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Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Steering and Suspensions Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Steering and Suspensions and related components.

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  #11  
Old 07-11-2009
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Crit Bliss Crit Bliss is offline
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Ours had been changed to nylon lines at the control, made installing new one much easier. Napa carry's Halydex, it is a plastic assembly instead of metal like the Bendix, works just the same, comes with new knob and pin, however.
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbokitty View Post
Like Johns my parking brake valve is a major culprit for air leaks. I can turn it one way or the other and make it stop but it really needs rebuilding. Once stopped, the coach will hold air for quite a while...
Ryan,

I wanted to give you this information over on this thread discussion on the parking brake valve, it was fairly easy to change once I got the copper fittings loose on it.

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Originally Posted by iamflagman View Post
I found the Bendix PP-1 Valve Control Part #276567N (NEW) $44.00 at Fleetpride, they had them in stock along with the Yellow button and pin kit which was additional $$. The hardest part was getting the copper lines removed from the ports in the valve after I had loosened the fitting nut and slid it down the copper line and out of the way, I had to wiggle the copper line pretty good with my hand to loosen them, then it was just a matter of removing the valve itself, transferring the fittings and plug over to the new valve and re-install the valve, getting the pin to start in the new button and valve shaft was a bit of a challenge with my Don Knots "Nervous Man On The Street" shaking hands but I finally finished with the channel lock pliers as was suggested. On my 'Bird I had plenty of room to work on the valve while it was still in the dash.
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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As Randy said, Channellocks work great for installing the pin. If I have room, I drive the old pin out with a small drift punch.
I have also used the channel locks for removing the pin too. I find a small 1/4 drive socket that's just a little larger than the pin diameter, and a roll pin or something just smaller than the pin. I place the smaller pin on the exsisting pin, and the socket over the exsisting pin, on the other side, then I press the pin out with the channel locks, and the pin will fall inside the socket.
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2009
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Thanks for the info John!
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  #15  
Old 11-17-2009
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I took some inspiration from John and decided to replace my hissing parking brake valve too. The installation was a little different on my PT however. There is a 2-wire low-air sensor on the valve body and an additional air line- which I suspect shuts down the high idle when you release the brake. I've attached pics below. Meritor Part # R955276567N was an exact match for my old valve- but has a release pressure of 40# instead of 30#. I'm also trying to find a new alarm switch that comes on at 60# instead of 30# like the old one. I like to know a little earlier than most when I'm going to have a problem. The Meritor valve comes with a black knob and new roller pin. The shaft is around 7/8" thick and also came with a new nut. List price was around $26.00 at Mid Atlantic Gear in Harrisburg, PA.
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  #16  
Old 11-17-2009
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Default Disassembly and cleaning

Just out of curiosity, I removed all of the fittings on the old valve and took it apart to see how it worked. Turns out that the valves are pretty simple and could be cleaned and salvaged in a pinch- but replacing with a new one is a pretty cheap option and should be done when possible to ensure safe operation.

I've posted photos of the Parking Brake valve components to assist anyone who would like to simply replace the worn o-rings and clean the unit. Having the right size o-rings is key. A second important consideration is the condition of the spring and its tension. A rusted spring could fail and result in the coach brakes deploying unexpectedly. When I took apart my valve, there was some rust on the valve shaft, but the spring was in good shape. The springs will tend to weaken over time and the end result would be one's ability to release the brakes before adequate pressure had built in the system.

As you can see from the photos- the o-ring had a flat surface and there was a large amount of gunk that had accumulated in the valve over the past 24 years.
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  #17  
Old 1 Week Ago
Ilulissat Ilulissat is offline
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On my 79 FC the parking brake valve seemed to be leaking as I would set the parking brake after driving. It would make some hissing sounds as I engaged it and I could hear some leaking after turning off the motor. This has been going on for a couple of weeks. On Monday I started the bus to relocate it into a new indoor storage facility in Chattanooga and the parking brake would not release. Both air pressure gauges would not build above 25 lbs, they normally read 120 lbs. Is it possible that a leak on the parking brake valve would cause this problem?
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  #18  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Highly unlikely to be the parking brake maxi button. If your coach is only building to 25psi, this would suggest a major air leak in the system... possibly in the compressor, main line, air dryer or wet tank.

Check the purge valve on the wet tank to ensure it's sealing. It could also be the purge valve on the air dryer.

I find it helpful to air the coach up with an electric compressor so I can hear air leaking, if a leak exists... especially after the bus has been sitting for a while.
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  #19  
Old 1 Week Ago
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dryer purge valve or other leaks that i cannot hear easy
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  #20  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Parking brake dash valve does go bad and leak, time to replace it
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