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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #11  
Old 06-10-2012
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I like how the kids scatter and the experianced guy walks over all calm and shuts her down
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  #12  
Old 06-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Mehr View Post
I like how the kids scatter and the experianced guy walks over all calm and shuts her down

The kids scattered, but only AFTER he attempted to cut off the air source with the object that wasn't sturdy enough and started to get sucked into the intake, so at least he was prepared and tried. A person has to learn what to do and he used what he had available, until the experienced guy used what appears to be a piece of wood that couldn't be sucked in, but it didn't appear to be wide enough to cover the intake hole that still allowed air in, that he eventually covered with the second rag.
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  #13  
Old 06-10-2012
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John, Another thing I noticed was how black the exhaust turned after the 2 X was placed on the intake. Not enough air for the fuel. Kind of like dirty air filters when they become colgged.
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  #14  
Old 06-10-2012
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Yes I the kid scatered after the atemted to cover the intake then droped the thing on metal or what ever it was on the floor and ran. The he told gramps that it got sucked into the intake. When gramps watchess the vid. Im shure he will get a kick out of it
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  #15  
Old 06-10-2012
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John That thing Ernie is talking about shuts off the air supply to the engine.The next time I go over to my bird ill take a picture
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  #16  
Old 06-10-2012
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Couple of points about the video I posted.

First, that was a 4v71 (4 cylinders - 71 cubic inches), NA, (naturally aspirated). Most of ours are either 6V92T or 8V92T (6 or 8 cylinders, 92 CI, Turbocharged) If yours is a TA, it's also After-cooled.

The difference is considerable. WAY more suction through the intake if it runs away. If you don't have the air cleaner connected, and you are not expecting trouble, either of them can suck your hand far enough into it to mangle your fingers.

If you do what Gramps did in the video, you will need a SUBSTANTIAL piece of something, 3/4" plywood, 1" shelving board or something similar, to shut it down without sucking it into the intake.

If you do have to shut it down with the emergency shutoff, you have about a 50/50 chance of ruining the blower seals. You need to check them BEFORE you restart. If you don't, and the seals are shot, when the engine starts it will suck oil through the seals & feed the engine. That oil replaces the need for fuel. It also has a lot more BTU per gallon. Once the engine gets a snoot full of 40 wt., it will run away again but with much more power & authority. You MAY be able to shut it down before it starts ejecting internal parts through various freshly made exit ports in the block & oil pan. Then again, you may not. If you ever are in the area of one of these types of mishaps, you will NEVER FORGET IT!! Don't ask me how I know.

Like I said, it's nice to have somebody who knows what the heck they are doing to teach you when to run!

If you have a 2-stroke, you should try the emergency shut down WHILE THE ENGINE IS AT IDLE periodically to make sure it works correctly. That will do two things. One, you will know it works, two, you will learn how to reset it.

TOM
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  #17  
Old 06-10-2012
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With my prior 6v, I could pull the lever back on top of engine for shut down. I never tried the cable. I'll check on my 8v mechanical to see if I have the same set up. What about the electronically controlled engines? I'll probably never have one, though
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  #18  
Old 06-11-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmansax View Post
Couple of points about the video I posted.

First, that was a 4v71 (4 cylinders - 71 cubic inches), NA, (naturally aspirated). Most of ours are either 6V92T or 8V92T (6 or 8 cylinders, 92 CI, Turbocharged) If yours is a TA, it's also After-cooled.

The difference is considerable. WAY more suction through the intake if it runs away. If you don't have the air cleaner connected, and you are not expecting trouble, either of them can suck your hand far enough into it to mangle your fingers.

If you do what Gramps did in the video, you will need a SUBSTANTIAL piece of something, 3/4" plywood, 1" shelving board or something similar, to shut it down without sucking it into the intake.

If you do have to shut it down with the emergency shutoff, you have about a 50/50 chance of ruining the blower seals. You need to check them BEFORE you restart. If you don't, and the seals are shot, when the engine starts it will suck oil through the seals & feed the engine. That oil replaces the need for fuel. It also has a lot more BTU per gallon. Once the engine gets a snoot full of 40 wt., it will run away again but with much more power & authority. You MAY be able to shut it down before it starts ejecting internal parts through various freshly made exit ports in the block & oil pan. Then again, you may not. If you ever are in the area of one of these types of mishaps, you will NEVER FORGET IT!! Don't ask me how I know.

Like I said, it's nice to have somebody who knows what the heck they are doing to teach you when to run!

If you have a 2-stroke, you should try the emergency shut down WHILE THE ENGINE IS AT IDLE periodically to make sure it works correctly. That will do two things. One, you will know it works, two, you will learn how to reset it.

TOM
Good advice. Now before I pull it how do I reset it???
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  #19  
Old 06-13-2012
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Any got apicture on what to do to reset it?
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  #20  
Old 06-13-2012
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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I was going to get a pic of mine & post it but I keep getting home too late.

On any turbo charged 2 stroke, the shut down will be between the turbo & the blower. MY PT is on the road side. Mine is cable controlled so it has one spring loaded lever that the cable is attached to, fitting into a notch or groove on another lever that moves the internal flap. The one for the flap has a rod on one end used to move the flap back to the run position. Shove the cable back to the run position from the drivers seat first. Then use the rod to rotate the flap back to the run position. It is spring loaded also, so there will be some resistance. Once the flap in in the run position, the cable lever will set down into the notch or groove to hold the flap open until you pull the cable again.

I'm sorry this isn't a very good explanation. It's tough without a picture to look at.

TOM
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