold, rain-snow weather.

Then I went to work running the electrical hookups. I drilled a hole through the floor from under the kitchen cabinets above and to the rear of the bay. I drilled another hole in the bay and inserted a 1" electrical PVC 90 degree bend to protect the wires. I'll take a picture tomorrow.

I found the access for the fuel tank and it was identical to NH-Bill's installation. I checked for a stand pipe using a piece of copper wire and it was there. So I got a 3/8 brass street L and 1/4 inch hose adapter and tightened them in place. I haven't determined a route for the fuel line yet, but it should be straight forward (no pun intended).

I ran out of light, it got colder, and the snow got heavier and wetter, so that is it for today.

I shut off the shore power and shut off the battery disconnect switch and quit for the night. (my new procedure is to turn everything off unless I need power overnight. Recent events of the fire kind have lead me to take preventative measures.)

The weather for tomorrow is supposed to be better. Perhaps I will have heat by evening...
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  #19  
Old 12-05-2009
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Gardner,your a tough man!
Working in those conditions,outside and with no help.
I complain when I can't wear shorts...
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  #20  
Old 12-05-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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Gardner.. sounds like you got right into it! I'm looking forward to the pictures.
One thing to keep in mind, that may make things go smoother for you. you may know this, not sure but, Did you know that one third of a mechanics/Technicians time is spent chasing tools?
When I work on something, if I can, I'll drag my box as close as I can to the place I'm working at.
I have a small set of craftsman tools in a case that rides up in the storage pod, that I can use if I'm up there, That saves a lot of time. I also have a Tote tray ( the top of a hand carried box), that I keep the basic things in... screwdrivers wrenches a hammer etc.
BTW, unrelated... did you ever figure out what caused the wiring problem for the furnace?
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