M380 dual-slide owners at Q 2016

[DonB]

I've communicated with Joe Garner about the possibility of his pulling the programming from a working M380 rear-slide module, as he has done for the front slide. He assures me he can do it, so what is needed is a volunteer who a) has a working rear slide M380 and b) will be at Q 2016.

My computer is kaput, as has happened to many others. The modules have the seal still around them, which is not supposed to be there and inhibits air flow - see thumbnail image for details. I was contemplating going an all-relay fix, but if it can be programmed I would rather do that, and I certainly will remove the seals!

In any case, I think it would be great if he has all the programs recorded for future use.

[DonB]

Those paper wrapping sheets are clearly labeled: "1. Do not remove this protective sheet until installation and wiring are completed. 2. Remove this sheet before operation to enable heat to escape for proper cooling."

[curtsprenger]

11 M380s on the Q Participant list. That should keep Joe busy for a while.

[NoGas]

Don - you got a volunteer. Assume there's no risk to the "donor" system. Wouldn't want to mess everything up now that it's finally working as it should. With my new motor, upgraded slightly higher amped converter and an inline on/off switch, slide has never worked so well - can you hear me knocking on that wood?

Planning to arrive 15th or 16th & will be there for the main week. Glad to hear you guys are coming.

[DonB]

Thanks, Van, but we still aren''t going to be there. I will have to work out with Joe how to bet mine fixed.

I don't imagine there is anything that will harm the "donor" vehicle.

Did you remove the wrap from your PLCs?

[NoGas]

Ok, have Joe get in touch with me. Don't see wrap you're talking about, so they must have followed the instructions on mine. However, now with my simple on/off switch between the converter plug & GFCI outlet, 99% of the time everything is not powered up so there's very little heat buildup anyway.
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[konehd]

Originally Posted by NoGas

Ok, have Joe get in touch with me. Don't see wrap you're talking about, so they must have followed the instructions on mine. However, now with my simple on/off switch between the converter plug & GFCI outlet, 99% of the time everything is not powered up so there's very little heat buildup anyway.
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Great! We should get in ~the 15th. Planning on a run home to get stuff anyway so will pick up the cables and laptop with programming software then. We can do it next week...

CU@Q!

Thanks, Joe

[DonB]

I've passed along to Joe that you have volunteered, thanks. (Edit: I see he posted while I was typing this, thanks Joe!)

Your PLC wrap is definitely gone, impossible to know if it was done at build, or sometime later. I find the I/O board differences interesting, though.

In the image below, yours is on the right, and mine on the left. The boards are setup for 4 slides, with the connectors (including the one on the back that connects to the PLCs) are there for the top two. In my case they used the second one down, and on yours they used the top one. Somebodies choice that day, I suppose. The Red Cat5 cable that is White on yours is the lock sensors, and the Yellow Cat5 carries the signals from the three limit switches.

But look at the upper right. The 12-wire cable goes to the control panel in the bedroom. I'm not sure what the 8-wire connection in the green connector goes to yet, but yours actually looks like there are a lot fewer wires going to it?

Your lower connector to the "Misc Ext Inputs" is disconnected, not sure if there is a reason?

[DonB]

I mapped out all of the connections to the PLCs this evening and disconnected/pulled them. I'm going to try to get them down to Joe before Q so he can find out if they will take a program, or have to be replaced. New ones are $209 each, but there are a lot of used ones on E-Bay that claim to be good when pulled.

[NoGas]

Don - The pic I posted was taken back in Nov when I first started having slide problems. The disconnected Misc Ext connector you mentioned was showing the detached black wire that I found & reconnected, and which I thought had corrected my problem. It didn't of course but a new motor and converter did

By the way, thanks for the detailed Hurricane info in this post: http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...ad.php?t=20228. Since we're now using the H (all 3 zones ) & it's likely zero maintenance has EVER been done on it, a slow leak developed. So I'll be pulling the H box and following in your footsteps after Q. May have some questions for you then. And if you have any tips or gotchas on this job I'm all ears!