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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #61  
Old 10-01-2012
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John Wyatt – Administrator/Moderator
 
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Originally Posted by LarryKehler View Post
Thanks for all the help on the manifold.
The correct part number and casting number was as previously listed as #5143916

After calling six different used parts houses, I went with the ebay listing. A new surplus manifold for $221. Less than the used parts I found all over the midwest. Most of the used manifolds would require resurfacing the sellers told me, which I interpeted as "really used and likely burned". One salvage yard even tried to sell me one that "had a small piece broken off but could be welded up just fine"

A new manifold from Clarke Power, my local DD dealer was $579 plus shipping and would take two weeks!

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. WOG really gets the job done
Hi Larry,

Hopefully this doesn’t apply to the Manifold you ordered but in order to save you some time if it does, I want to mention that some configurations of the 05143916 Manifold, need a cap, a gasket and a couple of bolts to cover an unused port.

Mike Sprinkel ordered the parts for his coach and my coach so hopefully Mike will fill in the missing part numbers.

1 - Port cap/cover
1 - Port cap/cover gasket
2 - Port cap/cover bolts
2 - Lock washers
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  #62  
Old 10-01-2012
LarryKehler LarryKehler is offline
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John
Thanks for the update. The picture of the manifold I ordered does show that blank and it looks solid. I can just wait and hope thats the one that shows up with UPS.
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  #63  
Old 10-01-2012
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Originally Posted by LarryKehler View Post
John
Thanks for the update. The picture of the manifold I ordered does show that blank and it looks solid. I can just wait and hope thats the one that shows up with UPS.
If not, PM me and I'll get the part numbers.

MnM
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  #64  
Old 02-25-2013
ejallison1 ejallison1 is offline
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Am finishing the exhaust manifold gaskets and wanted to add some info for anyone else doing this project. I have a manual that was revised and published in 1986 so this may not be pertinent to later year models. Manual states that the studs should be torqued to 25-40 foot/lbs. Don't know exactly how you would measure that since there is no flat spot on the stud bolt to get a wrench on-I used vice grips and ran it in as far as possible. Be careful not to booger up the threads.
The torque value for the nuts are listed as 30-35 foot/lbs. The washers are in the shape of a wok and the crown of the washer should be against the nut.
The metal gaskets have a raised embossed area around each hole on one side and is smooth on the other side. According to the book the side of the gasket with the raised area should go next to the engine block and the smooth side to the exhaust manifold.
Kind of redundant to ask now but I put a little high temp RTV with copper in it around each hole on the gaset to help seal it-think there is any harm in that?
When tightening the nuts make sure you tighten each one just a little and then go on to the next.-much like a tire-so you don't put a crack in them. Although I didn't have any mishaps putting them back on I did have a crack on the ends of both manifolds after taking them off (see previous pic). I really don't know if a crack was already there (I didn't notice one) or if I didn't back off the nuts evenly and ended up cracking it myself. At any rate had to order new used ones from Shafco. (web address in earlier post this thread)
And as already mentioned make sure the manifold is sitting on top of those bosses!
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