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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #11  
Old 12-22-2018
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Could it be a bad slack adjuster.
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  #12  
Old 12-22-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birds_first View Post
Could it be a bad slack adjuster.
380s have disc brakes,and i'm not sure how the slacks work.
Jim B will know.
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  #13  
Old 12-23-2018
marvjeanm380 marvjeanm380 is online now
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1. Prevost Car Inc
800 S Cartwright St
Goodlettsville, TN 37072

(615) 299-8881
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  #14  
Old 12-23-2018
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It has been 4 years since they first introduced themselves on WOG, but Rick Davis used them once and checked them out and he was happy with them. The owner is a former Buddy Gregg man and knows Birds.

http://easttennesseeluxurycoach.com/
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2018
Jim Brookshire Jim Brookshire is offline
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Jim B never had a problem with them, so he doesn’t know anything about them. I think there is a good chance Gary Hoover might know As he had issues with his rear brakes and rotors.
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  #16  
Old 12-24-2018
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I had an occasion where "for all the wrong reasons' the brakes got too hot. Blue smoke curled from both wheel wells. It wasn't long before I had the floating side of one caliper stick and eat a disc. Upon repair I found melted rubber covers and the slide lubricant was 'cooked' off. My guess of things that create smoke when too hot.
Total rebuild, pads, rotors (which require new hubs unless you can source OEM disc), all rubber pieces, etc.
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  #17  
Old 12-24-2018
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Your rotors are probably fine. I had to replace mine because of the metal to metal score. Rotors are allowed some cracking, refer to a repair manual that has photos to determine.
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  #18  
Old 12-24-2018
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Default HEAT > Hot > Smoke > Fire > Big $$$

My points below won’t help your current “somethun’s smoking” question, but part of a new owners learning curve involves figuring out how to deal with HEAT...

Again, refer to the links I provided above to see what cooked brakes look like. A link to the manual Garry references is there, as is the saga of how I fixed that mess. As mentioned, it is my belief that my PO had no clue as to how to drive the coach and he did severe damage when he drove it like a car. The HEAT he created cooked the pads, melted caliper seals, cracked rotors and also melted the ball joint boots and bearing seals . It was an expensive project for a then new owner (me). The up side is ever since I’ve known I have NEW brakes should I need them. Also, we have LOTS of “hills” out West so I learned how the 18-wheeler gang handles them and have followed their lead ever since.

How are you driving your coach? New M380 owners quickly figure out that on the flats it will easily go as fast as you ask - 75, 80, 85, more? But doing that creates HEAT in the bearings and seals. My pace is slower and that’s by design. In the project above, I discovered the hubs were “screwed on” too tight by Meritor and that created even more HEAT. How are you stopping? Again, jack rabbit starts, and then stops with only the brakes create HEAT. The engine doesn’t like pedal-to-the-metal much. Sure, it will do what you ask but there may be consequences (lots of threads here on the WOG about that ). How about going down big grades? Has your coach Engine Braking system been modified to engage in something other than 4th gear? Repeatedly braking at 75 or more to get down to 50 (where 4th gear Engine Braking can safely be engaged) creates HEAT. Some use EB and others (like JimB) don’t, and that’s a whole other discussion. When you apply the brakes, how do you do it? By that I mean trucker style or continuously like some car drivers? One gives HEAT a chance to disappate, the other doesn’t. Again, disappating HEAT is the name of the game - for the engine when accelerating or climbing, and for the brakes AND engine (if you use EB when slowing).

Lastly, you should add a TPMS system if you don’t have one. I wish BB had added brake temp gauges (see pic below). They didn’t, so I keep an eye on tire temps using my TST TPMS. Not nearly as accurate for the brakes and there is a delay, however something is better than nothing.

Back to your regularly scheduled program ...
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Brookshire View Post
Jim B never had a problem with them, so he doesn’t know anything about them. I think there is a good chance Gary Hoover might know As he had issues with his rear brakes and rotors.

I thought you might have an idea on how the slack adjusters worked on the disc brakes,i know you have had the fronts off,what did they use?
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2018
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Brake temp gauges,now thats an interesting thought.
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