Fuel drain on PT36

[sfedeli]

Have a helper hold a shop-vac hose on the fill neck, use some duct tape if needed to seal up. It should pull a nice vacuum-you only need a few pounds- and reduce the head pressure at the plug. The plug you speak of should be 1/2" mpt or 3/8" mpt. Cast iron ones are available at every Lowe's and Home Depot in the small plastic bags. I remove mine annually and drain around 1 gallon of fuel to get the rust and sludge (if any) out of the tank. I use my thumb and some long gloves and usually get sprayed pretty good. Wear goggles and a sweatshirt that you use only for such occasions

[dave.mills]

Shane,
I'm headed for Lowes now! I was wondering if the shop vac could pull enough pressure. Thanks. Hopefully, I'll post results later today.

[Fujimo]

David a shop vacuum will be fine, it may actually lift fuel, have helper assistance, work fast good luck. Have everything ready to tape fittings wrench pliers catch can.

[bloomas]

I have change out the same valve using nothing but an oil change pan.You will lose very
little fuel that is if you have everything ready to go.

[dackerman]

David,

See if you can get an extra helper to shoot video of the operation.

[Dieselbird01]

Originally Posted by dave.mills

Rick,
Thanks. I already tried plugging it with a product called leak-n-place unsuccessfully. And the tank goes on reserve at 30 gallons so I'd have to drive and use up 270 gallon before it gets there. And then at that point if I tried to replace the valve, I think almost as much would leak out as if as if the tank were full. I tried to think of other temporary solutions (like bubble gum), but haven't come up with any. The diesel fuel actively leaking seems to destroy any type of plug I try to put in there. if I could temporarily stop the leak and get it dry, I know I could patch it then.I'm may try rigging up some kind of a vacuum situation myself. Thanks again for all the ideas.

Last winter I helped a fellow WOG member plug a rust hole in the bottom of the collection box on his Bird. His fuel leak was a steady stream that had to be stopped ASAP before it became an EPA problem so we sanded the rust and paint off the bad spot while fuel ran down our arms and then with fuel still running out we used JB Weld "Water Weld" Product No 8277 to patch the hole. I used a rare earth magnet to hold it in place until it hardened but it sealed the leak just fine... still holding a year later.

[gcyeaw]

Have a tapered round wooden plug available in the event something goes wrong, like the valve snaps when removing or you just can't get the new one threaded. Make sure the plug is tapered to a point that will fit the internal part of the plug thread piece. It is pretty tough to get out the old pen knife and make one with one thumb blocking the leak.

[Jeff]

I had the same problem with the little drain valve at the bottom of the tank.

So, I bought a replacement shut of valve of the right size (had 275 gals. onboard). So I remove the valve ready to put in a new one. Huh, on the end of the drain valve is a 6"+ cooper tube. I am at this point committed and fuel is gushing out the hole at a great rate (275 gals. of pressure at the bottom of the tank). So's I's put it all the way out and put the newly prepared (will fuel sealer (tape)) drain valve IN. IT GOT A LITTLE MESSY AND I LOST ABOUT 1 GAL. OF FUEL.

In my case it was, once the drain valve was unthreaded, pull it out quick (lose a gal.) and carefully thread the new drain valve in. No pipe on the new drain valve. I've still got the old one somewhere for memories.
But it sure was a surprise when I found a tube (copper) on the end of the drain valve and I'm a just pulling, no knowing if it is all coming out or I;m in big trouble and got to put the leaky valve back in.

[dave.mills]

All,

I tested the shop vac before I went to the store. I sealed it really good, too good - with some regrets. When I turned on the vac, the tank buckled very loudly - at least trying to implode. I had it on for only a couple of seconds and did hear the fuel slooshing. I think I'll poke a few holes in the duct tape with an ice pick, and have a partner ( as suggested ) turn it on as I open the drain valve for a quick test to see if it holds okay and yet does not try to implode the tank. Then add more ice pick holes if needed.

I'll make the wooden dowel as a temporary precaution. And probably get the JB Weld to coat the dowel just in case. The current drain is brass and I suspect it will come out easily enough. I'm not sure now when this production will occur as I will need a neighbor's assistance, but I'll report back after I do it.

[sfedeli]

You're not going to implode the tank.... just pucker it a little... unless you have a BINFORD shop vac I have pressurized mine a few times with air to prime the new fuel lines and racor assembly. You will normally hear a loud BOOM when you alter the atmospheric pressure.